Harbor Freight Wood (Log) Splitter

[dave schiller]

I picked up the electric 5-ton unit today and have played with it a bit.  Anyone else out there have or have used one?  Seems to work well for what I'm using it for; making splits for my offset smoker.

Couple of observations.  The unit is low, which means raising it to a comfortable height is needed.  Also, it requires two hands to operate.  One to hold the motor switch and the other to operate the control lever.  This puts your face close to where the action is taking place.  The two-handed design is a safety feature, but I don't like my face so close.  I may play around with somehow making the controls accessible from a greater distance.

I have a question as well.  The instructions say to remove the bleed screw during operation so as not to build up pressure in the hydraulic system.  When I do this, oil squirts out on each return stroke.  So I operated it with the bleed screw a couple of turns loose.  Seems to work.  And the system is well within the marks on the dip stick.  Any comments?

 

[3montes]

I have one. Got it as a gift from my kids can't remember the brand name now. You are right about the 2 handed operation and height of the unit. I've been meaning to get a utility cart to put it on. It does the job but you got to keep a eye on it. The wedge in front should be taller. I've had some splits ride up and over the wedge and come flying off at a pretty good high rate of speed. with both hands operating the unit you can't block a split that might come flying at your face!

I turn the bleed screw out a few turns but don't take it all the way out. Works fine.

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I also have a gas powered 4 ton splitter but I don't always like to fire that up for just splitting a few logs so the electric get the job.

 

[dave schiller]

I sent a question to HF about the bleed screw and received a response within a couple of hours.  The HF tech said to open the bleed screw a couple of turns, as stated in the owner's manual.  Well, they changed the manual.  The one in the box said to remove it, the online manual says to open it a couple of turns.  Anyhow, question resolved.  I had looked at two or three other brands of similar type units and they all recommend opening the valve a couple of turns to prevent pressure from building up in the hydraulic system.

I suspect all the similar electric splitters are made in the same factory.  They just shut down the assembly line long enough to change paint, labels, and other minor items.  But they all have the same overall design.

 

[joe black]

When I find a large quantity f wood, I rent a splitter from Home Depot to get logs to a handling size. I stack these to season and when they're dry I use my kindling cracker to reduce them to suit my cook needs. That little gizmo costs $90 at Northern Tool and it's a great tool. As for my back, I have a large log about 18" diameter and 24" high. That's a great height for the cracker. I also use it for a little V-shaped cradle to hold any logs to saw when they're too long.

 

[dave schiller]

Joe, I have the K Cracker and it works well on smaller pieces.  But I also get larger pieces that have to be split some other way.  I'm too old to be swinging a maul and don't like chasing pieces that go flying off in different directions.  So I bought the 5 ton electric splitter.  I looked at several brands and they all seem to be of the same design, capacity, and in the same price range.

I looked at rentals from various places (including HD) and all their splitters are much larger than I need and all gas powered.  Then there's the logistics: reserve it for a certain day and drive across town to get it.  Takes half an hour.  And what if it rains?  And then stop splitting in time to get it back.  Another half hour.  Too many variables.  With my own electric splitter, I can use it in my basement garage since there is little noise and no fumes.  I can work as long as and whenever I want with no deadline, then continue later.

All in all, the small electric unit has done what I need and I'm satisfied with my decision to buy it.

 

[joe black]

I hate it when someone has thought through something and is fully prepared to give us all of the facts that are necessary to make me feel stoopid. Next time I get those large logs, I will look into the electric splitter. Thanks for the information, even if it is from Raleigh.....Go Heels

 

[dave schiller]

Joe, we graduates of a Wufpack U have tendency to analyze data to make proper decisions.  It's in our blood.  Go Pack!

 

[dward51]

I don't recall where I saw it, but a while back I saw several mods to these types of splitters in a forum.  One was to move the control box (the safety switch) to a more reasonable location, and the other was a way to use a tool to hold that button in without you having to use your hand for that.  That seems to be one of the main complaints about those units from what I've seen.  

