Berkel slicers

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archeryrob

Smoking Fanatic
Original poster
Oct 26, 2015
694
287
Western Maryland
Anyone very familiar with these slicers? I got a good deal on a Berkel 827 slicer which looked to be used at a deli or something somewhere. It runs great, smooth slide and everything. The top of the blade is open. It is exactly like this one that is missing the sharpener and blade cover.
s-l1600.jpg


They want darn near as I paid for the slicer for a sharpening assembly which I can't be sure even fits this unit. I know your hands should not be anywhere near the top, but the wife is not buying that. I was thinking of fabbing a bracket with 1" angle cut to rest over the top of the left side that recesses and up even with the blade guard. There is a bracket and bolt post behind the blade I could mount that on. She's not liking the idea of an iron black oil seasoned bracket on a stainless slicer, but I'm just would be happy for everyone to keep all their finger.


Thoughts?
 
Anyone very familiar with these slicers? I got a good deal on a Berkel 827 slicer which looked to be used at a deli or something somewhere. It runs great, smooth slide and everything. The top of the blade is open. It is exactly like this one that is missing the sharpener and blade cover.
s-l1600.jpg


They want darn near as I paid for the slicer for a sharpening assembly which I can't be sure even fits this unit. I know your hands should not be anywhere near the top, but the wife is not buying that. I was thinking of fabbing a bracket with 1" angle cut to rest over the top of the left side that recesses and up even with the blade guard. There is a bracket and bolt post behind the blade I could mount that on. She's not liking the idea of an iron black oil seasoned bracket on a stainless slicer, but I'm just would be happy for everyone to keep all their finger.


Thoughts?
Ironically, I just bought one Friday from a guy that got it from a church that rarely ever used it. You about need to people to move it. The parts are expensive no matter where you look but they are like a hobart. I am not convinced you need the sharpener piece to successfully slice stuff. Different story for guards and plates, wouldnt mess with that.....
 
I can sharpen it with stones myself. I am concerned with someone touching the blade there. Should I be?

It’s dull now, I assume once sharp it will stay sharp a while slicing my game over the years
 
I can sharpen it with stones myself. I am concerned with someone touching the blade there. Should I be?

It’s dull now, I assume once sharp it will stay sharp a while slicing my game over the years

I sliced roast beef today and with your hands on the meat holder and the L-shaped slide you should never come in contact up there. I would NEVER have anyone else to your right or behind that machine either, but you know that......

I think once you put an edge on that blade you will be OK for a long time. I slided bread today cleaned it and then shaved a bottom round for roast beef sandwiches. If you are doing periodic things like that you will get YEARS out of a single blade. What else I loved is that it is so heavy the machine never moved and the depth of the cut never waivered. Some cheaper machines BOTH of those issues arise all the time.

Tony
 
I went and made the guard yesterday from 1” angle. Cut a short piece of 1” for the back with a hole and welded it together and ground it presentable and clean. I just oil blackened it after getting back from hunting in the wood stove
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Now it won’t turn off. :( It seems the red push for the switch won’t drop the relay out. I haven’t taken it apart yet to look at the wiring, but is the switch just momentary and the relay locks it on, I assume? I could just replace that with a toggle switch.

I can’t figure out why they need a capacitor unless to hold charge to hold the relay open but you can lock a relay without one. I pull the relay to turn it off and the cover came off. Looks like I have to rewire the start now.

eBay has a couple but they are not cheap.
Mine has a Stainless mount and a M8 post sticking up you can see in the first picture and where I mounted the angle on. Those with that drop pin do not appear to mount on this slicer. Mine says 827 for the model number and there is no A or E or any other suffice added. I have yet to find any good information on a plain 827.
 
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Now it won’t turn off. :( It seems the red push for the switch won’t drop the relay out. I haven’t taken it apart yet to look at the wiring, but is the switch just momentary and the relay locks it on, I assume? I could just replace that with a toggle switch.

I can’t figure out why they need a capacitor unless to hold charge to hold the relay open but you can lock a relay without one. I pull the relay to turn it off and the cover came off. Looks like I have to rewire the start now.


Mine has a Stainless mount and a M8 post sticking up you can see in the first picture and where I mounted the angle on. Those with that drop pin to not appear to mount on this slicer. Mine says 827 for the model number and there is no A or E or any other suffice added. I have yet to find any good information on a plain 827.

I can't help you with any wiring issues, not my strong area. I do know that Berkel has a website and a phone number to call. I honestly would just call them. I can't imagine they don't have some information or the ability to email you a pdf document of the 827 model. I did some google searches as well and NOT a lot of information on just the 827, mostly the A and E models.
 
I saw somewhere that switch assembly was over $100. No way I'm paying that.

I have done a lot of control wiring in the past and locking relays was something we did. The relay has two contacts and the second locks the relay coil once fired momentarily. The stop probably cuts power to the relay, unlocking it. Both the start and stop are monetary switches. I could replace it with a locking on/off switch of the correct amperage.

Now thinking the capacitor might just be a surge (spike) eater. Many devices have a set current and in Inrush current. A motor drawing 1amp can draw 1.25 or almost 1.5 amps for initial power up. The old its hard to get it started than keep it running inertia thing. Capacitor are similar to small batteries and would draw down that initial spike. That is how they are used in power supplies to help fill the gaps when converting AC power to DC power as they slowly discharge between each sine wave and charge back up on every peak wave. I know, lots more info than you needed, right? ;)

I'll have to flip it over and trace out and draw the wiring to understand how its all setup.
 
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Get one of these slicer blade sharpeners . Does up to 10" blades

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Has deburring thing and height adjustments.
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Most people will thumb their noses at this product I'm sure. I would buy one for my slicer however.. :)
 
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I actually sharpened it with my broadhead sharpener. It gets a ring like a knife when you pluck your finger on it, but doesn't feel like it will cut you touching it. It sliced bologna fine in the first test run when spinning.

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I picked up a Berkel 823 and it's all there looks very similar the one you have maybe a little smaller. Works great for what I have used it for. Check around with some food equipment supply places they may very well have some old use ones around for parts.

Warren
 
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