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New member and needs help with busted electric smoker. PID???

Discussion in 'Electric Smokers' started by jreamsnyder, Jan 2, 2019.

  1. SonnyE

    SonnyE Master of the Pit OTBS Member SMF Premier Member

    Check your Conversations, (IM's PM's) I sent you an extensive explanation.
    Come to think about it, ALL my conversations are lengthy. Unless it's a punch line....) :emoji_imp:
  2. theSane

    theSane Newbie

    I am in the same boat. I see the replacement parts, but am unsure of how to wire the power. Could you please describe how the SSR and INKBird should be connected?
    SonnyE likes this.
  3. AP514

    AP514 Fire Starter

    How about Sharing :)
    Kind of interested in this one..;)
    SonnyE likes this.
  4. SonnyE

    SonnyE Master of the Pit OTBS Member SMF Premier Member

    Hi, Guys, I just happened to bumbel into this. Please PM (Conversations) so you are sure it will yank my chain and get my attention. Glad to help, if I can.

    I brought up the online manual for the ITC-106

    Yes, cord wires:
    Wht - Terminal 10 of ITC. (T-10)
    Blk - Terminal 9 of ITC. (T-9)
    Grn - Ground to chassis, receptacle if used, carries through to all grounding needs. Never switch or fuse any ground conductors.
    This is the 120V AC input to the ITC-106.

    Do you have a 2-wire, or a 3 wire Thermocouple (Temperature sensor)?
    Wire it according to Page 5, Subheading #4, of the manual.
    If it is a two wire, be aware that T-4 & T-5 have a jumper tieing the two together. (Mine was a two wire)
    If it has 3 wires (Red, Blue, Blue) wire it per the 3 wire.
    This tells the ITC the temperature inside your smoker.

    Solid State Relay (SSR) - The Input side of this device has a Positive (Terminal 3), and a Negative (Terminal 4).
    Terminal 8 of the ITC connects to Terminal 3 (+) of the SSR.
    Terminal 6 of the ITC connects to Terminal 4 (-) of the SSR.
    This is the control for the SSR from the ITC.


    This part is important, Because we are keeping the Over Temperature device of the MES in the heater element circuit, we want the hot leg (Black wire) ITC T-9, and the SSR T-1 connected. (NOT T-10/T-1 as shown.)
    At this point I want you to look at this segment of this video.
    You can follow George's advice fully if you'd like, it works. He just looks at it slightly differently than I do.
    The bottom line is we want the ITC and SSR to control a receptacle that we can plug in our MES into.

    (This also allows us to use our ITC with SSR to operate other things we'd like to control with temperature sensing. In my case, I have two MES's, a 30 and a 40. The 40 is destined to be a cold smoker only. It's big enough to hang meat in. So it is getting totally simplified. (already has) )
    But, by cord connecting the modified OEM MES wiring, the over Temperature device stays in the smokers circuit to protect it from running away.
    An important safety issue.

    OK, you chew on this for a while, and come back with any questions.
    It takes a bit for PM's to circulate. I can't always be in front of my computer.
    Double check each wire, and over all. Because electronics are unforgiving.
    You cross anything up and when you power it up, POP. At the speed of light is is junk.
    Do one wire at a time, make sure it is correct, then double check it. You'd be amazed how easily a mistake can occur.
    And always, ALWAYS! Unplug anything before you touch it.

  5. river100

    river100 Newbie

    You left nothing to the imagination which is actually the way it should be when it comes to electricity :)
    SonnyE likes this.
  6. SonnyE

    SonnyE Master of the Pit OTBS Member SMF Premier Member

    Thanks River.
    I'm here if any questions should come up.

    Mine gave me a bit of a Hummm.... yesterday.
    Apparently I poked the button that switched it to a slightly different mode. (SET)
    I was wondering why it wasn't ramping up. I finally figured it out. Mine needs to be in ALT to give the right output. I had it in RUN. And in RUN, it wasn't, well, running right. :emoji_confounded:
    I connected a low wattage LED light to the output (Receptacle I use).
    I found that quite interesting watching it pulse with the output. And as the temperature is reached, you can visibly see the pulses taper down.
    I always enjoyed being able to literally see electricity working. The pulses of the light are the same as the pulses to the heater element. Once I realized it needed to be in ALT mode, everything was working fine again.
    Doh! [​IMG]
    daveomak likes this.
  7. JosephParker

    JosephParker Newbie

  8. theSane

    theSane Newbie

    Thanks for the help. Everything is wired up and installed in a grey electrical junction box and bolted back to the smoker.

    Tested it out for a few hours. Had to adjust the thermostate reading by 30° and now it is accurate. The only oddity is that whatever temo I set, this seems to keep the smoker temp 8° below. Once it gets close, it does not keep the element on enough to reach the target temp. I can set it to 250° or 225° and the temp will stop at 242° or 217°.

    Thankfully that is not a showstopper. You guys got me running again and I appreciate it.
  9. SonnyE

    SonnyE Master of the Pit OTBS Member SMF Premier Member

    There is no "Best" Joseph. There is "What fits your needs and budget?"

    Best to me would be a Smokin It, Or a The Sausage Maker Smokehouses.
    But that is just My Opinion.
    And at my vintage, I'm not apt to make such a commitment.
    Shave 10-20 years off my dirty butt, and I'd be ordering instead of writing you. :emoji_wink:
  10. SonnyE

    SonnyE Master of the Pit OTBS Member SMF Premier Member

    I'm not sure if you can adjust the output to correct the error. But you should be able to.
    As long as the element, and safety Thermodisc are in working order, using a PID to run your smoker can be straight forward.
  11. river100

    river100 Newbie

    How did you adjust the thermostat reading was that a setting in the PID controller ?