My 80 Gallon build (Q-view pics added)

[wildman9136]

Ok, so I scrapped the idea of the 55 gal drum. I got the old air compressor from the back of the shop, rough cut the pump/motor and legs off of it. Its an 80 gal. tank that was built in (get this) 1957. I'm gonna leave the data plate on it cause nobody will believe me when its done. I've cut the door, put on some hinges and started the firebox. Per the calculator, the (slightly oversized} firebox is going to be 24" x 20" x 20" out of 3/8" diamond tread for the sides and top and bottom. 1/4" diamond tread for the back and door ( because that's the scrap I had). I am not sure of the placement of the firebox and RF plate. For example how far in and up does the fire box go on the end of the tank and what is the distance relationship between the RF plate and the firebox. Take a look at the pictures and tell me what y'all think.

2012-09-24_12-29-07_70.jpg

• wildman9136
• Sep 26, 2012

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• wildman9136
• Sep 26, 2012

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• wildman9136
• Sep 26, 2012

 

[woodcutter]

I've been thinking of building a reverse flow smoker lately. I'm trying to decide what the right size for my needs are and your 80 gal. looks just right. Thanks for posting!

Looks very nice!
 

 

[wildman9136]

Well I got the firebox all welded up, except for the door, today. I am thinking of placing the firebox in the position shown in the picture. It will be in as far as the weld on the dome. As far as verticle placement, where i'm thinking of putting it will give me about 5 inches between the RF plate and the cooking grate if I start the plate from the top of the firebox where it sits in side the cook chamber. that will leave me about 7 inches from the plate to the bottom of the chamber. Does this sound like the right distances?

2012-09-27_18-27-35_612.jpg

• wildman9136
• Sep 27, 2012

2012-09-27_18-35-46_237.jpg

• wildman9136
• Sep 27, 2012

 

[ribwizzard]

I highly recomend placing the firebox into the cooking chamber, about 1/3 of the firebox being under the chamber.I think your height is close, just move the box to the left until the left vertical side of the firebox is in line with the right verticle line of your cooking chamber door. That will put it close to 1/3 and keep it looking good to.

 

[wildman9136]

Ok I've gotten a little closer, ground off all the extra bits from the legs and the pump. Made the cut for the firebox.

2012-10-01_18-16-36_115.jpg

• wildman9136
• Oct 1, 2012

And the fit.

2012-10-01_18-22-04_781.jpg

• wildman9136
• Oct 1, 2012

What do guys think? Next is sand blasting everything then welding the firebox in.

 

[wildman9136]

What thickness should I use for the RF plate and the flat bar that goes around the edges of the cook chamber door? Also do I need to do the same thing for the fire box door?

 

[roller]

Perfect size...good job !

 

[daveomak]

Wildman, evening... The smoker is looking good......  I am attaching some links for "food for thought" when building your smoker....   These will help you determine the best way to go.... Individual design is good... Just don't want you kicking yourself down the road when something goes awry....  I haven't found a definitive answer to this point....  "space under the RF plate and space at the end of the RF plate"... I have taken the liberty of recommending 1.5 times the area of the firebox to smoke chamber opening for these dimensions.... There is a fair amount of friction loss while the heat and smoke are traveling under the RF plate and then it has to take a 180 to head toward the stack.... The area is to allow for that and be on the safe side....  The circle calculator will help you figure the area under the RF plate and for the firebox opening...  If you have any further questions please do not hesitate to ask....  We have many members who are experienced in building smokers and know the ins and outs and tricks to make life easy....   The stack placement works best when just above the lowest cooking grate..... It can come out the end or drop down from the top.... I'm in for the rest of the build.....

.....  I love watching a plan come together.....  Great pics by the way....  

Dave

http://www.smokingmeatforums.com/t/54542/building-an-italian-offset-smoker

http://www.feldoncentral.com/bbqcalculator.html

http://www.1728.org/circsect.htm

 

[wildman9136]

Been real busy lately but got some time to work on the smoker today. After 1.5 hrs with the wire wheel on the grinder removing the rust off the firebox, I got it welded to the chamber. Gotta find some flat bar and angle iron to go any farther. I can't find any scrap at work and I really want to use all scrap so I'll see.

2012-10-10_19-05-42_5.jpg

• wildman9136
• Oct 10, 2012

Here are the welds, not too bad, but I was rushing a bit.

2012-10-10_19-04-13_992.jpg

• wildman9136
• Oct 10, 2012

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• wildman9136
• Oct 10, 2012

And here is the rig I use.

2012-10-10_19-03-52_822.jpg

• wildman9136
• Oct 10, 2012

Hopefully i'll find some steel and get alot farther this weekend.

