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Sorry for the delay - been on vacation. The smoker I bought was $250 delivered. With all the mod parts I've added I'm a little over $500.
I'd like to make sure we're speaking of the same smoker models before I venture an answer to the differences. The big block I refer to is the model...
The last mod I'm making is a removable rain stack. I started with an 8" to 6" reducer, an 8" flange cover and a standard 6" rain cap (like the one travcoman45 used to make his stack in http://www.smokingmeatforums.com/for...t.php?p=168391).
I first welded the flange cover to the reducer...
Glad to have you here. I spent the best four years of my life just North of you in Cookville, TN. Of course, you would have been born sometime during that period...
Jon
To inaugurate the newly customized and seasoned GOSM big block (http://www.smokingmeatforums.com/t/64526/jps-gosm-build-mods), I decided to smoke a fatty and bologna chub for breakfast & lunch while tending a pork butt we were smoking for dinner with friends...
To inaugurate the newly customized and seasoned GOSM big block (http://www.smokingmeatforums.com/t/64526/jps-gosm-build-mods), my wife & I decided to invite friends over for a Saturday night BBQ dinner. To prepare the meat I applied a generous (I think) portion of Jeff's Naked Rib Rub to a 7 lb...
Just finished up some simple hangers for smoking homemade sausage:
Used 1/2" hardwood oak dowels cut to length, then a router with 1/4" rounding bit to smooth the ends. Made positioning grooves where they contact the rails by turning them against a 1/4" straight bit. Finished up with a light...
My wife & I lived at 5th & Negley while I was in grad school. Your ZIP looks to be nearby. How long have you lived in Pgh? I'm a life-long Steelers fan and absolutely loved my time in the city.
Jon
Not yet - I've been running it in an open garage since I still have to fab a cover for the gas valve. That's the project for this weekend, followed by seasoning (with hickory), hopefully followed by an inagural smoke next weekend.
JP
Since I had to disassemble the burner to replace the aluminum pilot burner tubing I broke , I wanted to take some close-ups of the pilot burner bracket I fabricated for the design:
In case that's of use to anyone.
Jon
After adjusting my needle valve so that the burner was on 90+% of the time, I let everything cool overnight and started it up while recording the temperature each minute. The top vent was fully open and the lower vents were both closed to the stops. Temps were measured with a Maverick Redi-Chek...
I know it's probably overkill, but it now works!!! After the above meltdown, here are the steps I followed. First, I bought 1/4" HardieBacker cement board and cut pieces to cover the bottom & sides. I then surrounded that with 16 gauge steel - using the steel to hold together the cement...
Sorry. I've gone back and added part details above.
I convinced myself it wouldn't work because water heaters aren't designed to go over about 180 deg F. If it weren't for the integral thermostat there's no reason it otherwise wouldn't.
Plus, water heater thermostat dials generally aren't...
I believe it will likely be necessary to add the needle valve to get low temps. I've only tested mine, but I ran it as low as it would go and it went into the 220 deg F range. I'm in the process of adding a needle valve to my gas lines.
There are a number of mods discussed on this particular...
I've placed the gas valve assembly back where it was, but didn't replace the burner assembly or gas lines/wiring.
The front of the original panel was modified to this configuration:
Close-up on the thermostat control:
and a close-up on the gas valve (the wiring connectors are under the...
Excellent concern, and one that is addressed in the design. This style pilot light/generator generates a 750mV signal when the thermopile is heated by the pilot light. If the pilot isn't lit, or if the wire is cut, the signal goes to zero.
This is coupled with a millivolt gas valve that is...
I'll take photos of it when I get home tonight and post them. The thermostat is mounted in the hole where the gas burner control used to reside. The burner control (which no longer needs to be operated) can be seen hard mounted to the burner housing in one of the photos above.
Because of the...
The test drive of the smoker thermostat mod did not go well - it started well, but the second time the burner lit to reheat it never shut off.
Disassembled the controls and discovered the wire I used to hook up the thermostat had melted and shorted, causing the gas valve to lock open. Not a...
Since I was on a roll I decided to add a thermostat controlled gas valve to make the GOSM as accurate and easy to use as possible (sorry, not a purist). I started by securing parts - first, a 750mV pilot burner/thermocouple generator ($40 for Grainger #1RC59):
a 60-250 degree F thermostat...
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