- Mar 8, 2017
- 23
- 12
Yes that's correct, the lower hole comes from the fire box and top hole goes into the smoke box. Fire box & smoke box are connected but has a 1/4" thick plate in between.
Need help with fire box
- Thread starter pirk56
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Yes that's correct, the lower hole comes from the fire box and top hole goes into the smoke box. Fire box & smoke box are connected but has a 1/4" thick plate in between.
Sounds to me like you need to plug that top hole off then, because your heat and smoke is taking the easiest path out and up your stack and not under like it was designed to do. Correct? am I not seeing something you are for it to not be closed off and work correctly for you still?
Hi there,
Whats your stack length? The pics don't show the top of the stacks.
To me they look long and small diameter which will cause friction and for the smoke to cool too much.
I would open it up a lot more between the cook chamber and vertical cabinet. (try to open it lower down).
Also mount the cook chamber stack lower on the chamber if you really want to keep 2 stacks.
For me I would toss the stack on the chamber, open up between the 2 compartments and make a larger intake.
Post more pics so we can help isolate the problem.
(cut out between firebox/cc , gap at end of Reverse flow plate etc, full pic of stack with diemensions. )
The more info you give the better folks here can give you a accurate answer.
Whats your stack length? The pics don't show the top of the stacks.
To me they look long and small diameter which will cause friction and for the smoke to cool too much.
I would open it up a lot more between the cook chamber and vertical cabinet. (try to open it lower down).
Also mount the cook chamber stack lower on the chamber if you really want to keep 2 stacks.
For me I would toss the stack on the chamber, open up between the 2 compartments and make a larger intake.
Post more pics so we can help isolate the problem.
(cut out between firebox/cc , gap at end of Reverse flow plate etc, full pic of stack with diemensions. )
The more info you give the better folks here can give you a accurate answer.
- Mar 8, 2017
- 23
- 12
gr0uch0
Master of the Pit
If you have "baffles" as you describe, the heat and smoke are bypassing the far end of the cook chamber and finding the paths of least resistance between your plates. There needs to be a solid plate running nearly the full length of the chamber for RF to work--not segmented "baffles".
Last edited:
- Mar 8, 2017
- 23
- 12
I hope these are clear enough, but the question (unless I'm not thinking of something) is not the function of the reverse flow, that works flawlessly. Smoke comes out of the fire box, under a removeable plate, up on the left side, travels around the meat and then out the stacks.
Main cook chamber stack is 4" x 3' the warming/smoke box is 4"x2'. Again we only added the stack on the smoke/warming box so that I could smoke meat inside there if I wanted. I can close either stack off or adjust as needed.
The question is how can I get my fire box to burn better, I may should of stated my question like that not keeping temp. I do think I need a larger dampener like stated above, but with out having to have a new door done, my throughts were to put some vents on the sides of the box that I can adjust.
Plate covering hole from fire box
Opening on left hand side of pit where smoke comes
Fire box
Smoke box, my thought is to put a sliding dampener on each side of the box.
I hope this clears up any questions. If not let me know.
Main cook chamber stack is 4" x 3' the warming/smoke box is 4"x2'. Again we only added the stack on the smoke/warming box so that I could smoke meat inside there if I wanted. I can close either stack off or adjust as needed.
The question is how can I get my fire box to burn better, I may should of stated my question like that not keeping temp. I do think I need a larger dampener like stated above, but with out having to have a new door done, my throughts were to put some vents on the sides of the box that I can adjust.
I hope this clears up any questions. If not let me know.
Last edited:
gr0uch0
Master of the Pit
I'm not seeing it, but that's ok. I misunderstood you, as you'd stated "baffles", meaning more than one, but you clarified now saying there's only one (nearly) full length plate. I do know there was a thread a couple of weeks ago where the poster was not getting good airflow on an RF, and also had large (50+ degrees) temp variances from one end to the other--which is exactly what RF is supposed to eliminate. It was because the deflecting plate redirecting the air and smoke flow underneath the plate wasn't completely and absolutely shutting off any leaks that could flow into the CC. He redid this plate (widened and sealed it the full width of the CC, if I remember correctly), and it solved his issue. Last suggestion I'll make is to check that aspect: make sure that there are no leaks at all around the plate between the FB and the CC--it must fully redirect everything under the RF plate. Otherwise, the other gentlemen providing intel on this thread have better knowledge than I when it comes to opening sizes, damper placements, sizes of stacks, etc. Good luck.I hope these are clear enough, but the question (unless I'm not thinking of something) is not the function of the reverse flow, that works flawlessly. Smoke comes out of the fire box, under a removeable plate, up on the left side, travels around the meat and then out the stacks.
