MES 40 Questions

[dirshman]

Decided to make some sausage yesterday. Started my MES 40 Sportsman Elite to heat up and went back out an hour later and it was hovering basically at the 61 deg. Basically the temp it was outside. In recent smokes, it seemed to be taking a long time to come up to temp.
I have a few questions.

1. How do I know if it is the heating element or the high temp limit kit that need to be replaced. The unit's troubleshooting guide lists both as potential causes. The HTL is sold out of course.
2. I use a mailbox modification to do my smoking now. If I replace the heating element, should I just leave the ash pan and it's holder off, exposing the heating element, or with this effect how the cabinet is designed to heat and/or expose the element to drippage from the meat, which you wouldn't want. I still have the drip deflector in place.

Thanks for any help. I know these questions are pretty basic, but I like to defer to those more experienced than I!

 

[normanaj]

Get in touch with this guy tallbm

He's a genius with the electrical issues dealing with the MES.

 

[pa42phigh]

First thing to do is make sure the connection isn’t burnt off in back

 

[shawnmaloney01]

My connection in the back corroded somehow, still trying to figure that oout.
Once fixed I sealed the access door to prevent moisture

 

[Winterrider]

With my mailbox mod, I gutted mine out, flipped element to the middle and left the cover over element to protect.

 

[tallbm]

Decided to make some sausage yesterday. Started my MES 40 Sportsman Elite to heat up and went back out an hour later and it was hovering basically at the 61 deg. Basically the temp it was outside. In recent smokes, it seemed to be taking a long time to come up to temp.
I have a few questions.

1. How do I know if it is the heating element or the high temp limit kit that need to be replaced. The unit's troubleshooting guide lists both as potential causes. The HTL is sold out of course.
2. I use a mailbox modification to do my smoking now. If I replace the heating element, should I just leave the ash pan and it's holder off, exposing the heating element, or with this effect how the cabinet is designed to heat and/or expose the element to drippage from the meat, which you wouldn't want. I still have the drip deflector in place.

Thanks for any help. I know these questions are pretty basic, but I like to defer to those more experienced than I!

Hi there and welcome!!

The Safety Rollout Limit Switch ("High Temp Limit kit" I guess is what they call it) is this if you need to replace.
Having extra helps as they melt down and are delicate

This switch is halfway up on the back of your smoker. If you are lucky you have a panel to access it. If not, then you have to pull the back off the MES by drilling out the rivets to get to it and u replace with sheet metal screws to re-fasten the back on again.
Also you may want to cut a panel to access that area easily in the future as these things do melt down.

Also with your smoker apart you may want to upgrade to high temp connectrs at the heating element and the safety rollout limit switch as those Masterbuilt connectors corrode and fail super fast:

I flipped my element and removed all the crap in the box above it. I almost always cook with a pan under my food anyhow so that protects my element most of the time. The other times it just takes some drippings but never with anything too liquidy.

I hope this info helps :)

 

[nerdbq]

Hi there and welcome!!

The Safety Rollout Limit Switch ("High Temp Limit kit" I guess is what they call it) is this if you need to replace.
Having extra helps as they melt down and are delicate

This switch is halfway up on the back of your smoker. If you are lucky you have a panel to access it. If not, then you have to pull the back off the MES by drilling out the rivets to get to it and u replace with sheet metal screws to re-fasten the back on again.
Also you may want to cut a panel to access that area easily in the future as these things do melt down.

Also with your smoker apart you may want to upgrade to high temp connectrs at the heating element and the safety rollout limit switch as those Masterbuilt connectors corrode and fail super fast:

I flipped my element and removed all the crap in the box above it. I almost always cook with a pan under my food anyhow so that protects my element most of the time. The other times it just takes some drippings but never with anything too liquidy.

I hope this info helps :)

Thanks for the info, tallbm - 2 refinement questions.
1. Want to verify that the proper temp on the rollout switch is 55C (there are several options at your link)
2. The connectors on the heater element lugs are insulated with something. What should I insulate with when I replace the lugs? A link would be helpful, but any info appreciated.
v/r & 73
Tom

 

[dr k]

Thanks for the info, tallbm - 2 refinement questions.
1. Want to verify that the proper temp on the rollout switch is 55C (there are several options at your link)
2. The connectors on the heater element lugs are insulated with something. What should I insulate with when I replace the lugs? A link would be helpful, but any info appreciated.
v/r & 73
Tom

Mine says 150C = 302F. 55C=131F. If it fails then I'll not replace it and wire nut the two wires together like I did with the free Mes 30 I got on FB marketplace. I have a digital multi probe therm and I set the pit probe to a range of 145-290 to be alerted when outside that range instead of messing with a POS limit switch that's going to interrupt a cook when it fails. I Have an access cut out in my Mes 40 when that limit switch fails I'll wire nut that one to. My element lugs don't have shrink tubing over them after being replaced and the screw holes to the access are stripped so I peeled the rubber off the plate and stretch the holes over the screw heads to pull off for periodic quick inspections when unplugged to make sure lugs are tight on the element male spades. Put rubber back over screw heads. I lean a plywood board against the back to cover access.

 

[tallbm]

Thanks for the info, tallbm - 2 refinement questions.
1. Want to verify that the proper temp on the rollout switch is 55C (there are several options at your link)
2. The connectors on the heater element lugs are insulated with something. What should I insulate with when I replace the lugs? A link would be helpful, but any info appreciated.
v/r & 73
Tom

Dr K has you covered. 150C is the stock one to replace, 55C is waaaaay low you would never want that or you could never cook anything hahaha.

I bought 300F+ temp heat shrink wrap insulation to cover my connectors down there. It's likely a little weak for the job but hasn't been an issue for me.

I'll try and find a link for some readily available one but most of the ones on amazon are rated working temp of like 275F or a little higher

 

[nerdbq]

tallbm
I got to thinking - hi heat heat shrink..... That is a bit of an oxymoron. What would it take to shrink it? A nuclear powered heat gun?
But, I did find this (and in fact have some on hand from a ham radio project). Says withstand heat to 500F and is a self sealing tape. Think it will work? And maybe you and others would want it for your arsenal.

Self Fusing Silicone Rescue Tape (https colon slash slash www dot amazon dot com/gp/product/B004NCJ9NA)

73
Tom

I bought 300F+ temp heat shrink wrap insulation to cover my connectors down there. It's likely a little weak for the job but hasn't been an issue for me.

I'll try and find a link for some readily available one but most of the ones on amazon are rated working temp of like 275F or a little higher

 

[tallbm]

tallbm
I got to thinking - hi heat heat shrink..... That is a bit of an oxymoron. What would it take to shrink it? A nuclear powered heat gun?
But, I did find this (and in fact have some on hand from a ham radio project). Says withstand heat to 500F and is a self sealing tape. Think it will work? And maybe you and others would want it for your arsenal.

Self Fusing Silicone Rescue Tape (https colon slash slash www dot amazon dot com/gp/product/B004NCJ9NA)

73
Tom

Hahaha yeah it is an oxymoron :D

Tapes have a much higher operating temp for sure. Just make sure they insulate from electricity which yours seems to do. As long as it stays sealed it should be good to go! :)