Masterbuilt heating element replacement????

[dr k]

I may look for a 1200 watt just to keep on hand.

 

[Ksmithsmoker]

yeah i hate to buy a lower wattage element for more money, just seems wrong. but it would more or less make it work. will have to think on it. approx 3 amp less, quite a bit when it comes to heating.

 

[Ksmithsmoker]

800 watt is available....

thanks for the info

 

[jeffbeck]

Well, I wish I had come here before now. I'm on my second replacement element kit from Masterbuilt for my MES 40. Smoker went out initially almost exactly 11 months after purchase (which meant I had a turkey ready to smoke for Thanksgiving when it crapped out the first time). It was tripping the gfci circuit continually.

Ordered replacement element kit - worked for roughly 11 months again. Went out a few days prior to Father's Day this year.

Just ordered another kit last week and should be here this week. Now I need to go and check if the wires are burned off or not. The first time they weren't burned off. The darn thing just quit working. They had every reason in the book as to why it isn't working and keeps breaking down. They figure that it's just somehow my fault. Sigh. They want to know how much water I use in the pan. I'm pretty sure If I said I kept it full, they'd tell me that's way too much. If I said about halfway, that wouldn't be enough. There were a few other scenarios, as well. All leading back to "user error" and there's just no way that this element/wiring is a known weak point. At least that's how it felt to me.

Anyway - I'll check on the wiring when I get home. I really like this smoker except for the fact that it keeps breaking down!

 

[daveomak]

Are you using an extension cord on the smoker ???

 

[jeffbeck]

Are you using an extension cord on the smoker ???

Nope. Straight to the outlet.

If it wasn't so easy to use - when it's functioning - I'd have taken it out and shot it.

 

[Ksmithsmoker]

Well, I wish I had come here before now. I'm on my second replacement element kit from Masterbuilt for my MES 40. Smoker went out initially almost exactly 11 months after purchase (which meant I had a turkey ready to smoke for Thanksgiving when it crapped out the first time). It was tripping the gfci circuit continually.

Ordered replacement element kit - worked for roughly 11 months again. Went out a few days prior to Father's Day this year.

Just ordered another kit last week and should be here this week. Now I need to go and check if the wires are burned off or not. The first time they weren't burned off. The darn thing just quit working. They had every reason in the book as to why it isn't working and keeps breaking down. They figure that it's just somehow my fault. Sigh. They want to know how much water I use in the pan. I'm pretty sure If I said I kept it full, they'd tell me that's way too much. If I said about halfway, that wouldn't be enough. There were a few other scenarios, as well. All leading back to "user error" and there's just no way that this element/wiring is a known weak point. At least that's how it felt to me.

Anyway - I'll check on the wiring when I get home. I really like this smoker except for the fact that it keeps breaking down!

i found on my smoker there is a half inch gap in the sheet metal covering the element, and the element literally blew out on the side. when i can get me a new element there will be a added piece of sheet metal to cover that half inch gap.

 

[jeffbeck]

Well, I had a box from Masterbuilt show up today! So, when it finally dropped down to the low 90s tonight I went out and got to work.

Here's what I got in the box for anyone that's curious as to what these replacement kits include:

Here's what I found when I removed the back panel:

Yup...connectors had burned clean off the blades. Makes me glad this is outdoor equipment! Here's a better look at the wires:

Check out where the panel gasket burned through:

So, I had no choice but to break out the soldering iron. I don't mind rewiring a guitar but for some reason I didn't want to mess with this. No options, though.

Those blobs of liquid under the soldering iron are both puddles of sweat. Kentucky is a steamy branch of Hell in the summer, and summer doesn't even start until Thursday. That's why we have beer. And bourbon. Numbs the pain.

Got it all wired up and finished off with electrical tape and it's working like a charm now. Came right on and started heating up immediately. Am I going to smoke this weekend? You bet your fannies I am. Just have to decide what it'll be. Leaning toward ribs.

Anyway - my saga has ended for now. I figure I've got about 11 months until the damn thing craps out again. I'll just have to squeeze as much life out of it as I can in the meantime. Hopefully this helps someone out a little bit someday.

 

[Ksmithsmoker]

Well, I had a box from Masterbuilt show up today! So, when it finally dropped down to the low 90s tonight I went out and got to work.

Here's what I got in the box for anyone that's curious as to what these replacement kits include:
View attachment 367973

Here's what I found when I removed the back panel:
View attachment 367974

Yup...connectors had burned clean off the blades. Makes me glad this is outdoor equipment! Here's a better look at the wires:
View attachment 367975

Check out where the panel gasket burned through:
View attachment 367978

So, I had no choice but to break out the soldering iron. I don't mind rewiring a guitar but for some reason I didn't want to mess with this. No options, though.
View attachment 367976

Those blobs of liquid under the soldering iron are both puddles of sweat. Kentucky is a steamy branch of Hell in the summer, and summer doesn't even start until Thursday. That's why we have beer. And bourbon. Numbs the pain.

