Seasoning Oklahoma Joe's Highland Reverse Flow Smoker

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You need to follow the old saying "if your looking you ain't cooking" I agree that sealing the firebox door with a gasket makes a big difference. Did you seal it with high temp sealant before you assembled it? This is another cheap mod that really helps keep the smoke inside the chamber. Those two mods are approx. $25 for both at Amazon and worth the money for sure. If you need to check temps all the time I recommend ThermoPro TP20 it is $60 at amazon and works great for getting meet temps without opening the lid.

No seals were use. I emailed char-briol to get their opinion on the seals before I purchased it. They called me the next day and said the seals would negatively affect its design and decrease the airflow it was meant to have. BUT it seems like literally everyone uses them so it must be for a reason
 
I spent all my money on the smoker! Haha but I will def consider this
There is an active discount code in the thermometer section from ThermoPro. I think it was a 10 or 20 percent discount. I have the TP-08 which is very good and is about $35 or so with that discount code. The gasket around the cook chamber should suffice for leakage. What little leakage I had from the firebox stopped after just a few cooks. Carbon buildup did the trick there. Don't fret, you will be making some awesome BBQ in no time.

George
 
Ill be running my 6 probe wires (Fireboard) through this probe port. When you tighten the end cap a plastic unit inside tightens making it more smoke tight. Ive heard the plastic insert deforms after a number of cooks at higher temps, but is easily replaced with high temp tape.
 

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All problems aside I think the ribs came out good
 

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No seals were use. I emailed char-briol to get their opinion on the seals before I purchased it. They called me the next day and said the seals would negatively affect its design and decrease the airflow it was meant to have. BUT it seems like literally everyone uses them so it must be for a reason
It will decrease the airflow alright. From the firebox and cooking chamber to the outside. That's the idea.

Char broil should figure out how to paint the FB before telling their customers how (not) to make OK Joe a better smoker.
 
Ill be running my 6 probe wires (Fireboard) through this probe port. When you tighten the end cap a plastic unit inside tightens making it more smoke tight. Ive heard the plastic insert deforms after a number of cooks at higher temps, but is easily replaced with high temp tape.
Can you share the model of this port and the vendor?
 
The problem is that fire box isn't painted with high temp paint, it's just set up for failure. The best thing to do is buy some 1,500F high temp paint and a wire brush. Once the factory junk peels off, brush off the loose stuff and shoot the good stuff on there.
 
No seals were use. I emailed char-briol to get their opinion on the seals before I purchased it. They called me the next day and said the seals would negatively affect its design and decrease the airflow it was meant to have. BUT it seems like literally everyone uses them so it must be for a reason
Now that is funny. How does sealing up the unit decrease air flow? If they took the time to build it right and used better material and paint we would not have to make the changes we did. As far as the grommet hole I used this from Weber and it works great.

 
Now that is funny. How does sealing up the unit decrease air flow? If they took the time to build it right and used better material and paint we would not have to make the changes we did. As far as the grommet hole I used this from Weber and it works great.

Just a theory here. And please step in with your thoughts.
My firebox has big gaps where the top and bottom are bolted together. You can easily slip a quarter through it.
If I close the fire box damper air will still enter these gaps as long as the chimney is open. The majority of the air goes directly in to the cook chamber since the gap is above the charcoal/fuel. The gap airflow can be controlled by the chimney. The temperature can be controlled by the fire box damper.

The point I’m trying to make is this airflow increases circulation. More circulation equals more even temps throughout.

Of course all this could done differently by sealing the thing properly and keep the circulation up by having all the dampers open as much as possible and controlling temps with amount of fuel.

Yeah, I’m over thinking this. But it’s how I’m making it work with no mods
 
Can you share the model of this port and the vendor?

Probe Port Barbecue Smoker Thermometer Stainless Steel @ Amazon: http://a.co/hZ5fA9c

I did buy others that looked just like it for half the price (and you get 3) but they werent made as well and I never found the exact match (size needed for 6 probes wires) to this one. So I took the $18 hit and kept it over the others and sent those back.
 
The problem is that fire box isn't painted with high temp paint, it's just set up for failure. The best thing to do is buy some 1,500F high temp paint and a wire brush. Once the factory junk peels off, brush off the loose stuff and shoot the good stuff on there.

I totally agree. After all the COS smokers I have owned over the years, it is inevitable. Get out the wire drill attachment and go to town. I am trying to get the same brand of paint used by Lone Star Grillz and a few other OS makers. (See attached Spec Sheet) and fix my current run in with paint bubbling (second fire) on my OKJ RF.
 

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Just a theory here. And please step in with your thoughts.
My firebox has big gaps where the top and bottom are bolted together. You can easily slip a quarter through it.
If I close the fire box damper air will still enter these gaps as long as the chimney is open. The majority of the air goes directly in to the cook chamber since the gap is above the charcoal/fuel. The gap airflow can be controlled by the chimney. The temperature can be controlled by the fire box damper.

The point I’m trying to make is this airflow increases circulation. More circulation equals more even temps throughout.

Of course all this could done differently by sealing the thing properly and keep the circulation up by having all the dampers open as much as possible and controlling temps with amount of fuel.

Yeah, I’m over thinking this. But it’s how I’m making it work with no mods

Gaps in firebox = heat escaping (an already thin smoker)
Gaps in FB & CC = difficult to maintain constant temp

But ultimately Ive cooked on COS for years never modded, without good thermos for years and produced good results.

