If I were using a PID for my smoker I would use one of 2 types of thermocouples.
"K" type 1/16" insulated, ungrounded in a stainless steel / iconnell sheath, or 1/8" exhaust thermocouple with an ungrounded exposed tip.
note: ungrounded is not as fast as grounded but.. most PIDs require them.
I think i found some on Amazon. i was thinking of purchasing the second link below, the one that has glass braid insulation. But would any of these work?
LINK 1
LINK 2
LINK 3
and here's the amazon link to the first one i asked about earlier. if i went with this, i was thinking i could use a grate probe mount to wrap the wiring around it to use as a mount: REED Instruments TP-01 Beaded Thermocouple Wire Probe, Type K, -40 to 482°F (-40 to 250°C)
![]()
I would go for Link # 3 over the others. remember the smoke residue build up may be a problem over time. You could always wipe it down after smokes.
I would compromise with a 1/16" sheathed with a long part of it left un touched to keep heat sinking down. But hey for 12 bucks it's worth a test. You will definitely see more activity with that exposed tip.
I'm curious to see how that would work since your are using gas.
If you try the exposed tip remember that the graph you see will only be as good as the sample rate of the measuring system.
If it's taking reading every 3 minutes then that's as good as it gets for the graph.
Where did you buy the solenoid? Do you have a parts number for it?
solman, did you try out the smaller thermocouple yet ?
would like to hear about your results.
Curious if this would work in my homemade wooden smoker. Seems like I’m missing some parts maybe, typically I have been only using a propane burner and needle valve for controlling my heat. 20-24 hour smokes on summer sausage with southern temp swings 20 degrees I’m having to check it every hour night and day.
Anyone have an idea of what I would be missing from this set up? The burner want yet out inside in these pics but it’s just a propane burner and and tank with a needle valve.
Solman,it should work as long as you're using a low pressure regulator. you'd need everything in the first pic except the needle valve.
Solman,
Thank you for the response, it seems like I’m missing something though correct? It is that tired directly into the gas line in between the tank and burner and that’s it?
Solman,yes it basically sits in between the regulator/tank and the burner. the solenoid is controlled by the PID and manages propane flow to maintain the set temperature. the hose that bypasses the solenoid is always on and is used to maintain a temperature just slightly below the set temperature; i use my smoker's built-in control knob to control this part of the propane flow. for example, i may have my smoker's control knob set so that it can maintain 210F +/- 10F on its own, then i'll set my PID to 230F. when the PID senses a temp drop below 230F, it'll open the solenoid, and shut it off when the temp starts to rise.
Solman,
I’m also curious about the wiring of the valve to the controller and if any relays were used. Seems like I’d need a NC relay tied into the valve.
Trent