Strong recommendation: USE A DIMMER plug for electric cold smoker attachment!

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webpoppy8

Fire Starter
Original poster
Jul 4, 2016
58
21
Boston North
Hi folks,

I have an MES 30 and the Masterbuilt cold smoker attachment, and I started trying something a few months ago that has worked so well I wanted to share it.

Adding a dimmer plug to the cold smoker has resolved a problem I'm sure many others have had - excessive generation of smoke from the attachment. I'm sure Masterbuilt had to tweak this to select a wattage that would generate smoke in winter as well as other times of year. Also, they need to get smoke generating fast with high power so that stupid owners like myself won't think they were ripped off. On warm Summer (or early Fall) days like today, the smoke is just too much and can be bitter.

I start the cold smoker with the dimmer on full power, and in 15 minutes when the smoke starts really going, I reduce it back. With a regular ("potentiometer") dimmer like mine, there isn't much precision, but I pull it back about halfway. I check again maybe 30 minutes later and further adjust.

Tweaking for thin blue smoke is easy and reliable and my cooks and cold smokes are better than ever before.

I'm attaching a photo of a $15 Lutron, not to endorse it but just to inform you.

Smoke on folks!

- Andrew Wolfe
 

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As long as the dimmer used is rated for at least the MES cold smoker element wattage that should work great. I looked on the MES website and did not see the wattage in their specifications. It should be on a plate somewhere on the cold smoker body though. I can imagine it's more than 200-300 watts though.
 
Does the MES cold smoker have some sort of motor running an auger that advances the chips to the heating element? If so, a light dimmer might cause that motor to malfunction eventually. The heating element should be just fine. I'd have to see the entire device in order to suggest a better solution (and maybe the one you have documented is perfectly fine).
 
No. No auger. The chips feed by gravity, till they get stuck in the chute which they usually do.
 
As long as the dimmer used is rated for at least the MES cold smoker element wattage that should work great. I looked on the MES website and did not see the wattage in their specifications. It should be on a plate somewhere on the cold smoker body though. I can imagine it's more than 200-300 watts though.

150w - no problem.
 
No. No auger. The chips feed by gravity, till they get stuck in the chute which they usually do.

Cleaning that chute is key. When I've gotten it really clean, they slide down like butter and six hours later it's just ashes. Not even sure I know how I did it!
 
Thanks Dave for your reply. I did see your recommendation before, unfortunately it was after I purchased this one. From some feedback it was saposed to work. Aww well.live and learn. In the meantime I got so disappointed in my trials I ended up buying a new mes digital bluetooth 30 in instead and am loving it! Smoking is fun again.
 
Router speed controller does not have the oompf for a heating element....

Dave,
The router speed control is rated 15 amps and the cold smoker draws 1.25 amps (according to the spec label). What am I missing?
I have not experienced any problem using one with my cold smoker. I start off with full power and once the chips are smoking well I dial it back to around 50% power.
 
Several folks have had problems with "router speed controllers"... I'm going to assume because of the duration of use at higher wattage... like a smoker heating element being on for hours... where a router is intermittent and the wattage reducer has time to cool...
I didn't see where checkdude noted the wattage he was trying to control... I have to assume the worst case scenario when replying to posts that are missing pertinent information...
I could have noted, "It should work perfect for you"... others have them work just fine.... OR.... It works fine for me, what are you missing...
In my opinion, you are missing the same stuff I am missing... All the facts... I don't have a position to protect... I'm just here doing what I can to help folks..
If your cold smoker works fine, that's cool... 1.25 amps is a bit different than 7-10 amps some elements draw...
Be aware, when folks post of situations, they don't always provide necessary, accurate or enough information to come to a scientific, accurate or reasonable conclusion....
Then there is the quality of Harbor Freight stuff.... some is great, other stuff, not so great... My experience anyway ...
18 of 152 reviews are 1 (one) star... 11.8% of the folks think they are junk or close to junk.... either you got lucky or checkdude is one of the 11.8% that thinks it sucks...
 
Sorry for not providing all information . You are absolutely right! Even though I have a new smoker to use I would still like to get this to work. Was trying to use this to control masterbuild analog which is 1500w I believe. Took of the factory heatsink and added finned one 3x bigger to shed heat. Tried it on table lamp and at the minimum setting the light was still half on. Mabey I should just junk it (not much cash in it)and follow your advice on the DROK . Or the YEECO you posted about some time ago. Being in Canada sometime availability is limited. I was not bad mouthin harbor freight.likely the fault is mine.
 
Several of the reviews of that Harbor Freight controller note that some adjustment might be required, something not for those without a little experience with electronics. Here is a quote from one of the reviews:

Needed to slow down a angle grinder modified for grinding on a lathe. Like some reviews have stated the lower section of the dial doesn't do anything. If you are mechanically inclined you can adjust the pot on the circuit board underneath the rear cover. With it unplugged from power, take out the 4 screws gently tilt the cover over. You will see a small hole in the circuit board "center left", the adjustment pot is on the other side of the board. Using a small flat blade screwdriver turn to the right just slightly to make slow down further than factory settings. Only takes a small adjustment. Put the cover back on and trying it, if slower is needed repeat until it's where you want it. Works great for me at a great price.
 
Checkdude.... I know you were not badmouthing Harbor Freight... Sounds as if you got one of the "non-performing" controllers... The SCR I noted... I have 2... one is in use on a 1500 watt electric frying pan to reduce the wattage when on, as to not burn food... I can control it to simmer stuff nicely while the element is on continuously.... works perfect... has for a couple years... I use it to control one of those "outboard" motors folks use in the kitchen to whip food, make sauces... doesn't throw stuff all over the kitchen... the second one is in line to control heat in my curing chamber...
 
If I wasn't so cheep I would have gotten auber pid to do the job lol. If I ever get this right I'll be back to post about it.
 
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