Need Design help on custom patio build

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golfpro2301

Smoking Fanatic
Original poster
Jun 6, 2012
535
145
Jacksonville, FL
Well its time to start thinking about the new project since I just finished up the old (insulated and modded OKJ Longhorn). During this process Pop and I decided to build a high end smoker from scratch over the next 4-6 months. The good thing is my work build modular energy solutions and we use a lot of 24"-30" pipe 3/8" wall that I can get at scrap prices along with some steel plate. My basis of design is going to be the Outlaw Patio Model but going with 48-54" so I can do hog cooks. I also would like to make it a reverse flow option. By adding the reverse flow I ran into the below issues

-First due to lack of equipment I will be making the axles for golf cart wheels under the main CC only and FB will be hanging freely
-With the firebox insulated 2" I believe the top would be over the height of the main grate which would not be optimal for the exhaust as it would now have to sit higher.
-I can drop the FB down as low as possible but now run into issues with it being front loader and door making contact with rear wheels

Only solutions I see are:
-Exhaust out the back of the smoker like Matt's BBQ Pits (Not sure how this affects air flow, etc. I am not 100% sold on the look either)
-Run exhaust into FB and out the top. I would do 1" insulation between inner FB shell and bottom of smoker stack then pack in insulation around it. Will do bolted flange on top of FB for it to exit. This sounds like a pretty cool idea but also a ton of work I think.
Mount exhaust stack wherever it falls then do the pyramid drop on inside bringing exit down to grate level. I will need experts to chime in to let me know if this works the same as exhaust at grate level.

I plan to do bottom of FB intake and damper in exhaust like you see in Outlaw (how do you do these btw? I cant find any info on their fabrication)
All metal will be 1/4"-3/8". Will have removal stainless front shelf (pitmaker style) and possible stainless cap on FB. I may get creative and add a ceramic glass window on front of FB door to check on fire without opening door. I am still in process of designing opening dimensions but I have always heard that an insulated FB can be smaller than that indicated on Feldons calculator? Is that true and at what percentage is acceptable if insulated? 70,80,90,etc?

This is going to be a pretty long process and I am sure I will be asking for a lot of guidance along the way. I know I will probably being blown up daveomak daveomak inbox. New welder and plasma cutter being acquired within next few weeks and I will start with the frame. Steering will be based on tie rod and steering knuckle which I will make from scratch (dont like wagon style). Will post photos along the way.
 
I can’t give you much for design help, but I can’t wait to see the pictures as you make progress! Good luck!!!!
 
Due to pipe pricing and unsure if I can grab from work the design is now going to be a square body similar to the below (no radio but will have storage cabinet). Will still use front loader firebox with bottom damper design. This will also be reverse flow. Any issue with having box on the left side of the smoker? I thought I read somewhere years ago that it is not optimum and almost all cookers I see it is on the right.

To save costs is there any downside to doing a 1/8" thick cook chamber if it is insulated with 1" ceramic fiber blanket? I want to make sure smoker lasts atleast 10 years but also dont want to use too think of material. FB still be 1/4"
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Looks like im doing standard 24x by 48-54” long. Still waiting on pipe. Want to get started on FB and was wondering if 3/8” inner with 1/8” outer would be fine. 2” insulation between. I can get 1/8” for relatively cheap so thought I would ask
Due to where cooker has to sit on patio this will be a jambo/outlaw style with FB/CC opening at grate level
 
I found two pipes at my shop that may work but they are both sch 40 with crazy wall thickness. Plan to have 54” long CC and both were 24x72 and 30x72 and .68” wall thickness! That only gets me 22.5ish on a 24” pipe. 30” is too big for my application. Other thing is the weight at 170 and 230lbs/ft this would put the door at close to 200 lbs. I dont like look of counter weight and not sure I can manage a 200lb cook chamber door. Good this is these would be free

thoughts on worth using?
 
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