Some of the links on this forum allow SMF, at no cost to you, to earn a small commission when you click through and make a purchase. Let me know if you have any questions about this.
A pilot light "should" relight the burner in the event of a flame out.. no electricity needed...
Hot stick... needs electricity.. I guess you can leave them turned on... I don't know... Then it would definitely relight any flame out...
If I go with an automatic valve, I would need electricity anyway right? 110V/24V transformer to power the valve. Or is there a way to go automatic without electricity?
Hewitt 24V solenoid valve...yes activated by a controller using a thermocouple inside the smokehouse. When the low set point is reached, the controller opens the valve; allowing propane to the burner which the pilot will lite. When high set point is reached, controller closes the valve; shutting off the propane to the burner.
I may pipe in a bypass loop that I can control manual to keep a small flame going. not high enough to increase the temp, just enough to maintain heat and prevent wild temp swings. I have 36cuft. of space so the swings should not be that bad....
Will do Dave. Been researching this for a while and pretty sure I got it figured out. biggest problem with propane auto set ups is the temp. swings- which is one reason why it's not an optimum set up fr small commercial units under 5cu.ft.
I have a family of engineers to draw from. I will run my plans by my cousin and go from there.
The infared flame detector, seems I have to calibrate it to the flame for it to detect. dunno if this will be optimum on bright sunny days opening the door to check on the meat/add wood. But it would provide a fool proof way to prevent pilot flame out.
I'm hoping I can do this.
I want to be able to get the smoker up and running via. the manual valve, stabilize the temp. in the smokehouse, then switch it over to auto. It won't be a true on/off system....it will be a very low flame/ medium flame system. With the medium flame bring the temp. up to high set point, then a slow slow gradual fall to low set point which I can control with how high I set flame via. the manual valve.
I watched a U-Tube video earlier today.. I was about trouble shooting an oil burner that kept flaming out... He pointed out a flame sensor, I think it was a cadmium something or other.. When light hits that particular sensor, the resistance goes from 30,000 ohms to almost zero.. or something close.. I'll go to U-tube and see if I can find it...
This site uses cookies to help personalise content, tailor your experience and to keep you logged in if you register.
By continuing to use this site, you are consenting to our use of cookies.