Ready to throw in the towel on my Masterbuilt 40" Propane Smoker.

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diegoted

Newbie
Original poster
Nov 30, 2016
16
10
I have upgraded to the Bayou Classic 0-30 PSI Adjustible Regulator and still I cannot control my temp at all. 1/16th of an inch turn on the regulator will result in a 30 degree shift. I might as well be chained to the damn thing. I understand there will be flux but this is crazy. I am really thinking of junking this smoker for a pellet smoker. I am at a loss, anything anyone can tell me, that might me happening. I mean the outside temp was stable at 70 degrees, I would hate to thing if I was smoking in not so prime weather the temp fluxes would be 10 times worse. Any suggestions before I junk this thing. Oh by the way anything I have smoked in this thing has come out FANTASTIC! Just I have to baby sit it every minute.

thx Ted
 
0-30 psi is way too much pressure and don't give fine adjustment as you indicate.
I solved my temperature regulation with a simple needle valve using the original regulator as many do. It controls my cooker temp +/- 10 degrees.
 
I recently had a custom made T-Pit built. It's an interesting configuration where the fire box is directly under the cook chamber right in the middle....thus the "T" configuration. There are 2 large dampers, one on each side of the fire box and my heat source is 2) 6" low pressure propane burners. It took a bit of time and patience to figure this out but I discovered that the damper settings play a HUGE role in temperature control. Yes, I have a micro fine adjustable needle valve to regulate the flow of propane but did discover a significant issue. If the dampers are too far open you get too much air and even the slightest puff of breeze will add oxygen to the firebox and create a temperature spike. If the dampers are closed too far you don't get enough air for the burners to burn efficiently and temps are all over the charts. I don't know if you have played with the dampers or not but if you haven't I'd recommend it before tossing the unit. Additionally, I have no idea what the cost or quality level of your smoker is but that could be part of the problem. I understand and respect that some folks just can't drop several thousand dollars on a top quality pit. For the love of good Q, if all you someone can afford is a less expensive unit, one of the pitfalls (no pun intended) is that it'll require more attention. Regardless I'd recommend trying virtually everything you can think of, or get advice for here, before giving up. Once you get it dialed in you'll be happy that you spent the time figuring it out. If you have not already done so, you may also want to consider the purchase of a good digital thermometer. You made no mention of what type you're using. the factory therms tend to be junk and extremely inaccurate.....and a good therm is a LOT less expensive than a new pit :-)

Hoping to help a little bit,
Robert
 
Ted, what is it exactly you're babysitting and frustrated with?

What temps are you trying to maintain?

At what temp does the smoker want to stabilize?
It doesn't matter what temperature I try and maintain, last night I was smoking tuna trying to maintain 175*
Ted, what is it exactly you're babysitting and frustrated with?

What temps are you trying to maintain?

At what temp does the smoker want to stabilize?
It doesn't matter what temperature I try and maintain it just fluctuates. Last night I was attempting to smoke tuna which requires 175 degrees for about 2 hours hoping to get the internal temperature up to 145 degrees. No matter what I did the temperature would either climb above 190 or drop below 165 I could not keep it in between no matter what I did.
 
Low temps are a challenge with just about any hot smoker. Did you allow it to stabilize? If so, where below 165 did it stop? Where above 190F?

I don't use propane, but I can do the exact same process with my WSM from one low temp smoke to the next and get two entirely different stabilized temps. 165F one time, 200F the next. The heat-air-fuel triangle can be finicky no matter what smoker you are using.

If the Q you are making tastes fantastic as you stated, my recommendation would be don't sweat the temp differences. Get close and enjoy the results.
 
Nobounds, Yes the product came out great but that was after me never leaving the temp knob. I don't mind putting in time but on a 10 hour brisket this could be mind numbing! On the longer smokes the temp is not as important but on the short smokes like last night too high a temp and it cooks the fish too low and I don't get that inside temp I need to kill bacteria.

thx TEd
 
Last edited:
0-30 psi is way too much pressure and don't give fine adjustment as you indicate.
I solved my temperature regulation with a simple needle valve using the original regulator as many do. It controls my cooker temp +/- 10 degrees.
Lamar, I went to the Bayou regulator because that is what everyone recommended after I posted the first time about my temp swings, they all swore by it. Please give me more info on your needle and seat valve modification. At this point I will try anything.
 