 

[wildman9136]

A few questions,

1. If my exhaust comes out of the end with a 90 degree turn to go straight up how does that effect the length of the stack in relation to the BBQ calculator numbers?

2. Does a bigger opening in the firebox to chamber have any advantages of disadvantages?

3. Is there any disadvantage to starting my RF plate a little above the FB?

If i make the FB to CC opening like the picture here then I will have a little less than 1.5 times the opening for my RF plate clearance if I start it from the end of the firebox but it will be much easier to make a clean cut with the plasma.

2012-10-11_11-30-56_753.jpg

• wildman9136
• Oct 11, 2012

 

[wildman9136]

Had about an hour after work today and got some temporary legs on it. Starting to look like a smoker now.

2012-10-11_18-09-23_548.jpg

• wildman9136
• Oct 11, 2012

 

[scarbelly]

Moving along nicely 

 

[wildman9136]

First of all thanks to Dave and everyone for the help and thank you all for the wealth of knowledge on this forum. I am getting excited now as the smoker is getting close to actually being a smoker.

Got a bit more done today. Now all I need are grates, plates, pipes, vents and latches. Will have a couple of questions and pictures when I get home.

 

[jarjarchef]

Good looking project....

 

[wildman9136]

Here are the latest pics, I couldn't find anything laying around the shop to use for a handle but a length of chain so.......I welded it together, kinda hokey but it works for now. I used 1/8 inch flat bar for the door but to get the door to close with out hanging up it looks like i'm going to have to attach the new barrel type hinges to the flat bar. Do ya'll think the 1/8 inch will be strong enough or should I put some 1/4 in there?

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• wildman9136
• Oct 12, 2012

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• wildman9136
• Oct 12, 2012

Here is the chain handle...come on, tell me how goofy it looks.

2012-10-12_18-27-02_991.jpg

• wildman9136
• Oct 12, 2012

Per the BBQ calculator if I would have set the FB any lower my opening would have been too small. I am going to put a piece of 3" angle on the FB to attach the RF plate to so I can get a good angle for drainage. It's going to be less than 1.5 times the opening so I hope it will work properly.

 

[daveomak]

Wildman, evening..... I can't tell for sure, but did you put the pivot point of the hinge directly above the cut for the door ??  If you did, move the pivot point back to the edge of the door seal...  The door seal won't hang up if done like that...   Dave

Hinge and Pin (2).jpg

• daveomak
• Oct 12, 2012

 

[wildman9136]

Good point Dave I didn't think of that. I've got some new barrel hinges I was thinking of going with because of the cleaner look. I am just worried that the 1/8' flat bar that i'm using for the door seal might be a little flimsy for the barrel hinges. If I stick with the hinges I have now, moving them would solve the problem and work better on the 1/8' flat bar but the pivot holes are a little sloppy. Hmmmmmm decisions, decisions.

 

[daveomak]

Good point Dave I didn't think of that. I've got some new barrel hinges I was thinking of going with because of the cleaner look. I am just worried that the 1/8' flat bar that i'm using for the door seal might be a little flimsy for the barrel hinges. If I stick with the hinges I have now, moving them would solve the problem and work better on the 1/8' flat bar but the pivot holes are a little sloppy. Hmmmmmm decisions, decisions.

Put a bigger pin in them..... Grind off the head and go for it....  Dave

 

[wildman9136]

Yet again, another good point Dave. I was using 1/2 bolts but I could turn the exact size pin on the lathe. One more question before I hit the sack. The tank was an old air compressor tank. With that being said, I have already used degreaser and pressure washed it out to remove any old oil residue. I am also going to sandblast the inside to remove any old rust. Do I still need to do a burnout before seasoning?

 

[daveomak]

Kenny, morning.... To be on the safe side, a burnout would be a good idea.... If you can get the cook chamber up to 450-500 deg, (higher than you would ever use it), any volatiles that were in the smoker would be gone.... You would probably feel better knowing that had been done...  Especially when you put that first rib on a kids plate, yours or someone else's child...   

About the hinge... Here is an alternative to use the Bbl hinge... cut out the door seal where the hinge goes.... for strength, a thicker piece of material can be welded in where it was removed... If you extend the metal piece, that is welded to the door, past the air seal by 1/4" or so, you can weld in the barrel hinge...

I have built a few things and ran into more "design flaws" than you can imagine.... I hate building stuff twice....    As long as you can learn, there are no mistakes.... only valuable learning experiences....   Dave

Bbl Hinge Install.jpg

• daveomak
• Oct 13, 2012