No power to MES 130B

[nelgin]

Hi all,

Went to smoke a brisket the other day and my smoker wouldn't power on. I tried another outlet just in case and also plugged something else in and it worked fine so I'm a bit stuck. I suspected the control panel since I've read that is often the first point of failure but the replacement didn't power up either.

I see the connector has 4 pins but I don't know which carries what voltage to test it to make sure it's getting power.

Can anyone assist?

Also, where do I go next if there is (or isn't) power? My son is really pestering me for a brisket so I want to get this working for him.

Thanks,.

 

[tallbm]

Hi all,

Went to smoke a brisket the other day and my smoker wouldn't power on. I tried another outlet just in case and also plugged something else in and it worked fine so I'm a bit stuck. I suspected the control panel since I've read that is often the first point of failure but the replacement didn't power up either.

I see the connector has 4 pins but I don't know which carries what voltage to test it to make sure it's getting power.

Can anyone assist?

Also, where do I go next if there is (or isn't) power? My son is really pestering me for a brisket so I want to get this working for him.

Thanks,.

Hi there and welcome!

To be clear neither controller on top come on at all?
If not then the circuit board located on the underneath side of the smoker.

If it powers on but does not heat up then it is likely the connectors at the safety rollout limit switch (you may have to cut a panel in the back to get to this) or the connectors at the heating element. The connectors Masterbuilt uses are trash and corrode away to nothing fast.

It sounds like you tried a spare top controller and sounds like no power at all to the top controller. You likely will not find a replacment circuit board.

So your best option in this case is to do a simple rewire (cut ends off 4 wires and wirenut to make 2 new wires) and buy a PID controller (about $150).
Sounds like a lot but the thing is this is less expensive than a new smoker AND this change makes your uses MES 100x better performing than anything you could buy new for less than $1,000. It is like a whole new completely bad ass smoker compared to what it used to be. Seriously!
Oh, you will also be able to keep this smoker running through anything short of being hit by a tornado for the foreseeable future after these changes :)


Let us know some more and we will get you sorted out :)

 

[nelgin]

Considering I live in Texas, I might also need it to run while being hit by a tornado :)

So, why will this make it better than anything I can buy less than $1000 and where do I start?

Also, yes, no power to the top controller which I replaced. How can I find out which pins carry voltage and what sort, I assume DC but what voltage and which is ground so I can see if power is actually getting there?

 

[holyfeld]

Taking the MES electronics out of the temperature control is very easy. I did it with my MES-40. https://www.smokingmeatforums.com/threads/mes-40-model-20070512-temperature-problems.151864/

tldr;

1. Find your heating element and disconnect the existing wires.
2. Get a 3 wire plug/cable and the correct size crimp connectors from your local big box store.
3. Get a PID controller. I chose Auber. Others here may have other good suggestions. Be sure the controller can handle the current/watt load of your heating element.
4. Connect the new cable to the heating element.
5. Figure out where/how to mount the controller temperature probe. Some people put it in the exhaust vent of the smoker.
6. Plug the heating element cable in the controller output.
7. Plug the controller into the outlet.
8. Set the temp and start smoking.

The MES controller uses on/off control similar to your house heat/air conditioning. As such the actual temperature oscillates around your setpoint. Heat goes off when it gets to setpoint, but the built up energy causes the temperature to climb a few degrees more. Power stays off until the temperature falls below the setpoint. Then it takes a little while for the heat to recover and start climbing.

PID controllers work differently. They keep a little power going all the time to keep the temperature at a specific setpoint. (this is something of a simplification)

 

[dr k]

Like tallbm mentioned if the controller won't illuminate, then the transformer at the bottom of the smoker (access panel outside of the bottom of the smoker) on the pcb may have failed, burnt up or the circuit board traces are fried/shorted.

This is a direct PID controller connect to the element. Tallbm has a simple rewire to cut the two wires to the black cube relay and wire nut them together where your problem is on the burnt pcb. Plugged in is heating so you plug Mes 30 into a PID controller, plug PID in the outlet and run sensor down top vent and hang/place it near your food.

 

[tallbm]

Considering I live in Texas, I might also need it to run while being hit by a tornado :)

So, why will this make it better than anything I can buy less than $1000 and where do I start?

Also, yes, no power to the top controller which I replaced. How can I find out which pins carry voltage and what sort, I assume DC but what voltage and which is ground so I can see if power is actually getting there?

Hahaha well not sure how to tornado proof it, just gotta cross the fingers and hope it doesn't get hit :D

holyfeld covered some of this in his post but I'll also elaborate on how the rewire and PID controller make the smoker amazingly better :)

The rewire and PID controller will make it to where your MES hits and holds right on or within 1-3 degrees of the smoking temperature you set it too. It will also be sure to ACTUALLY hit that temp.

The stock MES intentionally does temp swings to attempt to give you an average that is near your set temp. So if you set to 250F it would swing up to like 265F and drop to like 235F over and over. Also mine and many other's out there never actually hit the max 275F temp which sucks.

