Simple uds

[HJB]

I'm interested in seeing if I can pull off a very simple uds build.

Found new 55g drums for a decent price. They say the inside has lacquer..not sure what that means.

I'll be making a coal basket for a different grill so that can be used as the basket here.

I'm thinking no grates, just a hanging rack that will be custom.

Then all that's left is thermometer, intake and exhaust, lid handle

The lids have 2" and 3/4" threaded bungs already.

Ideally I like those raised pipe inlets for easy access but not sure if those qualify for simple build.

I was thinking maybe fixed diameter holes for intake that yield something like 250 , 275 temps, and no variable dampers. But I would need some way to close them to choke fire at end of session. Same for outlet.

Then if I got this far and it worked maybe lid hinge, casters, later.

Bigpoppas kits are available but I don't like the bottom vents and having to bend down to access.

I'm EU , otherwise I'd just order from udsparts.com.

 

[thirdeye]

It's easier to start with an unlined drum because burning out the liner can damage the exterior paint. Check out UDS Parts for ideas on accessories.

Ugly Drum Smoker Parts | how to build a 55 gallon cooker | UDS Parts | UDS Parts

How to build a UDS Ugly Drum Smoker! All that you need is a 55 gallon drum. 55 gallon drum parts, Ugly Drum Smoker parts, UDS charcoal basket, UDS cooking grate, thermometer, UDS hinge, UDS intake damper, Exhaust Damper, UDS Longtube intake pipes, baffle system for UDS

udsparts.com

 

[normanaj]

It's easier to start with an unlined drum because burning out the liner can damage the exterior paint.

For sure.

The OP could use a good quality paste stripper and manually remove the lacquer coating,marine grade Zip-Strip(blue can) is on the shelf in most bigbox,Ace or Sherwin stores.

Is it worth the effort to do it that way?Maybe,but it'll be messy,certainly require more than one application and require a lot of neutralizing/cleanup after the fact.

Edit:didn't see that he's in the EU so it's highly unlikely any type of chemical stripper would be available.

 

[thirdeye]

Edit:didn't see that he's in the EU so it's highly unlikely any type of chemical stripper would be available.

I missed that too.

 

[Fraser]

I also HIGHLY recommend stripping the liner or sourcing an unlined drum. That coating possibly (probably) toxic when heated.

If you’re looking for simple, check out my build, https://www.smokingmeatforums.com/threads/my-new-drum-smoker.314211/
im pretty simple, turned out great. It’s my primary rig nowadays.

 

[normanaj]

That coating possibly (probably) toxic when heated.

Absolutely toxic. Sprayed enough of it to know that to be true.

 

[HJB]

taking above advice. looking for unlined drum.
doing the initial burn or seasoning on an unlined drum won't damage external paint?

 

[HJB]

Does the metal composition of the intake tap matter? It is on the bottom nearer to coal basket, but ambient air temp is coming in?

Ie galvanized ok or do you need non toxic?

drum seller says inside is not galvanized, it looks clean. outside is painted.

Ai says shoot for total of about 1.7 square inches air intake in any combo of holes.

I see 1.25" and 2" taps readily available. Any didadvsntage to a single intake vs 2? I'd prefer single and double will be my max.

 

[Fraser]

Does the metal composition of the intake tap matter? It is on the bottom nearer to coal basket, but ambient air temp is coming in?

Ie galvanized ok or do you need non toxic?

drum seller says inside is not galvanized, it looks clean. outside is painted.

Ai says shoot for total of about 1.7 square inches air intake in any combo of holes.

I see 1.25" and 2" taps readily available. Any didadvsntage to a single intake vs 2? I'd prefer single and double will be my max.

First, an unlined drum doesn’t require a ‘burn’, the purpose of which is to remove the lacquer. Basically a bonfire inside to incinerate the lining quite probably will affect the external paint due to the extreme heat.
Seasoning (spray with cooking spray, for example) however is comparatively lower temp. Like seasoning cast iron skillet. Probably no impact to external paint (I didn’t experience any damage on mine).

I used black pipe (steel) for my 4 intakes (with one intake having a 90* elbow and a short riser to a ball valve) from my experience, don’t see much heat at the intakes, so I’d guess galvanized lock nuts would be ok. For the basket I avoided galvanized in favor of steel and SS instead. Recommend same.

