Big Chief smoker mods

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CanuckBob

Newbie
Original poster
Jun 24, 2020
12
4
Ajijic, Jalisco, Mexico
Just picked up my new Big Chief. First things I did was add a thermometer, a daisy wheel vent and a chimney. I live in Mexico where the BC runs too hot. Increased air flow helps to cool it down.
 

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Condensate on the meat makes for "acid rain" on the meat... Condensate is not good.... It also dissolves the pellicle....
Use a SCR to control the heat... Same principle as a rheostat.... Silicon Controlled Rectifier...

voltage conroller 001.JPG
SCR 001.JPG
 
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CanuckBob,
What temps are you running the smoker at for Salmon? I would consider using a Auber PID controller which allows you to set desired temps with desired times. That's what I use with my Big Chief.

Oh and welcome to SMF.
 
How did the Salmon smoke turn out? How long did you brine it and then how long to smoke it? Pics of finish product? What wood flavor did you use?
 
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Not trying to hi jack this thread but this, is what I used and liked it. when I was using the big chief.
Topic #10 is a excellent video.

 
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Another idea to consider, especially when you do a lot of meat and when the ambient temp is a little on the low side, is to install a higher rated heating element. I believe the stock element is 400 watts. I installed an element from a Proctor Silex stove top which is rated 1000w.
You might also consider wrapping the Chief with a insulated wrap or blanket since it is not insulated.
 
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I ran it without water in the pan as advised above. Made sense. I smoked at 125 to 150 for 5 hours. I gave it 4 pans of applewood. Turned out perfect. Better job than my old smoker for sure.
 
This has seen several mods.. including the burner....

Totem Smoker.jpeg

Burner with the thermostat installed ..
The Red light lets me know when the burner
kicks on and off.....

Burner Mod.JPG
 
Cool. Looks like that has seen a few miles. My problem here in Mexico is it runs too hot. From the factory I did a test burn and it was nearly 250f. After the mods I can keep it around 125 to 150 with the added air flow and the rheostat on the power cord
 
Well, I installed the 1000 Watt+ burner when I moved to Eastern Washington... I tried smoking Columbia River salmon at -20F... Hold my beer while I fix this smoker....
They smoke fish better than any smoker I've tried... It's over 30 years old...
I even hauled it to Alaska to use on the Purse Seiner I fished on... Smoked lots of fresh Alaska salmon...
 
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...Use a SCR to control the heat...
I recognize that unit DaveOmak!...I've bought a couple of those on ebay myself! They're OK but they do tend to be quite "aggressively" spec'ed and need quite a bit of air cooling to reach even a fraction of their rated power. But still much cheaper than a rheostat of the same rating.

Love hearing your stories about Alaska and smoking in -20F weather.
 
Yes, aggressively spec'd... I use the 4,000 watt unit to control ~1,000 watt appliances.... Been in use for 3-4 years and still working... Main use for me is... Controlling electric cookware... I have an elec. deep fryer I use for slow cooking and control the element so it doesn't come on full blast to raise the temp 5 deg. when the stat calls for it... NICE !!!!
 
... in use for 3-4 years and still working...
That's pretty good. I think they're basically the circuitry of a 600W rotary wall dimmer switch but with better cooling (ie cooling fin and holes in chassis) while being a couple bucks cheaper.
And I see that for the princely sum of $13 the same unit can now be had, shipped to your door, with a fairly nicely integrated muffin fan. Still rated 4000W, implying you needed at least that amount of forced air cooling to achieve anywhere near the claimed specs before. For someone wanting a simple (non-thermostatic) control of a 1500W element on a 120V/15A circuit, it's hard to beat the price and simplicity.
 
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