Why does hitting and holding on a temp matter?
It is precise, reliable, and repeatable. This matters when you attempt things like sausage, bacon, and jerky where you need tight control of the temps or else you can easily melt out all the fat and ruin the meat or simply overcook the meat.
Also if you want to smoke something hotter and faster you can actually hit that 275F max temp. A brisket, pork butt, or ribs do not care what temp you cook them at so cranking it up makes sense to speed up the cook.

How do you find out info on the pins and voltage?
You have to get into the circuit board on the bottom side of the smoker.
The circuit board will likely have the markings to tell you about the pins... if you are lucky.
Also when you look at the board you may see burnt out/busted/swollen/rusted components that let you know what likely went on.
If you know how to work circuit boards there is a chance you can repair it. There is little chance you can find a replacement board since it seems Masterbuilt never seems to have replacements since the pandemic.

I'd bet money something is busted on the board and your only real option at that time is to do the simple rewire down there and to look into a PID controller.

Here is a detailed post with pictures on the rewire for using a PID controller.

HeaterMeter Controller, with Wifi, and Electric Smoker (MES40) Mod in Detail

Want to know how to setup the HeaterMeter PID Controller with Wifi to work with the MES? Here you go :) Table of Contents Overview HeaterMeter Mod Design MES Rewired - just mention don't go into detail HeaterMeter Based Controller Box Wiring and Diagrams HeaterMeter Setup Common Setup...

www.smokingmeatforums.com

Let me know if this all makes sense and don't worry, you can get this thing up and running no matter what without spending the money it could cost for a new smoker :)

 

[cmayna]

Yes for a direct connect of a power cord to the heating element as suggested by holyfeld and dr k.

Here’s my new power cable exiting thru the back lower plate and going up to the Auber WS-1510ELPM PID controller that sits on top of the smoker.

The controller’s temp wire goes down thru the exhaust vent which is never closed.

 

[EnginseerThericax]

My apologies if you've already worked out the issue, but I had a similar problem with my Masterbuilt 30" Digital Electric Smoker (Model MB20071117) and wanted to share what I found just in case.

Cause of Failure:
Grease and fat leaked into the power supply compartment of my electric smoker and caused it to fail.

My MB20071117 smoker doesn't have a sealed power supply, so fat and grease leaked through the insulation and pooled on the PCB Access Cover beneath the Power Control Board (Part 9907160013) until it coated the electronics in fat. Fortunately, the PCB Access Cover on my smoker uses screws instead of rivets and was easy to access.

If this isn't your issue, I also list a couple other possibilities in the "Alternative Causes of Failure" section below.

Symptoms:

• Control panel won't turn on.
• Pressing power button doesn't trip house circuit breaker or GFCI electrical outlets.
  • If your smoker does trip a circuit breaker/GFCI outlet, then the heating element may have failed. See "Alternative Causes of Failure" below for more information.
• Voltage to Digital Control Panel is very low (~0.2 V for me) when smoker plugged in.

Disclaimer:
I am not a professional electrician--I just like making and fixing things and sharing what I learned. This post is for informational purposes only. Please see the bottom of the post for the full disclaimer.

GENERAL WARNINGS:

• Unplug your electric smoker before cleaning, removing, or installing any electrical parts.
• The capacitor on the power supply may still have a charge. After unplugging the smoker, press and hold the unit's power button for 20-30 seconds. Alternatively, use a capacitor discharge tool.
• The metal edges of the power supply compartment are unfinished and very sharp on the MB20071117 smoker. I learned this the hard way.

Solutions:

• Option 1--Carefully remove and clean the PCB with isopropyl alcohol and/or electrical contact cleaner.
  WARNING:
  • Let your PCB dry completely before reinstalling.
• Option 2--Get a new Power Control Board from Masterbuilt if the smoker is under warranty. If not, Masterbuilt has the part (and others) available for purchase:
  https://www.masterbuilt.com/products/9907160013-power-circuit-board-kit
  • My PCB Access Cover (Part 9907170054) fell apart while just unscrewing it. If that happens to you, the part is available at the following link:
    https://www.masterbuilt.com/products/9907170054-pcb-access-panel-kit

Alternative Causes of Failure:

• Possibility 1--The heating element might have gone bad.
  • The heating element for my smoker is Part 9907120011, and can be purchased from Masterbuilt:
    https://www.masterbuilt.com/products/9907120011-element-kit-800-watt
  • Here are two videos that show how to test and replace the heating element:
    • Masterbuilt smoker short circuit - Howto troubleshoot and replace Electric Smokehouse Heat element by DIY Tinker
    • How to Test a Smoker (or really any) Heating Element! by Everyday Dave
• Possibility 2--The Digital Control Panel may have failed.
  • It sounds like this wasn't your problem, but for anyone else who needs it, the Digital Control Panel for the MB20071117 smoker is Part 9907160014 and can be purchased from Masterbuilt:
    https://www.masterbuilt.com/products/9907160014-digital-control-panel-kit

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Disclaimer:
This post is for informational purposes only. Please contact the original manufacturer if you are having issues with your equipment. If you choose to perform your own repairs, you do so at your own risk. I am not liable for any harm that may come to you, other living things, your property, or your equipment. I am also not liable if any work you choose to perform voids any warranties.