I recently had a custom made T-Pit built. It's an interesting configuration where the fire box is directly under the cook chamber right in the middle....thus the "T" configuration. There are 2 large dampers, one on each side of the fire box and my heat source is 2) 6" low pressure propane burners. It took a bit of time and patience to figure this out but I discovered that the damper settings play a HUGE role in temperature control. Yes, I have a micro fine adjustable needle valve to regulate the flow of propane but did discover a significant issue. If the dampers are too far open you get too much air and even the slightest puff of breeze will add oxygen to the firebox and create a temperature spike. If the dampers are closed too far you don't get enough air for the burners to burn efficiently and temps are all over the charts. I don't know if you have played with the dampers or not but if you haven't I'd recommend it before tossing the unit. Additionally, I have no idea what the cost or quality level of your smoker is but that could be part of the problem. I understand and respect that some folks just can't drop several thousand dollars on a top quality pit. For the love of good Q, if all you someone can afford is a less expensive unit, one of the pitfalls (no pun intended) is that it'll require more attention. Regardless I'd recommend trying virtually everything you can think of, or get advice for here, before giving up. Once you get it dialed in you'll be happy that you spent the time figuring it out. If you have not already done so, you may also want to consider the purchase of a good digital thermometer. You made no mention of what type you're using. the factory therms tend to be junk and extremely inaccurate.....and a good therm is a LOT less expensive than a new pit :)

Hoping to help a little bit,
Robert
Robert , I have played with the dampers a bit, they did raise and lower temps but I did not find them much use keeping temps stable. Like you said as the air flow changed during the course of the smoke so did the inside temp.
 
A bit more info, I use a water pan inside that holds about 2 quarts of water. I was going to add bricks but was worried about grease build up on them?

thx for the help keep the thoughts coming.

Ted
 
P1040307 (Medium).JPG


The HP regulator is set to adjust my burner to high with the needle valve wide open. Turning down the needle valve gives fine control of the gas flow .
 
I threw in the towel and not looking back. 6hr burn in test with MES and temps rock solid. Night and day difference from my gasser (no needle valve). I think Electric/MES + AMNPS is hard to beat.
 
Just to throw some more propane on the fire...
I have a Masterbuilt 30" 2 door propane.
I use a 0 to 10 psi valve to regulate low temps.
Even with that I could never hold low temperatures. Mostly I would get blow out from wind, even with skirts around the bottom.
So I use my offset for low temps and my propane rig for high temp smokes.

My .02

r2
 
View attachment 347192

The HP regulator is set to adjust my burner to high with the needle valve wide open. Turning down the needle valve gives fine control of the gas flow .
So does using the needle valve take care of your low temp issues? How is it used. Right now I have the valve on the smoker wide open and use the Bayou controller to regulate. thx for the help

Ted
 
I think the key to the needle valve is that you also have to plug some holes of the burner too (search for that) but then I think you lose the higher temps. I just did my 3rd smoke with MES and AMNPS and I have no desire to even keep my gasser. Last night I smoked for 4 hours at perfect temps and TBS without lifting a finger.
 
So does using the needle valve take care of your low temp issues? How is it used. Right now I have the valve on the smoker wide open and use the Bayou controller to regulate. thx for the help

Ted

Lowest I run on gas is 225. I have an electric element installed for col smoking . The needle valve allows for finer control of temps.
 
running an empty test anything under 250 I would flame out.
 
That's the one I have too Muddy. Like I said earlier 1/16.turn result in a 40 degree swing
 
We have different smokers but I can run my smoker down to less then 100 degrees with the needle valve, I do have to watch it for flame outs this low. Last weekend I smoked some snack sticks and had no problem maintaining 120 degrees for 2 hours then creeping up the temp over the next few hours to finish at 170 degrees. I would think if anything my burner has a lot more holes in it then the masterbuilt, I've had my smoker up to 500 degrees with more throttle left.

This is the needle valve I have.
That is a regulator, the needle valve attaches to the regulator for finer control.


Mike
 
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