One of the better ideas I saw involved rewiring a bypass to that switch and instead they used a meat grinder momentary contact foot switch.  That still gave a measure of safety as you just take your foot off if there is a problem and the power is killed.

Looks like there is a thread where the user made a stand and a hinge that puts pressure on the safety button from a foot activated pedal.  Does not bypass it, but makes it foot operated.  Here is that thread:

https://www.hearth.com/talk/threads/homelite-electric-splitter-demo.109103/#post-1681310

 

[dave schiller]

I'll look into moving the control box.  I opened the cover and saw too many wires to the switch to know which to bypass with a remote switch.  But if you find something about it, let me know.  I was splitting some wood this afternoon and one piece popped open with a bang.  Pieces went flying.  Fortunately not toward my face, but I would never have had time to get my hand up.  Maybe I should use a full face shield.

 

[dward51]

Apparently there is more than one version of the Harbor Freight 5 ton splitter.  I found a couple of youtube videos where they reviewed it out of the box with no modifications and the power button was a push on/off and did not need to be held.  Also in the reviews on the Harbor Freight site, there is a comment about pushing the power button down hard until it clicks so it will stay on.  I don't have one so I have no personal observations, just found these online (as now I'm looking at one).

 

[hardcookin]

This has always been my Harbor Freight wood splitter when I am smoking.

Image

• hardcookin
• Aug 7, 2017

 

[dave schiller]

Thanks for posting those links, dward.  I'm going through them and thinking about mods I can make.  The HF splitter apparently HAS been modified over the years.  I read the comments and saw the same suggestion about pushing the motor switch until it clicks for continuous running.  Unfortunately, mine won't do that; it has to be held down for the motor to run.

The other "problem" is with the operation of the activation handle.  On my unit, it is oriented upwards at about 45 degrees above horizontal.  To get full operation, it has to be pushed/rotated down to about 45 degrees below horizontal.  That's about 90 degrees of rotation.  The handle on the Homelite splitter in the link you posted appears to operate over a much smaller rotation, making it easier to connect to a foot switch.

I'll keep looking and thinking; something will click in my old brain and there will be a solution.  It seems all these small electric splitters have this two-handed operation requirement.  I'm sure it's supposed to be a safety feature to protect the operator's hands, but it doesn't do anything for face safety.  Probably somebody mashed a finger or hand and filed a lawsuit.  Hence ALL splitter implemented the two-hand operation requirement.

 

[dave schiller]

I haven't been able to come up with a system to make the splitter operate with one hand or foot.  Until I do, here's my quick-fix solution.  A full face shield.

Also, note the positions of the operating lever.  That's a pretty hefty rotation and it takes about 15-18 pounds to pull it down.

DSC_0748.JPG

• dave schiller
• Aug 10, 2017

DSC_0750.JPG

• dave schiller
• Aug 10, 2017

 

[dward51]

First suggestion for the button.  A bar clamp.    Just enough to put pressure on the button and easy to remove.  I've seen a Youtube video of a guy who did that and he hooked it on the button and then pulled it to fit around the back end.  He basically did not have to adjust the clamp once the right distance was set and it was easy for him to "flip" the end opposite of the button and the clamp would fall off the button.

quick-grip-medium-duty-one-handed-bar-clamps-2497.

• dward51
• Aug 11, 2017

As to the handle, I also saw some photographs of an owner who made his own handle. It was longer than the stock one and angled up in a curve (it was almost straight up in the up position).  The added length made it easier to move and the curve made it less drastic of a drop when down. It clamped to the stock handle. I don't recall which site I saw that photo on though.

 

[dave schiller]

I guess the motor runs continuously with the clamp on the switch.  I would think that's OK since the motor would be under no load most of the time.  I actually have a clamp like the one you show.  I thought about a longer handle with a bend such as what you describe.  I'll finish splitting the wood I have collected and then get serious about building a platform to raise the splitter and a longer handle.