Input requested...

[bradalt76]

So I've acquired an old molasses barrel to start my first build and before I go any further, I need some things clarified. So if I may impose on your knowledge, I thank you in advance. I will start with a couple (bunch) of my questions, and with a little luck, get this thing going for Memorial Day.

I have viewed a lot of others photos and have noticed a piece of black iron pipe going up the side. Is this for air intake? Is there any magic length and is 1 inch sufficient? Ball valve high or low? What's the deal with the other intakes on the bottom that are capped off?

How about grate placement? How far up from the bottom should the coal basket be? Planning 4 grates, 1 for coals, 1 for water pan and diffuser and 2 for cooking. Any concerns I should have?

How do you add fuel if you run out? I am thinking of a door on the bottom of some sort. Any ideas? Maybe another a little higher for the water pan. Necessary?

I am using the lid from my Weber kettle. Is the single vent in the top going to be enough to create a draft? I still have to get the barrel clean but it's still a little cold out. Is the paint removal necessary on the outside of the barrel? That's all I can think of right now? I'm sure as soon as I post, I'll think of something else. Feel free to add any other info or thoughts you may have. Thanks again.

Brad

 

[chiefusn]

Brad,

First off welcome to the forums. I too am in the process of building my first UDS's. I have been doing a lot of research and have come across a ton of cool ideas as well as some stuff that I had to ask questions about because they weren't explained very well.

I have viewed a lot of others photos and have noticed a piece of black iron pipe going up the side. Is this for air intake?

Yes. It is not needed however folks will put these on so they don't have to bend over to adjust airflow. Convenience factor.

Is there any magic length and is 1 inch sufficient?

No magic length from what I have read, just do not extend past the top of the drum. This has to deal with flow of the heat (heat rises). You want your exhaust to be higher than your intakes. Again, from what I have read, as the heat exits the drum, it creates a vacuum drawing air in at the bottom. If the intakes are extended past the exhaust, it contradicts its self and you'll have issues with maintaining temps. 1" is more than sufficient. Most (as well as myself) go with three 3/4" intakes with one of them being a ball valve.

Ball valve high or low?

Doesn't matter. Again, just don't go past the top of the drum.

What's the deal with the other intakes on the bottom that are capped off?

These are also intakes and depending on what temp ranges you're looking to cook at depends on if you have them open or closed. On a three intake system for example, for a 225° you might have one cap open and one cap closed and adjust the ball valve to the desired temp. On higher temp smokes, you might need both caps off and adjust ball valve to maintain temps. It's a matter of learning your UDS and going from there.

How about grate placement? How far up from the bottom should the coal basket be? Planning 4 grates, 1 for coals, 1 for water pan and diffuser and 2 for cooking. Any concerns I should have?

From what I have gathered, it depends on if you're using a dome lid or a flat lid. Flat lid setups usually have the first cooking grate 7" down from the top of the drum lip. with a second 7" below that. If using a dome lid, you can have the first rack closer to the top of the drum (2-3") with other rack 7-8" below that. The coal basket should have a 2-3" clearance from the bottom to allow for ash to fall through and not restrict airflow to the rest of the coals. You'll find that using a diffuser/water pan is a mixed opinion. Some say it's needed and some say it's not. It really depends on the UDS. There is a really good thread about this in this forum section.

How do you add fuel if you run out? I am thinking of a door on the bottom of some sort. Any ideas? Maybe another a little higher for the water pan. Necessary?

If built right, a UDS will run for 16-20 hrs depending on how much coal you put in it and what temps you're cooking at. Most do not have any doors on them cause they are not needed and pose a problem with air leaks.

I am using the lid from my Weber kettle. Is the single vent in the top going to be enough to create a draft?

Should be. I am using the same lid and plan on using the stock vent at first and see how it goes.

Is the paint removal necessary on the outside of the barrel?

Not sure on this one. I removed it on my drums but only because I want to do some custom paint jobs. It takes a lot of heat to get the old paint off (at least on mine it did) and I don't think smoking temps will do it.

Hope this helps you out and gets you going. I'm sure some of the more seasoned (pun intended) folks will chime in and correct me if I have been misinformed.

Chad

 

[DanMcG]

Great answers Chad, I got one in the works also and I'll try to post some pic's and info if and when I get it started

 

[bradalt76]

Thanks, Chad!

This is what I needed. I picked up a couple grates today and all the stainless hardware. I was going to get the intake material but I have another question first. How far do the intake pipes go into the barrel toward the center? Or do they simply thread into the barell wall and thats it? Also, if I drill a lot of holes in an old wok, will it be a big enough charcoal basket?  Thanks again, everyone.

 

[desertlites]

Hey Brad, intakes just thread enough into drum to be secure, the trick to getting a drum to burn long hours is to use the minion method so having a large enough basket is key.hope this helps some. good luck on the build.