Old Country Brazos Maiden Run Questions

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rabbithutch

Master of the Pit
Original poster
OTBS Member
As I posted in another thread last week, I got this smoker for Christmas. It's an SFB made of 1/4" steel. It's cooking chamber is 30" long by 19" in diameter. The firebox is the same diameter and 20" long. It has a good tall stack made of 1/8" thick steel with a damper/cap. The main cooking grate is at the center of the diameter of the tube. There is a 7" grate up near the top. It has a baffle supplied and welded in place; but there are no dial gauge thermometers, and I've not yet had any tuning plates cut. I'll add those and some River Country thermos later after I've learned a bit more about this smoker. If you have advice about what River Country thermo probe lengths to buy and where to place the gauges, I'd be much obliged to hear from you. Price is an issue because I'm retired and poor.

It's been a week; so tomorrow I plan to season it and learn as much as I can about how it heats and how to maintain temps in a stick burner, something I've never done before. I thought I'd lay out my plan here and seek input from all you more experienced stick burners.

First, I'll remove all the racks and grates and wipe the inside down good. Then I'll spray everything inside, top and bottom, with canola oil, including the firebox before replacing the racks. Then I plan to place some digital thermometer probes in blocks of 2x4 in different places . . . at the center of the main cooking grate above the baffle edge and another above it on the top grate and one on the main grate near the stack and another above it on the upper grate. I would think that 4 readings in a 30" chamber would be as many as I need, but if you think I should use others, please advise. I plan to take readings at the start of the fire and hourly after that for as long as I can keep it up. I'll use an IR thermo to read inside the firebox and to read outside temps.

On the digital thermos, I have a Maverick 732 and will use the CC probe on it. The others are single probe units designed to measure food temps, but I can't see that using them in blocks of wood to read chamber temps would be a problem. PLEASE! If you see a problem using food probes as described, please tell me before I ruin 3 thermos and probes. PLEASE! The others are a mixed lot. I've never calibrated them; so it's possible that they all read differently or have different characteristics reading the same temp. I plan to shift them around every couple of hours to see if changing locations will give similar or significantly different readings for each unit. I'll also use the IR when I do the moving around to read inside temps on the CC walls. If I don't have the lid open too long, I think I'll get readings relatively close to the air temps because the steel is 1/4" thick. We'll see.

After the initial thermo set up and recording their readings, I'll light a fire with a chimney of KBB nice and red and frosty to make a coals bed. Then I'll add a stick at a time and watch how the stick burns and add more as the sticks burn and the temps change. If I see drops on the probed units, I plan to add more sticks. I plan to record thermo readings hourly and take pics of the fire. This leads me to my next issue, how high to raise the heat on a seasoning burn. I've read different things and most seemed like personal opinions not backed with information that I understood. I'd first like to see if I can hit 225° and hold a range between there and 275° for awhile. That's where I have done most of my smokes on my Webers. The question is how high to heat the initial burn. I'd be much obliged for your wise counsel on seasoning heats. Also, how long should I continue the fire. Will 3 or 4 hours be enough or should I shoot for longer. I'll probably run it longer just to see if I can learn how damper and firebox lid opening affect CC heat. The BIG QUESTION is what is the max temp I should try to reach and how long should I hold it. There will be no food in the smoker on this burn.

That demonstrates the extent of my knowledge and my ignorance. As you can see the former is not at all significant but the latter is great. Anything you can tell me to insure a successful seasoning and for me to learn as much as I can about how Brazos responds will be very much appreciated.
 
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Rh, morning....  First things first....   burn off all the mill oil etc, from the manufacturing process...  I'd run the smokers temp up to around 400-450...  Hold it there for an hour or so...  With your non contact therm, check FB temps to see how well smoke/temp move from the FB to the CC...   Chech the ends of the CC and near the bottom of the exhaust stack to see temp differences from FB to stack...  That will help you in figuring out how meats are cooking..   

I'm back...started this response at 3:15 am.... 

Cool the smoker down to around 200-225 or so...Spray the inside and outside with cooking spray...     once it "sets" spray again... You can spray after every smoke...   add wood and do a practice smoke run to coat the inside of the smoker with smoke residue....   do that as long as you care to...   throw some bacon in to cook for bacon bits..  some ABT"s...  chicken wings....   don't want to waste a good smoker full of smoke.... 

After several hours of mid range temps, you should be good to go..... 

Sorry about the delay in my response....   ground bacon in the smoker...... ice and snow needed to be cleared...   then there was mid-afternoon nap time....   anywho, the ground and formed bacon is cooking away...  idling at 145 smoker temp...   few more hours to go...  Iffin you was here, we could have a slice and a sip....   

Later...
 
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Rabbit Hutch, it's good to see you on again. Maybe I've just been missing you.

Tha Brazos is a great unit. I did a lot of research on it a couple of years ago. If you have a drain on the exhaust end, that's great for cleaning. If not, I would definitely install a nipple and ball valve for that purpose. It's also good for hanging a small can or bucket to collect grease during a cook. I have a 1-1/2" PVC rig that I attach to the ball valve to drain away soapy water when cleaning. With the drain, I would spray the inside and outside with "simple green" or some other de-greaser or at least dish washing spray and then hose down with a water hose and all the pressure that I could get.

When it's dry, build a good fire starting with your charcoal preference. I use RO lump for a good coal bed and then add a couple of splits. Spray the inside all over with Canola or some other cooking spray and the outside with WD40. I have the grates in during this process. I slowly let it increase to at least 350* and hold it there for a couple of hours. Then I let it burn down to 250* (or 225, if that's your usual cooking temp). My usual is 250-275*, or 350+ for poultry. When you have settled in at your cooking temp, you can put on some chicken parts or anything cheap. Don't waste a good fire. After you take off the chicken or whatever, just let it cool down and burn out.

I use this method after every 3rd or 4th cook or at least twice a season.

From the looks of your avatar, there is a gauge in the middle of the top grate. That should be good for a 30" cooker at the top. I would also put in a 3" RC at each end, just above the lower grate. I think the 4" stem is a good length to get the therm as far into the heat as possible. Blow up my avatar to see the gauge locations.

I think I would do a couple of cooks before you consider tuning plates. With a baffle in a 30" CC, you may not need them. My cooker is 48" and I have the Horizon style convection plate in mine. I like the way it works better than tuning plates.

Good luck with it. PM me and let me know how it turns out and how you've been. Joe. :grilling_smilie:
 
Thanks, Dave and Joe!

I shall follow your advice. I kinda like the idea of Simple Green and a hose out because there is quite an accumulation of oil from the manufacture process inside. I hadn't thought of treating the outside. WD-40 I have.

The avatar is from an advertising picture. The Brazos does NOT come with a thermometer but there is a threaded hole with a plug at the site pictured. The drain hole has a short pipe welded to the underside. There are threads on the outside of the pipe. I'll have to measure them to see what size ball valve to get. Thanks for the tip on the RC thermos. I think I'll go for the less expensive 3" ones as I'm less likely to bang around against them.

Again, thank you both very much for the advice.
 
Anyone know where I can get a valve for the drain stem on the old country Brazos smoker
 
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