This is my first time using a high end COS with mods and an amazing thermo w/ ATC. My first cook required far less monitoring, my fuel consumption was reduced and I cooked at far more consistent and accurate temps than ever before. I enjoyed it thoroughly and my end results while not my best, were great for a first cook on a set up I had never used before.

Ultimately, you have to do what you feel is best for you my friend. :thumbs up:
 
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I totally agree. After all the COS smokers I have owned over the years, it is inevitable. Get out the wire drill attachment and go to town. I am trying to get the same brand of paint used by Lone Star Grillz and a few other OS makers. (See attached Spec Sheet) and fix my current run in with paint bubbling (second fire) on my OKJ RF.
Are you gonna repaint the whole FB or just the area where the paint is peeling?
 
Griz0146 Griz0146 - Just a list of mods I did:

- Oklahoma Joe LONGHORN all BLACK w/ RTV Gasket & Latch Mod Kit by FireBlack
- Cook Chamber Gasket self adhering (I used)
- RTV High Temp Silicone (I used - bought one extra too)
- Firebox Gasket (Requires HT RTV) (I used)
- CC Lid Latches (not used yet)​

- Stainless Steel Probe Port (not used yet)

- Fan opening in my intake dampener for my ATC (see attched)

- Minion Bars (custom made by co-workers in shop)

Some buy the black RTV Silicone (non high temp) for the cook chamber to use at the smoke stack, and in the case of the factory RF at the optional outlet. I used the left over cook chamber gasket, ran on the inside diameter of both smoke stack outlets and inserted the smoke stack and end cap respectively.

I am buying extra FB gasket to attach to my FB ashdoor and using the HT RTV to seal the dampener to the door as I have started using my ATC for air into the FB.
 

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Are you gonna repaint the whole FB or just the area where the paint is peeling?

I am going to cook with it this weekend before removing it and replacing it. Hopefully more paint comes off. (Feels weird saying that - lol)

Then I am going to see how much of the paint I can get off the FB with a wire brush attachment for my drill. I might take a light grinding wheel to it. Id rather it be free of paint before applying a new paint.
 
Griz0146 Griz0146 - Just a list of mods I did:

- Oklahoma Joe LONGHORN all BLACK w/ RTV Gasket & Latch Mod Kit by FireBlack
- Cook Chamber Gasket self adhering (I used)
- RTV High Temp Silicone (I used - bought one extra too)
- Firebox Gasket (Requires HT RTV) (I used)
- CC Lid Latches (not used yet)​

- Stainless Steel Probe Port (not used yet)

- Fan opening in my intake dampener for my ATC (see attched)

- Minion Bars (custom made by co-workers in shop)

Some buy the black RTV Silicone (non high temp) for the cook chamber to use at the smoke stack, and in the case of the factory RF at the optional outlet. I used the left over cook chamber gasket, ran on the inside diameter of both smoke stack outlets and inserted the smoke stack and end cap respectively.

I am buying extra FB gasket to attach to my FB ashdoor and using the HT RTV to seal the dampener to the door as I have started using my ATC for air into the FB.
Griz, one thing that I have heard from a few folks who got really thorough about sealing every single gap was that they could find on the firebox end and then they had problems keeping temps due to lack of airflow. I've stated this many times on the forum before. I have no mods at all of the firebox and have never had any trouble getting my pit up to temp unless it was frigid outside. That's only two or three times a year here in So Cal. Have fun and enjoy those cooks.

George
 
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Griz0146 Griz0146 - Just a list of mods I did:

- Oklahoma Joe LONGHORN all BLACK w/ RTV Gasket & Latch Mod Kit by FireBlack
- Cook Chamber Gasket self adhering (I used)
- RTV High Temp Silicone (I used - bought one extra too)
- Firebox Gasket (Requires HT RTV) (I used)
- CC Lid Latches (not used yet)​

- Stainless Steel Probe Port (not used yet)

- Fan opening in my intake dampener for my ATC (see attched)

- Minion Bars (custom made by co-workers in shop)

Some buy the black RTV Silicone (non high temp) for the cook chamber to use at the smoke stack, and in the case of the factory RF at the optional outlet. I used the left over cook chamber gasket, ran on the inside diameter of both smoke stack outlets and inserted the smoke stack and end cap respectively.

I am buying extra FB gasket to attach to my FB ashdoor and using the HT RTV to seal the dampener to the door as I have started using my ATC for air into the FB.[/QUOTE

Sweet set up!
 
Griz, one thing that I have heard from a few folks who got really thorough about sealing every single gap was that they could find on the firebox end and then they had problems keeping temps due to lack of airflow. I've stated this many times on the forum before. I have no mods at all of the firebox and have never had any trouble getting my pit up to temp unless it was frigid outside. That's only two or three times a year here in So Cal. Have fun and enjoy those cooks.

George

RiversideSm0ker RiversideSm0ker - So youve read its bad to seal all the gaps? Hmmmm... I might have to do some digging to find out more info. From a lot of reading I have done, seems the biggest issues with the COS is the fact it does leak so much.

But with the ATC, Im hoping this is not the case. The fan is supposed to only blow (stoke the fire) just enough to keep the temperature at the point I set it at. Good thing I have that second FB Charlbroil sent. LOL

Griz0146 Griz0146 - Thank you! Ill get some better pics this weekend.
 
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