Some of the links on this forum allow SMF, at no cost to you, to earn a small commission when you click through and make a purchase. Let me know if you have any questions about this.
Civilsmoker got you covered. I add small splits that are dry as a popcorn fart that catch fire very easily and burn. I'll split a fire place sized log into 3 or 4 splits so the splits are pretty small.
https://www.smokingmeatforums.com/threads/baby-backs-on-rf-offset.317480/
What casings did you use? Were they smoke permeable or non permeable. IMO If they didnt get any smoke flavor through the cook your not going to get much more. I would peel the casing off and hot smoke em till they got some color and then vacuum seal. My 2 cents
That's a crock...... The manufacturure should have control of how the smoker is built like "quality control". If that's what customers are getting then there probably arent any QC. Who built it?
Where was the loose connection at? Thermostat, element, controller? Would be good information to post if someone else has a problem and is looking for answers. A picture says a thousand words too..... Just sayin
Ok. if the element is heating, the element should be ok bar a resistance check. I would be looking in the direction of the thermostat then the control board or like zwiller said. operator error.....lol
I’m not familiar with these units either, but check connections to the heater and the thermostat. verify fuses and or breakers are not blow or tripped. If you have a meter, ohm the heater and verify the cuircuit is not broken. If the heater is good check the thermostat. If its bad it may not...
If the door radius is the issue a jig can run you anywhere from $25 to $200 Can be made from scraps/leftovers or professionally done. Will be a one time use though
IMO the door is warped from heat when it was cut and is now a poor fit. Even with no heat the door can spring open a little and cause a gap. To get rid of the gap you need to make a jig out of heavy steel with a lever that will slip over the bottom door lip then place a 4X4 horizontaly across...
I have built many pipe burners....IMO you need an open area(s) under the burner to allow fresh air to flow upwards. If you dont have sufficient air supply around the burner the oxygen will will deplete when it get hot and the burner will go out. I suggest drilling some holes under the burner...
Just a heads up......Also from what other members have said about using the mixer attachment with the larger units they tend to not use them after they bought them. They require additional extensive work to clean and maintain them. Its easier to just mix by hand......
This site uses cookies to help personalise content, tailor your experience and to keep you logged in if you register.
By continuing to use this site, you are consenting to our use of cookies.