Smokin-It Model 4 and DIN300A Controller

[SonnyE]

Great, sm0kin, let me know how you progress. I would like to see a smoker with a temperature sensor port on the back so you could plug in with the sensor of your choosing.

Bill,
Have you found that running a longer time, your graph gets even closer and more finite as everything stabilizes on a temperature?
You have a very tight span as it is, but it appeared to be stabilizing even more.

After getting my MES 30, and virtually gutting it down to make it work for my style, I could have just bought some parts and done just as well. :(

 

[sm0kin]

I received the correct controller (30A) and the project box. I was hoping to mount an A/C outlet on the back of the box to plug my smoker in directly. I’m unsure exactly what I need. I found several surface mount 110v outlets that are 15A, but none in 30A. Do I need it to be 30A??

 

[SonnyE]

I received the correct controller (30A) and the project box. I was hoping to mount an A/C outlet on the back of the box to plug my smoker in directly. I’m unsure exactly what I need. I found several surface mount 110v outlets that are 15A, but none in 30A. Do I need it to be 30A??

No. You aren't running 30A through it.
I like using 20A outlets. Just for the over size of them (load wise).
In fact, you may even be supplying it with a 15A house circuit.

 

[sm0kin]

I will find a nice 15 or 20amp then, thanks Sonny. Regarding the rocker switch you used, where did you find that? What kind of specs does it need to be?

 

[Steve H]

Thanks Bill, I’m sure that will make sense once I receive the unit. For the record, I have the 1200w element and I ordered the 10a unit. According to Sonny’s link I believe I chose the correct one

1200 Watts equals 10 Amps. So, yeah,

Thanks for the table, Sonny E, It will come in handy. Yes, I did talk to Steve at Smokin-It. He told me the model I have could not be upgraded to his digital controller. I have had a lot of trouble with built-in temp controllers in the past, so I think having a separate controller is more convenient for me. If it breaks, I'll just get another. I love the smoker.

Sm0kin, the wiring is easy. At lot easier than wiring up one with a separate relay. A couple of words on safety: Solder your 'spliced' wires and cover them up with shrink wrap, and observe the polarity (Hot/Neutral). The small side of the receptacle (Socket) should be wired to the wire the diagram shows as 'L' It did not come with a fuse but I will put one in later. The neutral side is labeled 'N', and of course the 'G' wire should be connected to the ground screw on the bottom of the receptacle.

If you are like me, I can read a schematic diagram pretty well, but when I try to translate to wires and components, sometimes it just doesn't compute.

It helped me to break it up into four separate steps:
1. From the male plug that plugs into the wall receptacle (the power source), run the HOT wire (the smaller blade) to the controller Pin 1 & Pin 3.

2. From the male plug that comes from the wall receptacle, run the NEUTRAL (the larger blade) to the controller Pin 4 and to the larger NEUTRAL blade on the wall socket you will use to supply power to the smoker.

3. Run a wire from the controller Pin 2 to the HOT (small blade) of the wall socket you will use to supply power to the smoker.

4. From the plug that comes from the wall receptacle, run the GROUND wire to the ground screw on wall socket you will use to supply power to the smoker.

The sensor has no polarity. Recheck your work several times before you plug the male plug into your power source.

If anyone sees an error in my description, please respond.

RTDs and thermo couplings are polarity sensitive. I'm guessing that this is a plug of some sort. And not two loose wires you terminate?

 

[Steve H]

Ah, nevermind. After looking at the PDFs. I see that the sensor is a thermistor. Which is not polarity sensitive.

 

[Steve H]

No. You aren't running 30A through it.
I like using 20A outlets. Just for the over size of them (load wise).
In fact, you may even be supplying it with a 15A house circuit.

I HATE 15amp breakers!!!! I hope yours is a 20 amp. If it is a 15 amp breaker. Do not switch it to a 20 amp breaker until you verify the wire size. 15 amp breakers only require 14 ga. wire. 20 amps require 12 ga, If you put a 20 amp breaker on a under sized wire. And your appliance starts to draw an excessive load for whatever reason. You are in danger of a fire. I had a call not long ago where this enterprising fellow had a minor garage fire. It seems he wanted to run an air compressor and a dust collector system on the same outlet. Those two items when running together was tripping the breaker. So, this home owner hero takes out the 20 amp breaker and dumps in a 30 amp. He was lucky he was in the garage when the romex heated up and caught fire. After I cleaned everything up and ran two separate circuits for him. I looked at the data plates from the compressor and dust collector. Together they required just over thirty amps. He walked away with a lesson learned.

 

[SonnyE]

I HATE 15amp breakers!!!! I hope yours is a 20 amp. If it is a 15 amp breaker. Do not switch it to a 20 amp breaker until you verify the wire size. 15 amp breakers only require 14 ga. wire. 20 amps require 12 ga, If you put a 20 amp breaker on a under sized wire. And your appliance starts to draw an excessive load for whatever reason. You are in danger of a fire. I had a call not long ago where this enterprising fellow had a minor garage fire. It seems he wanted to run an air compressor and a dust collector system on the same outlet. Those two items when running together was tripping the breaker. So, this home owner hero takes out the 20 amp breaker and dumps in a 30 amp. He was lucky he was in the garage when the romex heated up and caught fire. After I cleaned everything up and ran two separate circuits for him. I looked at the data plates from the compressor and dust collector. Together they required just over thirty amps. He walked away with a lesson learned.

Yeah, but in existing construction, he may be faced with what he's got.
Still, if his supply is 15 amps, and his smoker pulls 10 amps, (120V - 1200w), with a controller rated for 30 amps, everything is cool.
Your friend and his genius move in the garage will likely pull other boneheaded moves. o_O
We can't save them all. :(

 

[Steve H]

Yeah, but in existing construction, he may be faced with what he's got.
Still, if his supply is 15 amps, and his smoker pulls 10 amps, (120V - 1200w), with a controller rated for 30 amps, everything is cool.
Your friend and his genius move in the garage will likely pull other boneheaded moves. o_O
We can't save them all. :(

That's true on both statements!

 

[sm0kin]

Well I got the box cut and fit the controller, now I need more time to actually wire it up.
My dremel didn’t fully cooperate, but it is what it is.

 

[Steve H]

I'm watching this closely. I may do the same thing in the future. Nice work so far!

 

[sm0kin]

Thanks! I think this may get attached to the smoker semi permanently with the rocker switch also installed in the project box. I found some 15amp panel mount outlets on digi-key, but I need one for a 3mm thick panel. Beyond that I only need the aforementioned rocker switch, power cable, and wire.

 

[Shootr]

Reviving an old thread...hope that's OK.

I backed into this whole thread after googling the DIN300A controller. (My primary issue was with a water heater, but that's another story.) Question #1: Have the specs changed? The website shows only going up to 110C (230F)?

My question is, can I possibly use one of these to control a Camp Chef DLX pellet smoker? My current stock setup can vary 20-40F when set to "high smoke 220". I know this situation is MUCH different than a pure electric smoker, but still am willing to throw $50 at it to try if might bring the fluctuations down a little.

If so, would it be as simple as splicing in at the RTD sensor and using the DIN300 sensor instead?

If that is the case, then I don't need the relay, correct? And if that's correct, would a unit like this be more along the lines of what I would need (if it can control higher than 110C)?

Thanks in advance for any and all ideas and help.