Here we go!

[Craig Ward]

All loaded up for a burn day tomorrow! The barrels used to hold yogurt, so they have a thin coating on the inside.

 

[kruizer]

Are you sure that coating is not a plastic of some sort?

 

[Craig Ward]

I don't think so, it chips off and is bubbling in spots. Seems to me like a thin coat of paint

 

[Craig Ward]

I'll know as soon as the burn starts I guess....

 

[pc farmer]

Burn out good and hot then I used a sanding type disc on a 4 inch grinder to really make sure all was off. I had the thick orange liner thou.

 

[smokinq13]

I'd say it'd have to have some sort of plastic coating in it to keep the product from touching bare metal. Kind of like how soda cans have a thin plastic lining to act like a barrel of the actual can itself. But even if it does a good hot burn and scrap down should work!

 

[SecondHandSmoker]

Since these drums once stored yogurt, they are FDA approved which means the inside is coated with epoxy phenolic which can handle 400* F.

If it were me, I'd be grinding or sandblasting until I reached bare metal.

 

[Craig Ward]

If the coating can handle 400 degrees what would be the purpose of the burn out? Couldn't I just leave the coating alone and smoke in the barrel just fine?

 

[pc farmer]

When you burn out you will be way hotter then 400 degrees

 

[SecondHandSmoker]

You need to get that coating out of there. Leaving the coating in place and smoking will create toxic meat. When you burn it off, stay up wind. When you grind it off, wear a respirator and not a plain old dust mask. That crap will get into your lungs and stay forever.

 

[Mitch’s bitchin kitchen]

Hey looks like fun!
I just made my first uds out of a barrel that had strawberries in it. I had the same looking liner. I tried the fire also it took the out side paint off the barrel but the red liner wasn’t all the way burnt out. I took the grinder to it and that seemed to work but was a lot of work. I got to researching the inter webs and a lot of people having similar problems. I finally found a few guys saying to use Ajax the bleach cleaner and a sos pad. So I gave that a shot and it worked like magic for taking the liner out. Once I was happy with the bare metal inside I cleaned the in side and gave it a final once over with the grinder. Hope this helps!

 

[Mitch’s bitchin kitchen]

 

[fivetricks]

Wow, nice job. That looks like a lot of work

 

[Craig Ward]

Watch your barrel fires guys. I went inside for 10 minutes and the sidewalk block exploded and tipped the barrel over

 

[Craig Ward]

Going to need some input here. I ordered full port valves off of Amazon, they were 1/4 of the price of the valves at Home Depot and now I know why... Do you guys think they'll still work? I'll have 3 intakes per barrel...

 

[Craig Ward]

Also and update on the progress. Slow going due to alot of raining

 

[fivetricks]

Going to need some input here. I ordered full port valves off of Amazon, they were 1/4 of the price of the valves at Home Depot and now I know why... Do you guys think they'll still work? I'll have 3 intakes per barrel...

I think they will still work. But you will most likely find that you have to run more open valves than others to maintain temps. As in, I run anywhere from .5 - 1.75 valves open depending on cook temp, ambient temps, etc. But I may he wrong too! If it was me, I would use them without concern. If you start having problems you can always increase your draft with a longer chimney.

Sometimes on still days, I add a 3ft or so length of 4" pvc I have laying around to the bung port to increase draft when the winds simply aren't high enough.

 

[SmokinLogs]

Looks like you need to send those back. They look like reduced port ball valves.

 

[forktender]

I use four 1/2" ball valves and close two off once it gets going so you should be fine.