My try at a 125ga propane tank

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I am not sure there is a right or wrong as to where you put the stack (although Lang, a very popular RF smoker manufacturer, has their exhaust flush with the top of the chamber), some are flush, some are at grate level.  As long as you built the pit to the specs off the calculator, you should have no problem.  Heat and smoke are always looking for a opening to escape from, so yes, lowering the stack to grate level will keep both in the chamber for a longer period of time.  I was not arguing that point, but on a RF rig, you are getting a solid plate of heat below the meat, so I don't believe you need the stack to be lower to help with heat and the longer you keep the smoke in the chamber, the heavier the smoke flavor will be on your meat.  Personally, I put mine 1/2" through the chamber, and have no problem achieving a great smoke ring on all meats, but I also don't over smoke the meat either.  If you go with plan A from the start, since it is an existing opening, then if you have some problems, I don't think it would take much to seal that off and move the stack to the top.  In the end, it is really probably personal preference.

Pic of inside of a Lang RF...

60Interior02.jpg
 
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Thanks for posting that picture, I went and looked around their site, and the 48 is almost the same size as what I'm building, they seem to have a pretty good handle on things and sticking it in the top saves an extra cut and weld, so to the top it goes.
 
10/4 Bruno994

I understand where you are coming from , but your build is different than SmokerCT and mine are. That Lang is a small diameter cooking chamber  and even with it flush with the top of the chamber, you probably only have 10" to 12" from the bottom grate.

Mine, with 8" into chamber still has 16" from bottom cooking grate and 4" from top grate.

Smoker CT is a large diameter chamber as well. He should have mulible racks instead of a single one and I feel he would benefit from bringing the pipe down into the chamber at leat one third the distance from the bottom grate to the top of the chamber.

Just my opionion though.

SmokerCT,

  Think about mounting it in a way that you can modify it later if you have any issues. Ding an elbow does not leave any room for modification.

By the way, what is the handle to the right of the cooking chamber door for?
 
Good point Ribwizzard.  I can see a deeper depth pit possibly needing some extension into the chamber.  Mine is 24" in diameter, so my lower grate is 12" or so from the top of the tank, but my exhaust actually comes in on the backside of the tank and with it being 6" pipe, it falls a few inches above my upper grate which is about 6" from the top of the tank.

 
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Also, Just for the heck of it, I added a 2nd pipe to the other end,  I finished all my racks last weekend and got the unit painted, so I'll be able to let you know if the 2nd pipe helps regulate heat and how if it does.

 
Also, Just for the heck of it, I added a 2nd pipe to the other end,  I finished all my racks last weekend and got the unit painted, so I'll be able to let you know if the 2nd pipe helps regulate heat and how if it does.

wouldn't the second pipe defeat the purpose of it being RF?
 
Yes, only if its open.  The whole ideal behind reverse flow is an even heating chamber.  I hope it will allow me to have enough control to have a dual zone temp range . This is my first horizontal smoker since giving up on them and using vertical smokers for the last 10 years. I hope that the reverse flow plate, the firebox 1/3 under the cooking chamber, and the dual exhaust may fix all the things I dont like about horizontal smokers, becouse I do think they look cool. I will know this weekend and share the results with everyone.
 
Yes, only if its open.  The whole ideal behind reverse flow is an even heating chamber.  I hope it will allow me to have enough control to have a dual zone temp range . This is my first horizontal smoker since giving up on them and using vertical smokers for the last 10 years. I hope that the reverse flow plate, the firebox 1/3 under the cooking chamber, and the dual exhaust may fix all the things I dont like about horizontal smokers, becouse I do think they look cool. I will know this weekend and share the results with everyone.
OK,I get that.
 
Got the back on the fire box, and cut the hole for the stack. At 7" into the chamber the stack would be level with the upper rack and about 11" above the lower rack.

The stack is a friction fit right now so I can put some sort of gasket/clamp on it to test with for now.
 
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 We have a fire box, ran out of wire again.I didn't finish cutting the door until I had the strips tacked on, I'll finish the fire box tomorrow.
 
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It's a door, hinges work well and it closes tight. Now lots of welding and grinding to finish it up. Add some vents to the fire box and do a test burn. I can see the end in sight.
 
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We have fire. Fire burn fine with all the doors closed, still have some little leaks and some holes to fill. temp came up with no issues, not sure how correct the thermometer is.
 
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Just some feedback on my stacks. With the left stack closed (farthest from firebox) the temps stayed even on both ends. With the left stack open, the left end ran about 15 degrees less than the right side. That was cooking at 300 degrees,
 
Have the fire box vents installed, stack and baffle for the stack, I wanted it inside the pipe so it is. Weld in the RF plate and some racks, then make it pretty.
 
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Racks in, need some expanded metal and a couple of ideas to keep the fire box closed.
 
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I was hoping to make something. So far I haven't bought anything but raw metal, kind of shame not to finish that way.
 
what i ended up doing was using a nut and bolt plus a chipping hammer handle. drill a hole through your door big enough for the bolt to go through from the outside,thread the nut on the back side of the door and weld it in place,youll want the threads to stick out on the inside enough so you can weld a little piece of steel onto them and act as your latch,cut the bolt head off so there is only a small stubb sticking out on the outside.with the chipping hammer cut the the hammer part of it off right where it meets the shaft so all your left with is the handle and shaft,next bend a 90 about a inch or so from where u just cut,now weld that onto the bolt and youll have a adjustable handle.if you need the door to be tighter just turn the handle and it will go in and out on the nut as long as you left enough threads.hope this makes sense and check my build post for pics.
 
Racks I need to add the details, handles, my wife wants me to put on a fold down shelf now and I'll get the supports in for the upper rack, and build the upper rack later. Install the tubing to mount it to the trailer, it will be removable and free standing if need be off the trailer. A little paint, still looking at colors, anyone done Chevy engine blue? First cook is scheduled for next weekend.
 
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