Main cook chamber stack is 4" x 3' the warming/smoke box is 4"x2'. Again we only added the stack on the smoke/warming box so that I could smoke meat inside there if I wanted. I can close either stack off or adjust as needed.
The question is how can I get my fire box to burn better, I may should of stated my question like that not keeping temp. I do think I need a larger dampener like stated above, but with out having to have a new door done, my throughts were to put some vents on the sides of the box that I can adjust.
Plate covering hole from fire box
Opening on left hand side of pit where smoke comes
Fire box
Smoke box, my thought is to put a sliding dampener on each side of the box.
I hope this clears up any questions. If not let me know.
Starting to generate some participation on this Pit problem issue that's great, the more the merrier!
The only thing better than pics to try and solve this issue, would be to stand right in front of it and be able to look it all over. So back to looking at the pics we go! LOL
My take on this issue would be this, IMO More intake air isn't the answer. Reason why is this, with the door wide open you should have all the air you need for the fire to burn and burn as hot as you would like it to burn. IMO, The problem is a thing called Draw. The pit doesn't draw the heat and smoke through the chambers even and consistently to have more of a regulated constant temperature for proper cooking and or smoking.
My Theory and or observation on how a wood stove operates correctly is this. First, an airtight burn chamber or as close to an airtight burn chamber as you can have the better. Next for the fire to Burn correctly you must have an air intake and an exhaust out.
Air intake whatever size you would like, needs to be adjustable. let's say a 4" round hole with a 5" round plate that will swing over your 4" hole to adjust it. 4" full open or 1/2, 1/4, or close, whatever. Just move the 5" plate over your 4" to where you basically want your fire to burn at. Full 4" open hole is your highest air adjustment for your fire to burn the hottest it can.
Next and most importantly, the exhaust out! Your exhaust needs to be larger than your air intake. 4"air hole in, 5" or better yet 6" exhaust chimney out. Taller the exhaust stack the better for the Draw factor of your burned exhaust gasses out from your burn chamber.
Next the damper in your exhaust stack. This is a flat plate that is inside your 6" stack and can be adjusted to wide open, closed or anywhere in the middle to control the flow of your exhaust gasses leaving your burn chamber.
Now for the theory and understanding behind how everything works together. Oxygenated air molecules, colder air temps means these air molecules are closer together, when heated they expand and move away from each other and take up more room. This is the one reason it helps to have a large diameter 6"exhaust stack over the same size 4" diameter cold air intake hole.
With a sealed airtight burn chamber having just the 4" diameter intake hole as the ONLY source of air to feed your fire and a 6" exhaust stack out with damper wide open, you can get your fire to roar with a rocketing type sound. This is why a chimney flue pipe, exhaust temp gauge is an important tool to have on a wood/coal stove. This makes sure you don't let your exhaust chimney temp gasses become too hot and then you will run into a possible chimney fire situation from any Creosote build up you may have in your pipe?
Once again in theory you can have your 4" intake hole wide open to give your fire all the oxygen it needs for the fire to burn.Wide open air intake is not an issue with a airtight burn chamber.The damper is allowing you to control the DRAW of the heat and smoke from your burn chamber to flow through your RF smoker and out your exhaust stack, at the rate you want it to.
Having an airtight burn chamber is the key, whatever air that comes into the burn chamber and is heated rapidly and expands, has to go somewhere. Since heated air rises that is the direction it will flow the best. A chimney flue pipe will Draw and flow at a 45 degree angle, Straight up and out is the best for Max Draw of your exhaust out.
So now back to 56's issue with his pit. I am thinking that middle warming box might be part of the issue because of the hole that goes into the main chamber at the top and straight up and out the stack. The heat and smoke is going to want to take the easiest path out, so the heat and smoke is not traveling on the bottom under your meat like you would like it to and then go out your stack. Correct on this 56?
I hope my brief explanation on Draw and flow helps you look at your pit to trace the path your heat and smoke travels out, so maybe you can spot your problem? I am thinking maybe that top hole needs to be blocked off into your main cooking chamber so your pit Draws the heat and smoke like a RF. keep asking questions we will GET-R-DONE and figured out at some point! LOL
The only thing better than pics to try and solve this issue, would be to stand right in front of it and be able to look it all over. So back to looking at the pics we go! LOL
My take on this issue would be this, IMO More intake air isn't the answer. Reason why is this, with the door wide open you should have all the air you need for the fire to burn and burn as hot as you would like it to burn. IMO, The problem is a thing called Draw. The pit doesn't draw the heat and smoke through the chambers even and consistently to have more of a regulated constant temperature for proper cooking and or smoking.
