Pilot light vs. infared

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A pilot light "should" relight the burner in the event of a flame out.. no electricity needed...
Hot stick... needs electricity.. I guess you can leave them turned on... I don't know... Then it would definitely relight any flame out...
 
If I go with an automatic valve, I would need electricity anyway right? 110V/24V transformer to power the valve. Or is there a way to go automatic without electricity?
 
Hewitt 24V solenoid valve...yes activated by a controller using a thermocouple inside the smokehouse. When the low set point is reached, the controller opens the valve; allowing propane to the burner which the pilot will lite. When high set point is reached, controller closes the valve; shutting off the propane to the burner.

I may pipe in a bypass loop that I can control manual to keep a small flame going. not high enough to increase the temp, just enough to maintain heat and prevent wild temp swings. I have 36cuft. of space so the swings should not be that bad....
 
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Cool... sounds like a worthwhile project... Pictures, pictures and more pictures would be awesome... Oh yeah, part numbers also....
 
Will do Dave. Been researching this for a while and pretty sure I got it figured out. biggest problem with propane auto set ups is the temp. swings- which is one reason why it's not an optimum set up fr small commercial units under 5cu.ft.
I have a family of engineers to draw from. I will run my plans by my cousin and go from there.

The infared flame detector, seems I have to calibrate it to the flame for it to detect. dunno if this will be optimum on bright sunny days opening the door to check on the meat/add wood. But it would provide a fool proof way to prevent pilot flame out.
 
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Someone did one similar if not same on here not long ago but it wasn't very detailed.I'm with Dave,pics and part #'s please...or it didn't happen :D
 
I'm hoping I can do this.
I want to be able to get the smoker up and running via. the manual valve, stabilize the temp. in the smokehouse, then switch it over to auto. It won't be a true on/off system....it will be a very low flame/ medium flame system. With the medium flame bring the temp. up to high set point, then a slow slow gradual fall to low set point which I can control with how high I set flame via. the manual valve.
 
I watched a U-Tube video earlier today.. I was about trouble shooting an oil burner that kept flaming out... He pointed out a flame sensor, I think it was a cadmium something or other.. When light hits that particular sensor, the resistance goes from 30,000 ohms to almost zero.. or something close.. I'll go to U-tube and see if I can find it...
 
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