Masterbuilt Vertical 2 door Smoker Mods

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I found a square cast iron pan on Amazon that fits perfectly. Except, I switched to a tube smoker. I found that I had a hard time keeping the wood smoking at lower temps for salmon and cheese. Additionally, the chunks don’t burn consistently, causing your temps to fluctuate. I filled my pan with sand and moved the tube outside the cabinet. Things are more stable now.
 
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Here's the wind blockers. Came out way better than I expected! Think I'll make a cover for the frypan to prohibit the wood chunks from catching fire at high heat. I think I'll wanna start off on high to get the chunks lit, then turn the heat down to the smoking temp i need depending on the goods I put in to smoke. Thanks to all for your pics and advice. C'mon summer!!!!!
 
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Here's the wind blockers. Came out way better than I expected! Think I'll make a cover for the frypan to prohibit the wood chunks from catching fire at high heat. I think I'll wanna start off on high to get the chunks lit, then turn the heat down to the smoking temp i need depending on the goods I put in to smoke. Thanks to all for your pics and advice. C'mon summer!!!!!
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Here's what I came up with for a top to the frypan/wood chunk holder. I used the tray that came with the rig, just flipped it upside down and attached it with a store-bought hinge, and one of my own design. The round piece is aluminum bar stock, split lengthwise with a hole thru it to wrap around the crossbar, held on with 2 hose clamps. Used the pan because it's taller, can get some bigger chunks in the pan. Plus I can adjust the pan to either close the top completely (pic 3), or turn the pan a bit so that I can set the propping-open tab on the pour spout of the frypan.
 
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A newbie question: With the smoke tube inside the smoker, what happens to the ash from the pellets? What about using 1/8" hardware cloth to make a smoke tube? Not cheap but I have the hardware cloth on hand and could roll my own.

Question for Omar1951, That looks like your wife's pie pan? How has it worked for you and do you get enough smoke wihout extra holes for air?
 
A newbie question: With the smoke tube inside the smoker, what happens to the ash from the pellets? What about using 1/8" hardware cloth to make a smoke tube? Not cheap but I have the hardware cloth on hand and could roll my own.

Question for Omar1951, That looks like your wife's pie pan? How has it worked for you and do you get enough smoke wihout extra holes for air?
Haven't tried it yet. Like I mentioned, the top is actually the bottom of the original chip/chunk pan. And if you notice, I can prop the top open a bit if I find I'm not getting enough air to keep the chips/chunks lit. If they do go out, even with the top propped open, I'll put some holes in the top to allow for more air.
 
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A newbie question: With the smoke tube inside the smoker, what happens to the ash from the pellets? What about using 1/8" hardware cloth to make a smoke tube? Not cheap but I have the hardware cloth on hand and could roll my own.

The ash stays in the tube, until you move it…

They are pretty inexpensive on Amazon or your local BBQ shop. Not worth building one. I have two for long smokes. One burning, one loaded and ready.
 
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View attachment 492946View attachment 492947
Here's the wind blockers. Came out way better than I expected! Think I'll make a cover for the frypan to prohibit the wood chunks from catching fire at high heat. I think I'll wanna start off on high to get the chunks lit, then turn the heat down to the smoking temp i need depending on the goods I put in to smoke. Thanks to all for your pics and advice. C'mon summer!!!!!
I have an 8" :Lodge CI pan which fits perfectly in the ring that held the chip pan. I use the cover from the chip pan on top of the CI skillet. I also use chips and chunks in the skillet. This works out very well on longer low temp <250* cooks. The chips start producing smoke first and by the time they are finished the chunks kick in.
 
The easiest way is to mount a needle valve at the tank. You might find a pre-made assembly with some searching. You want a LOW PRESSURE assembly, not high pressure!

For DIY, this is just to give you an idea, and you need to make sure the parts will fit your smoker and are the correct size. If you have a good propane dealer, they should have all the fittings or a pre-made assembly. They can probably build it for you.

You will also need yellow teflon tape or other sealant for the fittings. After putting it together, turn on the propane and use 409 or other spray cleaner on the threads to check for bubbles that indicate you have a leak. If you have not done this kind of work, I can't recommend it. Propane is very dangerous.

The basics:

A regulator. A two-stage will give you consistent output as the tank pressure varies. This one also uses threads to attach a hose so you can insert the needle valve at the tank:


A needle valve:


A hose to go between the valve and the smoker. The smoker may already have a 3/8" flare for the original hose:


You will also need a brass 3/8" nipple, and probably a brass 3/8" FNPT to 3/8" flare adapter to attach the hose to the reg.

I hope this helps!
 
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The easiest way is to mount a needle valve at the tank. You might find a pre-made assembly with some searching. You want a LOW PRESSURE assembly, not high pressure!

For DIY, this is just to give you an idea, and you need to make sure the parts will fit your smoker and are the correct size. If you have a good propane dealer, they should have all the fittings or a pre-made assembly. They can probably build it for you.

You will also need yellow teflon tape or other sealant for the fittings. After putting it together, turn on the propane and use 409 or other spray cleaner on the threads to check for bubbles that indicate you have a leak. If you have not done this kind of work, I can't recommend it. Propane is very dangerous.

The basics:

A regulator. A two-stage will give you consistent output as the tank pressure varies. This one also uses threads to attach a hose so you can insert the needle valve at the tank:


A needle valve:


A hose to go between the valve and the smoker. The smoker may already have a 3/8" flare for the original hose:


You will also need a brass 3/8" nipple, and probably a brass 3/8" FNPT to 3/8" flare adapter to attach the hose to the reg.

I hope this helps!
Thanks for the reply. I actually converted mine to run on natural gas, so I get to skip the regulator etc. I am going to copy your set up and put the needle valve right below the factory valve. I dismantled mine and figured out the one part I was unsure of. The reducer needed to attach to my valve is 1/8” so I found a 1/8”-3/8” reducer online because in store options didn’t go smaller than 1/4”. I’ll post up pictures when I’m done. Thanks again.
 
Needle valve install complete and leak tested. I’m very happy with the fine tuning capabilities of it. Parts list: 1/8 MIP to 3/8 FIP reducer, 2 inch nipple, needle valve, 90 degree 3/8 mip to 3/8 flare.
 

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Looks great. It’s the best mod you can make for these smokers. Which in turn leads to more mods…
 
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