History of meat curing

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PolishDeli

Smoking Fanatic
Original poster
Oct 9, 2018
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There’s been some discussion about the history of nitrites and nitrates elsewhere on the forum.
I think it’s an interesting enough topic that it warrants it’s own thread.

The following is an good read, and comes from Keeton J.T. (2011) History of Nitrite and Nitrate in Food. In: Bryan N., Loscalzo J. (eds) Nitrite and Nitrate in Human Health and Disease. Nutrition and Health. Humana Press

In summary, reddening and tenderness of meats that were salted in certain regions was noticed back in ancient times across Europe and Asia. The industrial revolution ultimately allowed for an understanding of the process.

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In a review of the history of nitrate and nitrite in meat curing, Binkerd and Kolari concluded that salting as a means of meat preservation was first practiced in the deserts of Asia. Saline salts from this area contained impurities such as nitrates that contributed to the characteristic red color of cured meats. As early as 3,000 bc in Mesopotamia, cooked meats and fish were preserved in sesame oil and dried, salted meat and fish were part of the Summerian diet. Salt from the Dead Sea was in common use by Jewish inhabitants around 1,600 bc, and by 1,200 bc, the Phoenicians were trading salted fish in the Eastern Mediterranean region. By 900 bc, salt was being produced in “salt gardens” in Greece and dry salt curing and smoking of meat were well established. The Romans (200 bc) acquired curing procedures from the Greeks and further developed techniques to “pickle” various kinds of meats in a brine marinade. It was during this time that the reddening effect of salting was noted. Saltpeter (potassium nitrate) is mentioned as being gathered in China and India prior to the Christian era for use in meat curing along with “wall” saltpeter (calcium nitrate), which is formed by nitrifying bacteria and deposited on the walls of caves and stables. In Medieval times, the application of salt and saltpeter as curing ingredients was commonplace and the reddening effect on meat was attributed to saltpeter.

As early as 1835, saltpeter was cited as imparting juiciness and flavor to bacon when applied at 0.5 lb per 100 lb of meat (5,000 ppm or mg/kg). In 1873, Edward Smith described salt as “the oldest and best known of preserving agents…its chief action appears to be due to its power of attracting moisture, and thus extracting fluid to harden the tissues.” He further described the development of a “reddish color throughout” in meat preserved with saltpeter as compared to preservation by salt alone, which allowed the meat color to fade. Meat curing was more of an art than a science in the early nineteenth century, but as a greater understanding of the curing process evolved in the late 1800s and early 1900s, the role of nitrate and nitrite in the formation of cured meat color and flavor became apparent.
 
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