1940s- 50s Kelvanator build

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smokingin pa

Original poster
Jan 26, 2014
Millerstown, PA
Hey everyone. First let me say I was lost until I found this forum. I started my build without knowing how to finish it let alone start it. Lol.

I'm having trouble loading pics right know but I will post them later.
So what I've done so far:
- compressor and any external wires are gone.
- the plastic on the inner door is out.
- pulled all plastic, aluminum and wires out of the inside.
- pulled the tub out and had to remove the insulation because some of it was wet.

So what I am left with is just the cabinet and I really have no idea how to continue.
- What type of insulation do I install?
- What do I line the inside with? Stainless? Tin? Or do I just use the tub that I removed?
- What size vent should be installed?

Any help would be greatly appreciated.

Keep on smokin
I forgot to add that I plan on doing electric. So If I get an element for an oven, will it have to be wired for 220??

Mornin Smokingin PA, If you use an oven element it would be wired 220, but IMHO that would be overkill for heat. I am sure you would be able to get all the heat you need from a 1500 watt hot plate, if your fridge is well insulated and the door seals tightly.

As fare as your other questions:
What type of insulation do I install? Alot of people use Roxel

What do I line the inside with? Stainless? Tin? Or do I just use the tub that I removed? If the tub is not galvanized you could use it,
Aluminum sheet metal is cheaper and easier to work with than Stainless.

What size vent should be installed? I am not an expert on this but I am prety sure that what ever size you have in the bottom for air intake you need at least that size for a vent out the top.
lots of info on the forum.....
heres my build and it is an amalgamation of other builds from this site. how you build depends alot on what equipment and tools you have available. if you have welder access ect you van build heavier. i used 3" muffler pipe for my vents top and bottom, cut and made nice flanges, welded on 1 end and the other slides over and both screwed into the unit. others use heat ducting and is easy to work with. some guys use sheet metal to replace the plastic, others use aluminum flashing. the door is usually skinned in what ever ya get a deal on, steel or aluminum.... all options work. it boils down to dollars and cents. the brinkman is the way to go. lots of heat and get a PID from Auberins that it just plugs into.

then there are alot of varieties of smoke gens also. cant go wrong with a mailbox mod of the AMNPS. lets ya hot and cold smoke..

its all what ya want in the end



easier for everyone to help along the way

How do I tell if the the metal is galvanized?

The first thing to do is see if a maganet will stick to it. If it does then you know it is steal if it does not it is probably aluminium. If it is steal and is grayish color then it is probably galvanized. You can also go to ehow.com and search for Test to See Whether Steel Is Galvanized. They give a step by step there.
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I'm beginning to think a 750-1000 watt got plate will work. The reason in thinking this is the inside of the smoker will be 24"w X 50"t. Think that will work??
I'm beginning to think a 750-1000 watt got plate will work. The reason in thinking this is the inside of the smoker will be 24"w X 50"t. Think that will work??

I would go with at least 1000 watt, lower than that and you may have troubles on the upper end of your temps. Alot depends on how well it is insulated.
I have seen some where folks use duel hot plates for heat. Also, many (myself included) use 1500w Brinkmann replacement elements.
SmokinPA I can't speak from experience however I think it is worth a try to use the hot plates as a starting point but you must insulate very well best choice is Roxul mineral batts. You can always change heat source later if it proves too weak one other important note is that modern hot plates most likely all have thermal couples inside so remove any plastic from it and remove the thermal circuit which will allow it to run longer without shutting down from overheating.
  1000 watts won't be enough for that much space. Save yourself some problems. The 1500w Brinkman element is probably a good selection. My MES 40 is 1200w and I wouldn't want less in its case and I have half the space you do and pretty good insulation.

 The PID controller is your best choice for temp control if cost is not an issue. There are other options if cost is a problem.

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