Large Smokehouse build

[aboswell]

Good morning all!
I am new to posting on this site but spend a lot of time browsing and reading. Great information in this brotherhood of meat smoking.
I am in the process of building a large smokehouse. It will be sitting on an insulated concrete slab. I am going back and forth about a stick build or block build. I live in ND and need to be able to smoke outside during the winter months. This smoker needs to be able to hold 500# of sausage at a time. I would like to use propane as the heat source, and ideally have some kind of temp regulator installed. Any suggestions would be greatly appreciated!

 

[civilsmoker]

Having spent a little time in ND, I would suggest fully insulated in some fashion. Second if using gas (closed or semi enclosed fire box), I would strongly advise a gas safety valve integrated with a pilot/thermocouple. Doing anything with gas and an enclosed (or semi enclosed) space should be done properly with no short cuts (life safety thing).

Good luck and post sketches/pics as you go!

 

[lamar]

+1

 

[smokerjim]

I think in my opinion you'll be better off with block,

 

[Brokenhandle]

I think in my opinion you'll be better off with block,

I'm with Jim, and probably fill with sand

Ryan

 

[SmokinEdge]

You mean something like these, designed by North Dakota State University?

 

[pineywoods]

Block filled with sand may work not sure what kind of R value that would give you. You could also build it with 2x6's and get 5" of insulation in it or even 2x8 and go for 7". Another idea for your heat might be a heating element out of a range and a PID controller you would need a few other components but there are members here that can tell you what you need and how to do it but it would require require running 220 to it but may be cheaper to run that way as well

 

[civilsmoker]

Block filled with sand may work not sure what kind of R value that would give you. You could also build it with 2x6's and get 5" of insulation in it or even 2x8 and go for 7". Another idea for your heat might be a heating element out of a range and a PID controller you would need a few other components but there are members here that can tell you what you need and how to do it but it would require require running 220 to it but may be cheaper to run that way as well

Just to add to this, since you said 500 lbs at a time not sure you are doing this commercially or hobby but that is a considerable load.

Since you will have a insulated concrete bottom, you could frame up the shack with 2x6 (or 8) metal studs, then rivet (stainless) up some thin gauge stainless sheet then skin it with metal siding after its stuff full of rockwool. Then you could use an 220 oven element or a properly designed gas. This would be the cats meow!

PS, you could also do a second FB for burning sticks as an alternate if you wanted as well. That would be way cool.

 

[aboswell]

Just to add to this, since you said 500 lbs at a time not sure you are doing this commercially or hobby but that is a considerable load.

Since you will have a insulated concrete bottom, you could frame up the shack with 2x6 (or 8) metal studs, then rivet (stainless) up some thin gauge stainless sheet then skin it with metal siding after its stuff full of rockwool. Then you could use an 220 oven element or a properly designed gas. This would be the cats meow!

PS, you could also do a second FB for burning sticks as an alternate if you wanted as well. That would be way cool.

Great idea. I never thought about the metal studs.

 

[aboswell]

Block filled with sand may work not sure what kind of R value that would give you. You could also build it with 2x6's and get 5" of insulation in it or even 2x8 and go for 7". Another idea for your heat might be a heating element out of a range and a PID controller you would need a few other components but there are members here that can tell you what you need and how to do it but it would require require running 220 to it but may be cheaper to run that way as well

Thank you for the idea of going electric. I was thinking propane but the electric would be safer and probably easier to control heat. I do have 220 in the building this will be next to.

 

[SmokinEdge]

Are you going to be cold smoking? Or warm smoking? Will you be doing any hot smoking, or cooking with smoke?
I run a wooden 3x3x7 propane smokehouse in the mountains of Colorado. I don’t have the wind like you do, but I have no problems making sausage or any cured product all winter long, I have no insulation but a thermal break inside, like a false wall is all you need on the perimeter. This works just like a double pane window.

loading 500# at a time will create some challenges with condensation. Venting will have to be well thought out as well as exhaust, don’t pipe it through the roof, the condensation droplets mixed with creosote will drip on the meat.

Stanley Marianski’s book: Meat Smoking and Smokehouse Design. Would be a good read for you.
Tejas smokers.com would be my source for a propane burner. A visit with them would be well worth your while now in the planning stages. They are very knowledgeable and can get your heat all figured out, they even do pipe burners if you go that route.

 

[chopsaw]

What size is large ?
What temps you running at ?

If you go with block , get a loose fill masonry insulation . Like Vermiculite spec'd for wall cavity insulation . Not sand . Sand settles , holds moisture and also aids in transfer of outside conditions thru the masonry .

Depending on the size of the structure , you'll need to think about structural integrity . Slushing block cavity full every 4' .
Again , I don't know what size " large " is .

Adjust your wall height to include a double 2 x top plate for a nailer to attach the roof members . If your not going to use sheet goods to finish the inside it won't matter .