Got it all wired up and finished off with electrical tape and it's working like a charm now. Came right on and started heating up immediately. Am I going to smoke this weekend? You bet your fannies I am. Just have to decide what it'll be. Leaning toward ribs.

Anyway - my saga has ended for now. I figure I've got about 11 months until the damn thing craps out again. I'll just have to squeeze as much life out of it as I can in the meantime. Hopefully this helps someone out a little bit someday.

did you get the 1200 watt or the 800 watt?? going to smoke some mutton??? miss kentucky food. now texan.

 

[jeffbeck]

did you get the 1200 watt or the 800 watt?? going to smoke some mutton??? miss kentucky food. now texan.

Hmmm. You know, I don't know which one I got. I wasn't aware there was a choice, actually. Is there a good/easy way for me to see which one I got?

They knew it was for a 40" so maybe it's the 1200?

 

[diythinker]

My heating element went out too, i replaced it and it worked. One interesting thing is instead of an open circuit, it tripped the breaker shorting to ground. I documented why and drew out the wiring diagram:

 

[daveomak]

Great video.... Thank you... Many members will find it very useful.....

 

[tempnexus]

Mine just started tripping. How can I test it if it's the wires or the element?

 

[daveomak]

Remove the inspection cover and look then wiggle the wires... If they seem corroded, you can clean everything with sandpaper and solder all the connections... That will eliminate a place for corrosion to start... If you crimp, use an anti oxidation grease...

 

[dr k]

Mine just started tripping. How can I test it if it's the wires or the element?

If you unplug smoker and disconnect the wires to the element and then plug in and turn on, if it doesnt trip it would be the element most likely or wires to the element. When unplugged and wires are disconnected from the element, if you check continuity from one element leg around to the inside of the smoker touching the metal outside element jacket there should not be continuity.

 

[tempnexus]

Mine just started tripping. How can I test it if it's the wires or the element?

If you unplug smoker and disconnect the wires to the element and then plug in and turn on, if it doesnt trip it would be the element most likely or wires to the element. When unplugged and wires are disconnected from the element, if you check continuity from one element leg around to the inside of the smoker touching the metal outside element jacket there should not be continuity.

Sorry for the delay.
I was able to run the continuity testing and pole to pole between elements it's 18 Ohms. When cables are connected it's 20 Ohms (makes sense it takes extra length of the cable). Now what doesn't make sense is the resistance between the pole and the grounding screw that's 14 Ohms...the same between the pole and the back side of the smoker (The exposed metal chassis) it's also 14 Ohms? Shouldn't there be no connection between the heating poles and the chassis?

 

[dr k]

Mine just started tripping. How can I test it if it's the wires or the element?

Sorry for the delay.
I was able to run the continuity testing and pole to pole between elements it's 18 Ohms. When cables are connected it's 20 Ohms (makes sense it takes extra length of the cable). Now what doesn't make sense is the resistance between the pole and the grounding screw that's 14 Ohms...the same between the pole and the back side of the smoker (The exposed metal chassis) it's also 14 Ohms? Shouldn't there be no connection between the heating poles and the chassis?

Yes it looks like the element is leaking to ground because you have continuity to ground/chassis. I tested my spare element before intalling it so I went spade to anywhere on the element other than the other spade with no continuity. Your element male spade to male spade is correct at 18 ohms but that doesn't mean there is isnt a short from the outside element casing to spade. A new element is needed. I believe there is a seam on the bottom of the element so grease would be a conductor to short the element. I flipped my Gen 1 40 element for even heating, not necessary for the 30s so it also is under a drip pan so no drips on it even down the back wall to the unheated legs that won't burn it off. Thee original element is

a back up spare.

 

[Zachary Wilson]

Hello everybody, first time poster here. I’m from Northern California and I’ve been running a MES 40 20070311 model for about 2 years now and until about yesterday it was a solid unit. Running the usual setup (extension cord, same outlet, max 275 degree temp setting) I started noticing that the smoker wouldn’t get past 240-250degrees from the control panel, 250-270 on my external thermometer, then after 10 minutes or so the the burner element would seem to “shutoff” and temp would start dropping dramatically.


I opened up the back panel to look at the burner element wires and the black shrink tubing covers are charred and crisped. Seems they overheated and burned out (thinking from a weak extension cord...will be plugging into wall directly from now on) I did my best to remove and clean up the burned connections on both sides. The burner element spades and the wire spades are still intact and physically ok so I cleaned them up and hooked them back together as they were before (no heat tape just plugged male into female). I closed up the panel, plugged the smoker back directly into the wall and fired it up to max 275 degrees.


Now lies the problem...after about a minute or two the back panel where the burner element wires are located got extremely hot to the touch, to the point it seemed unsafe. No other part of the smoker was even warm on the back side but the wire panel was hot hot hot. What’s the problem here? Do I need to do a better job reconnecting the spades, cover them with heat tape, etc? Do a full replace job of the spade connects with high heat versions like this message board suggests? Or does it look like the burner element is failing? Or D, all of the above?


