Building my first walk on trailer smoker

  • Some of the links on this forum allow SMF, at no cost to you, to earn a small commission when you click through and make a purchase. Let me know if you have any questions about this.
SMF is reader-supported. When you buy through links on our site, we may earn an affiliate commission.
Ideally, you will want the set-up to be such that it is always “tongue heavy” with the cg slightly forward of the trailer axel center line. Some builders place the cooker in the back and then try to use “ballast” (wood baskets, grills, sinks, coolers, steel plate, water tanks, etc) forward to attain the proper cg. I am not a proponent of using ballast as there are a lot of variables that can be stacked up to create unsafe conditions at highway speeds.
 
  • Like
Reactions: JC in GB
Ideally, you will want the set-up to be such that it is always “tongue heavy” with the cg slightly forward of the trailer axel center line. Some builders place the cooker in the back and then try to use “ballast” (wood baskets, grills, sinks, coolers, steel plate, water tanks, etc) forward to attain the proper cg. I am not a proponent of using ballast as there are a lot of variables that can be stacked up to create unsafe conditions at highway speeds.
I usually haul most things (if i can help it) "tounge heavy" but i wasnt sure cause it seem like everyone was trying to load the back and off the side. Thank you for clarifying. So my next question is do i have to worry about the fire box being in farther? Or is that also just something silly people do like having the smoker farther back and trying to balance it?
 
I can’t answer why, suspect it might have to do with trying to keep the cooker lower by hanging the box over the end? Guess as long as the trailer is pulled on straight and wide pavement and there is never a situation calling for an emergency maneuver, they can get by with it. Personally, I have had properly loaded trailers get squirrelly, trust me, it is an experience that will put fresh racing stripes in your boxers every time..so why make it easier for something bad to happen? In my humble opinion, considering all of the things you will deal with to put out good product, a properly designed firebox setting forward on a well balanced trailer is not really a problem.
 
I can’t answer why, suspect it might have to do with trying to keep the cooker lower by hanging the box over the end? Guess as long as the trailer is pulled on straight and wide pavement and there is never a situation calling for an emergency maneuver, they can get by with it. Personally, I have had properly loaded trailers get squirrelly, trust me, it is an experience that will put fresh racing stripes in your boxers every time..so why make it easier for something bad to happen? In my humble opinion, considering all of the things you will deal with to put out good product, a properly designed firebox setting forward on a well balanced trailer is not really a problem.
Understood. Yea i know how it can be hauling. used to haul cars outta the auction on 45ft wedge trailers with and f450. It dont take long for things to get crazy quick. Especially when axle bearings go out. My last question before i send you the new design is should how worried should i be with all that weight off to one side. And all that weight on them bearings. Should i try to ballest the other side with my water tank?
 
Axels will handle it fine, but it will put the center of gravity way over to one side, something that could make any sudden unintended swerves to avoid skunks sleeping in the middle of the road far too exciting. Have you considered mounting the smoker parallel and a bit in front of the axels?
 
Axels will handle it fine, but it will put the center of gravity way over to one side, something that could make any sudden unintended swerves to avoid skunks sleeping in the middle of the road far too exciting. Have you considered mounting the smoker parallel and a bit in front of the axels?
But i want to walk onto it and dont wanna waste any space . if it was mounted parallel it would have to be all the way forward so space isnt wasted. The other problem with that is the cooking chamber by itself is 7.5ft long not including the firebox.
 
Ok guys so i got the tank today. 7.5ft long 30in dia. It was an old propane tank but was also used in its second life as a used oil tank. Wasnt too sure if that was ok for cooking because im not sure it can be cleaned out completly. (Aka burning all the oil out) but the guy gave it to me for free cause he was cleaning up the yard and wanted it gone. Any recommendations to clean it out and would doing a couple burns in it clean out the last of the oil residue? I figured purple power, 3100psi pressure washer and a couple 600°f burns but im not sure...
 