If you go with metal stud framing ,
Metal on metal transfers and holds cold temps .
Depending on the size you'll need lateral bracing , and a diagonal brace in the corners .
Wood nailer at the top if using wood truss . If using metal truss you don't need the wood .
Use a building wrap that is both a moisture barrier and a radiant barrier .
Don't use craft faced insulation with building wrap . It can trap moisture . Use an unfaced thermal when using building wrap .
Metal studs , plywood and corrugated panels on the outside makes a nice structure .

 

[aboswell]

Are you going to be cold smoking? Or warm smoking? Will you be doing any hot smoking, or cooking with smoke?
I run a wooden 3x3x7 propane smokehouse in the mountains of Colorado. I don’t have the wind like you do, but I have no problems making sausage or any cured product all winter long, I have no insulation but a thermal break inside, like a false wall is all you need on the perimeter. This works just like a double pane window.

loading 500# at a time will create some challenges with condensation. Venting will have to be well thought out as well as exhaust, don’t pipe it through the roof, the condensation droplets mixed with creosote will drip on the meat.

Stanley Marianski’s book: Meat Smoking and Smokehouse Design. Would be a good read for you.
Tejas smokers.com would be my source for a propane burner. A visit with them would be well worth your while now in the planning stages. They are very knowledgeable and can get your heat all figured out, they even do pipe burners if you go that route.

I will be cold smoking and hot smoking. I’m not sure I will do 500# at a time but I would prefer to build bigger just in case. During deer season it’s not uncommon for us to put up 300# of sausage in a weekend. Most is summer sausage. We do make other sausage that is fresh with a light smoke.
Thank you for the suggestions, I will definitely look into them.
What do you use for temp control for your burner?

 

[SmokinEdge]

What do you use for temp control for your burner?

A needle valve and a watchful eye. I run a turkey fryer for a burner with a cast iron skillet on top as a heat diffuser and place wood chunks in it to produce smoke.

 

[aboswell]

What size is large ?
What temps you running at ?

If you go with block , get a loose fill masonry insulation . Like Vermiculite spec'd for wall cavity insulation . Not sand . Sand settles , holds moisture and also aids in transfer of outside conditions thru the masonry .

Depending on the size of the structure , you'll need to think about structural integrity . Slushing block cavity full every 4' .
Again , I don't know what size " large " is .

Adjust your wall height to include a double 2 x top plate for a nailer to attach the roof members . If your not going to use sheet goods to finish the inside it won't matter .

If you go with metal stud framing ,
Metal on metal transfers and holds cold temps .
Depending on the size you'll need lateral bracing , and a diagonal brace in the corners .
Wood nailer at the top if using wood truss . If using metal truss you don't need the wood .
Use a building wrap that is both a moisture barrier and a radiant barrier .
Don't use craft faced insulation with building wrap . It can trap moisture . Use an unfaced thermal when using building wrap .
Metal studs , plywood and corrugated panels on the outside makes a nice structure .

I am thinking about 6x6x7 with a peaked roof

 

[chopsaw]

I am thinking about 6x6x7 with a peaked roof

OK . Have you decided on block or stick build ?

 

[SmokinEdge]

I will be cold smoking and hot smoking. I’m not sure I will do 500# at a time but I would prefer to build bigger just in case. During deer season it’s not uncommon for us to put up 300# of sausage in a weekend. Most is summer sausage. We do make other sausage that is fresh with a light smoke.
Thank you for the suggestions, I will definitely look into them.
What do you use for temp control for your burner?

Personally, I wouldn’t build the smokehouse any bigger than absolutely necessary. Heat becomes an issue. Cinder block will and can make that even a bigger problem. The block act as a heat sink (takes a long time and lots of energy to get warm), and they absorb moisture, which makes that problem worse for hot smoking. These are not a problem with cold smoking.

I would build a wooden smokehouse. Sheet the outside with CDX plywood and build a false wall inside with a thermal break from the outside wall. You can line this interior wall with steel roofing panels or use cement board, the hardi-backer type that is 1/4” thick Is good. Leave a 1” gap at the bottom and top for air circulation.
3x3 or 4x4 is as big as I would build for home production. Beyond that equalizing heat becomes a problem (hot spots). The solid sheeting on the outside will stop the wind draft issues you could have. The thermal break will solve the negative temperature problem. This size frame will allow options for electric burners or propane as well as traditional firebox. A walk in sized box is a whole other animal.

 

[daveomak]

Block will cost you a fortune to heat up... I built a 42x48x10' with a poured roof with hangers in it and insulated door... It took 12+ hours to get to smoking temp....
You will not be happy...

 

[aboswell]

OK . Have you decided on block or stick build ?

I am going to go with stick built. And insulated walls and roof. From all the other comments block would not be a good option

 

[ryber2003]

I am going to go with stick built. And insulated walls and roof. From all the other comments block would not be a good option

I'm also from ND. I just got done building a 10x10 stick frame with 2x6 walls. Converted a propane 75k btu furnace for heat source. Works great.