Sorry for the winded message, thought I needed to lay out the details.

Please let me know if you have any thoughts or ideas on the issue.


Thanks, appreciate it


Best,

Zack

 

[dr k]

Hello everybody, first time poster here. I’m from Northern California and I’ve been running a MES 40 20070311 model for about 2 years now and until about yesterday it was a solid unit. Running the usual setup (extension cord, same outlet, max 275 degree temp setting) I started noticing that the smoker wouldn’t get past 240-250degrees from the control panel, 250-270 on my external thermometer, then after 10 minutes or so the the burner element would seem to “shutoff” and temp would start dropping dramatically.


I opened up the back panel to look at the burner element wires and the black shrink tubing covers are charred and crisped. Seems they overheated and burned out (thinking from a weak extension cord...will be plugging into wall directly from now on) I did my best to remove and clean up the burned connections on both sides. The burner element spades and the wire spades are still intact and physically ok so I cleaned them up and hooked them back together as they were before (no heat tape just plugged male into female). I closed up the panel, plugged the smoker back directly into the wall and fired it up to max 275 degrees.


Now lies the problem...after about a minute or two the back panel where the burner element wires are located got extremely hot to the touch, to the point it seemed unsafe. No other part of the smoker was even warm on the back side but the wire panel was hot hot hot. What’s the problem here? Do I need to do a better job reconnecting the spades, cover them with heat tape, etc? Do a full replace job of the spade connects with high heat versions like this message board suggests? Or does it look like the burner element is failing? Or D, all of the above?


Sorry for the winded message, thought I needed to lay out the details.

Please let me know if you have any thoughts or ideas on the issue.


Thanks, appreciate it


Best,

Zack

With a 6 ft power cord on the Mes its tough to find a location you want to smoke at without an extension cord and you can't get it the recommended 10 feet from a building. I have a 12' 1875 watt 14/3 guage appliance extension cord that reads 121Vac on the female end I plug my Mes 20070311 into. The original Mes lugs failed after 11 months. The Mes lugs have one crimp to hold the lug to the wire insulation and one tiny crimp on the wire for power. With aluminum, copper and steel metals that alum oxide corrosion, heating and cooling increases resistance which increased heat until it disintegrates which its trying to do until you have a bare wire sticking up in the air. After disconnecting the element wires if you have 12 ohms on the element legs and no continuity on one leg to chasis/ground then the element is good. You can solder the wires right to the element spades or get the high heat quick disconnect lugs to solder to, to keep oxygen from oxidizing/corroding the joint. I dont heat shrink the lugs themselves and I peeled the rubber off the cover plate to stretch over the cover screw heads. I peel one side open periodically when the smoker is unplugged to inspect. I always lean a piece of plywood against the back of the smoker to cover power cord and element access from splashes from rain or anything hitting the back of the smoker just for quick access and the holes are stripping from checking connections so leaving the screws in place and stretching rubber over screw heads works well.

 

[Zachary Wilson]

With a 6 ft power cord on the Mes its tough to find a location you want to smoke at without an extension cord and you can't get it the recommended 10 feet from a building. I have a 12' 1875 watt 14/3 guage appliance extension cord that reads 121Vac on the female end I plug my Mes 20070311 into. The original Mes lugs failed after 11 months. The Mes lugs have one crimp to hold the lug to the wire insulation and one tiny crimp on the wire for power. With aluminum, copper and steel metals that alum oxide corrosion, heating and cooling increases resistance which increased heat until it disintegrates which its trying to do until you have a bare wire sticking up in the air. After disconnecting the element wires if you have 12 ohms on the element legs and no continuity on one leg to chasis/ground then the element is good. You can solder the wires right to the element spades or get the high heat quick disconnect lugs to solder to, to keep oxygen from oxidizing/corroding the joint. I dont heat shrink the lugs themselves and I peeled the rubber off the cover plate to stretch over the cover screw heads. I peel one side open periodically when the smoker is unplugged to inspect. I always lean a piece of plywood against the back of the smoker to cover power cord and element access from splashes from rain or anything hitting the back of the smoker just for quick access and the holes are stripping from checking connections so leaving the screws in place and stretching rubber over screw heads works well.

Thanks for the reply dr k. Good to know about the extension cord, I have a 25ft 10 gauge so making the assumption it is sufficient. Also love the plywood shelter idea, stealin* that!

I have the two cleaned wires connected back to the element legs and I crimped the connection with pliers to ensure it was a tight fit connection. I fired the smoker back up but unfortunately it still heats up to about 230 degrees then cools down even with the red heating light still going. Guessing it’s a bad heating element? Going to get a replacement and hopefully that gets it back up and running again. Any ideas or thoughts on the issue would be appreciated. Thanks again


Best,

Zack