My Theory and or observation on how a wood stove operates correctly is this. First, an airtight burn chamber or as close to an airtight burn chamber as you can have the better. Next for the fire to Burn correctly you must have an air intake and an exhaust out.
Air intake whatever size you would like, needs to be adjustable. let's say a 4" round hole with a 5" round plate that will swing over your 4" hole to adjust it. 4" full open or 1/2, 1/4, or close, whatever. Just move the 5" plate over your 4" to where you basically want your fire to burn at. Full 4" open hole is your highest air adjustment for your fire to burn the hottest it can.
Next and most importantly, the exhaust out! Your exhaust needs to be larger than your air intake. 4"air hole in, 5" or better yet 6" exhaust chimney out. Taller the exhaust stack the better for the Draw factor of your burned exhaust gasses out from your burn chamber.
Next the damper in your exhaust stack. This is a flat plate that is inside your 6" stack and can be adjusted to wide open, closed or anywhere in the middle to control the flow of your exhaust gasses leaving your burn chamber.
Now for the theory and understanding behind how everything works together. Oxygenated air molecules, colder air temps means these air molecules are closer together, when heated they expand and move away from each other and take up more room. This is the one reason it helps to have a large diameter 6"exhaust stack over the same size 4" diameter cold air intake hole.
With a sealed airtight burn chamber having just the 4" diameter intake hole as the ONLY source of air to feed your fire and a 6" exhaust stack out with damper wide open, you can get your fire to roar with a rocketing type sound. This is why a chimney flue pipe, exhaust temp gauge is an important tool to have on a wood/coal stove. This makes sure you don't let your exhaust chimney temp gasses become too hot and then you will run into a possible chimney fire situation from any Creosote build up you may have in your pipe?
Once again in theory you can have your 4" intake hole wide open to give your fire all the oxygen it needs for the fire to burn.Wide open air intake is not an issue with a airtight burn chamber.The damper is allowing you to control the DRAW of the heat and smoke from your burn chamber to flow through your RF smoker and out your exhaust stack, at the rate you want it to.
Having an airtight burn chamber is the key, whatever air that comes into the burn chamber and is heated rapidly and expands, has to go somewhere. Since heated air rises that is the direction it will flow the best. A chimney flue pipe will Draw and flow at a 45 degree angle, Straight up and out is the best for Max Draw of your exhaust out.
So now back to 56's issue with his pit. I am thinking that middle warming box might be part of the issue because of the hole that goes into the main chamber at the top and straight up and out the stack. The heat and smoke is going to want to take the easiest path out, so the heat and smoke is not traveling on the bottom under your meat like you would like it to and then go out your stack. Correct on this 56?
I hope my brief explanation on Draw and flow helps you look at your pit to trace the path your heat and smoke travels out, so maybe you can spot your problem? I am thinking maybe that top hole needs to be blocked off into your main cooking chamber so your pit Draws the heat and smoke like a RF. keep asking questions we will GET-R-DONE and figured out at some point! LOL
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Looks like the opening between the firebox and cook chamber needs to be bigger. The hole between the CC and warmer could also be bigger.
Is the warmer only heated from the hole coming out of the CC?
Looks to me like you have to many restrictions for heat and smoke to move through.
Is the warmer only heated from the hole coming out of the CC?
Looks to me like you have to many restrictions for heat and smoke to move through.
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Exactly like I was thinking.
Also tell us the total length of the stacks or stand back and take a pic that shows the total length .
- Mar 8, 2017
- 23
- 12
Just to update everyone, I took my pit to a good friend of mine that's a welder/pit builder. After his inspection he said that it's built like a tank, but the air intake on the smoke box was built wrong. They have the opening on top instead the bottom and instead of paying for a new door, he welded a stud on each side and drilled 3 holes. Pictures will explain better.
Anyway that did the trick, fire burns better, hotter & longer. I also had him build me a rack two hold two fryer racks and did some other tweaking. I also took it to the paint shop.
[/IMG]
Anyway that did the trick, fire burns better, hotter & longer. I also had him build me a rack two hold two fryer racks and did some other tweaking. I also took it to the paint shop.
noxwaste
Fire Starter
You wouldn't happen to be around the Lubbock area, would you? I noticed the Tech logo, and if you say there's some folks in the area that can put together pits, I'd like to contact them. But only if I'm able to at least guide them in the direction of how I want it built, haha..
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