Any PID can handle any wattage element. The PID only provides a switching signal to a relay which actually controls the load. PID are available to work with a mechanical relay or contactor (high amperage models are usually mercury wetted contactors) as well as a SSR or Solid State Relay (the more common in smokers). A lot of the Auberins models have both SSR & Mechanical relay outputs so check the model specs if you need a certain type of triggering output.
So first you need to pick the PID that can handle the programming steps you want. Auberins has a $78 unit that can be programed with up to 30 steps that looks like it would work. This model has relay output (a switch to control power to a external relay). All of the Auberins SSR units are DC triggered, which I am sending the link to their analog relay output model. Their step programable models will not work with a DC triggered SSR "as is". But, you could use a AC to DC circuit board to provide a DC low voltage power supply to be switched by this PID which would then trigger a Auberins DC triggered SSR like normal, but it cannot be done directly from their PID's if you need the 30 step ramp/soak programming capability.
http://www.auberins.com/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=1&products_id=5
You other option is just use a analog relay or contactor. Auberins has several to choose from and any of them would handle your desired load. Main advantage of a SSR over a analog relay is analog relays can eventually start sticking (either open or closed) and a PID is capable of very tight temp control which will cause a lot of relay switching. SSR has no moving parts and is better suited for more frequent switching operations. But a mechanical analog relay will work. I would change the hysteresis band to a little wider range to lessen the frequency of switching (a 2* band would turn turn heating element on at 223* and off at 227* for a 225* set point). Here is their page of relays.
http://www.auberins.com/index.php?main_page=index&cPath=2_31
To get the "dual probe" part of the unit, just add a second unit to monitor you meat temps and trigger an alarm at the desired "done" set point. Their least expensive units will handle that and they also have units that will trigger an alarm by either temp or time which would be good for a smoker doing something like 3-2-1 ribs, or anything else needing time instead of temp monitoring.
This unit has time & temp monitoring functions and would work great for a food temp/time monitor.
http://www.auberins.com/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=1&products_id=239
Important observation....
If you are going with a 1,800 to 1,900 watt element you are at the upper limits of what most 120v circuits can handle. It would probably work on a 20amp breaker, but not all household outlets are on 20 amp circuits, and even with a 20amp circuit if there was anything else running on that line, it would likely trip the breaker. If you go that high in wattage you may be better served to move to a 220v element and run a dedicated power outlet to the smoker. If your circuit is 15 amp you would be looking at a new run anyway so if you have to make the run, might as well be 220v IMO. Do not just swap the circuit breaker from 15 to 20 amp if you have a 15 amp in place now unless you are absolutely certain the wiring is at least 12 gauge from that circuit and all the branches of that circuit. Most houses are run with 14 gauge as it's cheaper and they only use the larger gauge where required.
$37.00 single temp pid for meat temp only
$19.65
