need ideas for smoker build

Discussion in 'Other Builds' started by curse, Mar 13, 2014.

  1. I posted a few pics with a question but i got a message that said something like "since you are a new member your post will need to be approved by a moderator".

    I posted yesterday and am still waiting.

    What's up with that? I've posted pics before this.
    Last edited: Apr 1, 2014
  3. Interesting, i just posted a pic. My question is...does anyone know if the positive and negative wires going out of the ssr are supposed to be opposite the wires going into it? 
  4. jckdanls 07

    jckdanls 07 Master of the Pit Group Lead OTBS Member

  5. jckdanls 07

    jckdanls 07 Master of the Pit Group Lead OTBS Member

    the neg. and pos. come from the controller into the SSR (smaller screws with the neg. and pos. emblems)... the other side of the SSR is for the power going to the heating element (bigger screws) .... the SSR acts as an on/off switch (so to speak) controlled by the PID....
    Last edited: Apr 1, 2014
  6. pork dork

    pork dork Smoke Blower


    If I may weigh in. I spent well over 2 months investigating and weighing options for my smoker. I have decided to use a Wood Pellet hopper from Smoke Daddy. Sure it's expensive but you only have to spend the money once and it's yours for the rest of your life. That is if you're planning on keeping this for more than a few weeks months or dare I say years. The wood pellet hopper will allow you to set it up turn it on and walk away until it's done. No tending the coals adjusting the vents and it's super efficient. I have a line on where I can get lumber jack pellets for .40 per LB vs what others pay over $1.00 to $2.00 per LB. That works out to $16.00 for a 40 LB bag. That beats the cost of electricity for long smokes even at 220V that uses half the electricity that 110V does. 

    Whatever method of smoke you do decide on you may want to consider using baffles to keep from heating the whole interior of the box if you're only using half or one quarter of the space. That will save you money on fuel too. 

    Spend a little now to save a fortune later. 

    Just my honest opinion. 

    If you're curious about my build check out my thread in other builds called "All fired up for my Wood pellet fed hopper and Smoke generator on my ECB 2 door vertical"

    Last edited: Apr 2, 2014
  7. Since i already bought the parts to build my own PID can anyone verify my wiring?

    The power cord on the right is the male end that plugs into wall outlet.

    The power cord on the left is the female end that goes to the heating element.

    Hopefully the pic is good enough.

  8. I trusted my wiring job and it's alive! 

    Now to learn how to program it.

  9. pork dork

    pork dork Smoke Blower


    Remember this; 

    Blue smoke from the smoker

    means good things are coming.        [​IMG]

    Blue smoke from the electronics

    means bad things are happening. [​IMG]  

    I don't know electronics. Good luck buddy.
    Last edited: Apr 2, 2014
  10. Lol! 
  11. jckdanls 07

    jckdanls 07 Master of the Pit Group Lead OTBS Member

    which PID did you end up getting ??
  12. It's an RKC brand, model REX-C100. It was cheap but hopefully it will be ok quality since it was made in Japan not China. 

    I wanted to go cheap since i'm experimenting right now. I'm sure i will upgrade later.
  13. pork dork

    pork dork Smoke Blower


    If you want cheap to start off with, go to Blains Farm & Fleet on line and order the "The Companion Group Steak Station Digital Meat Thermometer

    It's got 4 individual probes and costs $15. [​IMG]   It's not blue tooth it's just a thermometer with large display. I think that someone else recommended it either in this thread or in a different.      [​IMG]Kudos go to who ever that person was because I'm ordering one before I go with a 4 probe wifi unit. Not to be confused with a blue tooth unit.

    Who'd a thunk that smoking could get so expensive to do right.
  14. Just want to make sure you know that the specs on this state that the probes only read from 115 - 170 degrees so depending on what you are doing, such as pulled pork or brisket, they won't read high enough.
    A device that runs on 220V uses half the current that the same device would running on 110V -  not half the electricity. They will both draw the same amount of power - which is what the electric company charges you for - so they will both cost you more or less the same to operate...

    Nifty little project you have going Pork Dork  [​IMG]
  15. pork dork

    pork dork Smoke Blower

    Smoking B,

    Thanks for the correction on the 4 probe thermometer. Damn. I thought I had a good line on a cheap 4 probie. I guess I will not order one. You just saved me 15 bucks which is all right in my book. I don't care what others say about you. [​IMG]

    Now lets chat about the 220V vs 110V. You say that power company will charge you the same to operate both. Then why do most light to heavy industrial and wood shops use 3 phase 440+V with the idea that they are saving money from the power company?

    If 110V costs the same to run as 220V or 440+V what's the difference other than the lethality of the electricity. I mean I'll take a 110V zap and walk away but 220V or 440+V can kill you. Not that I'm going to install 3 phase on my house or anything I just want to be informed so I don't come off half cocked. When giving advice I usually prefer to be fully cocked.  [​IMG]  
  16. Ok I'll give you a quick explanation without getting into an in depth technical discussion...

    Industrial shops don't run 3 phase with the idea that they are saving money from the power company - most 3 phase is billed out as an "on-demand" service & can be quite expensive. The reason they use 3 phase on a lot of machines is due to a number of reasons. 3 phase motors have less parts so they are cheaper. 3 phase motors run cooler & are slightly more efficient so they have greater longevity. Higher hp motors are only available in 3 phase.

    A single phase motor has 2 magnetic fields 180* apart while a 3 phase motor has 3 fields 120* apart. Since the single phase motor only has the 2 fields opposite each other when electricity is applied to it, it will not turn. Therefore a single phase motor requires extra windings in the form of a starting circuit & run capacitor to get it going. This adds to the cost of the motor & is why it runs hotter. This is why you rarely see a single phase motor larger than 10-15 hp.

    Hopefully that answers your question about businesses so on to the 110 vs 220...

    The electric company charges you for the POWER  that you use. Power is equal to current times voltage. Lets say you have 2 different motors that are each rated 2200 watts at full load. One is wired to run on 110V & the other is wired to run on 220V. The 110V motor will draw 20 Amps of current while the 220V motor will only draw 10 Amps because it is running at twice the voltage. With either motor though you will still be using 2200 watts of power so you will get charged the same.
    jckdanls 07 likes this.
  17. pork dork

    pork dork Smoke Blower

    Smoking B,

    That was the perfect depth. You could teach an electronic engineering class. Your explanation was concise and to the point with out all the minutia that tends to make eyes roll towards the back of the head and cause one to have uncontrollable narcolepsy.[​IMG]

    This brings to mind a question I have for you. How did you get to be so comfortable discussing the nature of electric motors and their power consumption. I'm serious you could teach the stuff. You have a gift. I checked your profile and the only give away is that you also have an affinity for wood working.


    Nice pig fish pic. 
  18. I got the pid mounted and tested it with a heat gun and a fan.

    This thing is awesome. And it was under $50.
  19. Thanks for the compliment. I sent you a PM - I don't wanna highjack curse's thread any more than I already have...
  20. Not a problem. I'm learning from the posts too!

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