If it was used as a waste oil tank, it more than likely has been purged of any residual propane. As with almost any oil, trace residue can be burned out. Don't be surprised if there is a bunch of rust inside. Waste oil typically has moisture in it and there is a good chance it collected some rain water as well. Collect any free flowing residual oil and dispose of properly. Then you can go a couple directions.
One is simply dump a couple three gallons of mineral spirits in and agitate the heck out of it, rinse and repeat until sludge is gone. If you don't have away to suspend the tank to agitate or are worried about messing with spirits, simply dump a jug of dawn dish soap in, fill wth water and cut open. (Not a great option if you don't have ability to dispose of oily water.). Once you have the tank opened, wipe down residual oil with spirits and then burn it out. Also, see if you can find out how long tank was used as a waste oil vessel. If it was more than 30 years ago, you will want to test for lead and pcb residue. Either way, try to get it as clean as possible before burning, used motor oil burns dirty and produces a lot of soot that is a pia to clean.
 
  • Like
Reactions: TheCowboyNation1977
If it was used as a waste oil tank, it more than likely has been purged of any residual propane. As with almost any oil, trace residue can be burned out. Don't be surprised if there is a bunch of rust inside. Waste oil typically has moisture in it and there is a good chance it collected some rain water as well. Collect any free flowing residual oil and dispose of properly. Then you can go a couple directions.
One is simply dump a couple three gallons of mineral spirits in and agitate the heck out of it, rinse and repeat until sludge is gone. If you don't have away to suspend the tank to agitate or are worried about messing with spirits, simply dump a jug of dawn dish soap in, fill wth water and cut open. (Not a great option if you don't have ability to dispose of oily water.). Once you have the tank opened, wipe down residual oil with spirits and then burn it out. Also, see if you can find out how long tank was used as a waste oil vessel. If it was more than 30 years ago, you will want to test for lead and pcb residue. Either way, try to get it as clean as possible before burning, used motor oil burns dirty and produces a lot of soot that is a pia to clean.
i guess imma try the spirits. Thats alot of good spirts to use tho. I guess its needed for such a large tank. Do you think i should burn multiple times? Clean and burn and repeat? Im not sure just how much steel absorbs.
 
Great now you have to watch out for the wild life activist. :emoji_wink: :emoji_laughing:

Warren
Hell even they dont poke around cause its wild county out here lol. But on another note this dam smoker plan has changed like 6 times already. I have found kmmamm is right about this trailer build and i really need to finish the smoker first. Cause now ive learned about insulated fireboxes so now it will change design again. My next question is more or less id there is a good website better describing the advantages and disadvantages between tuning plate, reverse flow, and traditional. Its getting really confusing cause one guy says one is better then the next says this is better then and so on and so forth. Can someone give me a simpler version of all this mess. My experience is with a traditional open smoker with stack at the top of smoker opposite of firebox. (Which was inside the cc) And it cooked so well. But i want something that gives the best even cook across the cc without being super restrictive. I want really good airflow and im spending alot of time worrying about airflow and efficiency.
 
That's one of the things with the forum a lot of the group thinks that their way is the only way and all else is wrong. You have to figure out which is best for you. The video smokin peachey sent is a good one.

Warren

Couldn’t have said it any better myself Warren. That’s the great thing you can go your own way and do things how you want to do them.
Lots of good info here on the forum but sometimes you gotta filter through the BS!
 
  • Like
Reactions: flatbroke
Hello im new here and i would like some feedback on my floorplans for my build. All and any is apreciated. I also will have a bunch more design plans in the future uploded and ideas being drawn out.
Cowboy
Looks to me like balance of trailer might have to much weight rear load which might cause tongue to want to raise, which might cause a problem when towing. Though looks like you might have axle far enough back. Not sure how that will effect towing and or swaying.
Thats petty much the hardest part is balance for towing.
 
SmokingMeatForums.com is reader supported and as an Amazon Associate, we may earn commissions from qualifying purchases.

Latest posts

Hot Threads

Clicky