I went with 4 intakes thinking it would produce more even airflow thus more even burn in the basket. True, for lighting I open all four intakes (and stack) but for the cook I close all but one intake and attach a Billows fan. If using a fan, the square inches calculations doesn’t matter much, simple. If not, things get complex. I’d suggest sizing the stack at least as much sq inches as the sum of the intakes but people smarter than me probably ran some numbers. In hindsight, knowing I’d use a fan I’d probably skip the riser/ball valve (I don’t use) and might just use two opposite intakes (for even airflow during lighting) to keep it simple.

Hope this helps!
-fraser

 

[HJB]

that does help thanks. surprising that external non high temp paint won't be harmed. but even if it is the worst case is a bonfire and spray some high temp on


i like the idea of the billows. not sure if i will do it but it's a good option.

If I'm copying gateway, etc , I'd want equivalent of 2 x 1.5" intakes. And a 2inch stack.

just have to decide on intakes and then it's a plan.

 

[Fraser]

i like the idea of the billows

I highly recommend. I just set Signals/Gateway just before cook temp and it’s rock-solid throughout cook, simple. (Tip: get the Billows going just before cooking temp, not after. It’s a whole lot easier to heat a drum than cool it off!)

From my experience, the drum gets warm but not screaming hot even with hot-fast cooks. My stack is centered on the lid and I think that really helps even airflow, reduces hotspots. With a central heat column, the sides remain surprisingly cool; I can usually put my hand on the drum at grill height.

If you’d like, I can dig out the particulars on how I did my intakes and adapted the Billows.

 

[HJB]

No need to get your info yet.

Centered stack is very useful info. If I had to guess though I would think front intake and rear stack but I'm taking your experience into consideration.

If I get a billows it will be the combustion Inc version. Need more time to think about it.

I was already aware that overshoot is mo Bueno but you make a good case for the billows in preventing post startup overshoot.

This uds will be dedicated 225 thru 300 range, no hot stuff.

 

[forktender]

No need to get your info yet.

Centered stack is very useful info. If I had to guess though I would think front intake and rear stack but I'm taking your experience into consideration.

If I get a billows it will be the combustion Inc version. Need more time to think about it.

I was already aware that overshoot is mo Bueno but you make a good case for the billows in preventing post startup overshoot.

This uds will be dedicated 225 thru 300 range, no hot stuff.

Center stack, isn't necessary whatsoever, reason being is that 90% of the time the meat will be centered in the drum, disrupting the "air flow ". Just put a vent on the lid where ever suits your visual needs. As far as using Galvi. on the air intakes, that would be fine, although I would just use black uncoated nipples and fittings, then paint them with a high heat spray paint.

You really don't have to overthink these things, I've been smoking on drum smokers since the late 1970s. I learned to cook on them working on cattle ranches from the old cowboys. We used to torch out the bottom and top of old drums, then place them over a camp fire, for the lid we used an old piece of tin roofing or an old metal motor oil drip pan. For the air intake a rock was placed under the drum, for the vent, the tin was slid to one side to create an opening.
Back then, all the meat was hung off of rebar using meat hooks. I still use a drum that I built with all of the mods I found on this forum, yrs ago. Guess what, I don't use anything more than the air intake and the weber kettle lid and grill grate, because it's easier than hanging the meat. Basically what I'm saying is in my opinion keep it simple, or not, what ever suits your needs.

A small shelf added to the drum comes in handy.

Good luck, once you taste beef cooked on a drum using live oak coals, there is no going back!!!

 

[HJB]

malcom reed uses a strip magnet over 2" hole in lid

i've seen some builds where the third bottom intake is plugged. why put a hole there and plug it, or is it used just once for the burn off?

looking at hunsaker foot pedal bottom intake

 

[Fraser]

A hole rather than a stack certainly works, but I think the stack promotes convective airflow, preventing recirculation/stagnation at and above the grate (leading to acrid cooks).

I open all intakes and stack for lighting, to encourage convective airflow. Once it’s drawing nicely, I’ll adjust stack and (if I’m not using fan) I’ll use intake caps to coarse-set temp and ball valve for fine-tuning. When using Billows, I’ll shut all other intakes.