My first build fixing to get started....

Discussion in 'Reverse Flow' started by firemanjim, Feb 8, 2013.

  1. maple sticks

    maple sticks Smoking Fanatic

    Ethanethiol (stinky stuff) is a flammable liquid that evaporates at 68* F and is heaver than air. LP is also heaver than air. When I was ready to start my tank I rolled it up side down placing it on riser. I then inserted a air hose from a compressor into the drop tube of the tank. LP tanks have a tube under one of the plugs that goes to the bottom for removing the liquid gas. Because the tank is now up side down and all plugs removed the air is pushing heaver fumes out the openings of the tank. I did this in a VERY well ventilated area. the fumes are not good to breath. I do not recommend anyone try this. Its what I did and lived to tell about it. You might not.
  2. firemanjim

    firemanjim Fire Starter

    Ok... The smoker is now mounted to the trailer frame. Nice and level. Door is fully cut and metal surround is all welded on as well. RF plate goes in in the morning. Got a question so I hope someone chimes in tonight. The open end of the RF plate size needs to be same as the area the RF plate sits from the bottom correct??? My RF plate has a segment height of 8".So I am thinking I will leave a 8 1/2" gap from the RF plate end and the end of the tank. Sound about right guys??? I am also using a 3 3/4"ID pipe 49 5/8"long for my stack. Does it need to be welded flush with the top of the chamber or does it need to recess down into the cook chamber?? Hoping flush will work since I have cut it to length already. Thanks guys... Jim
  3. Yes the opening at the end needs to be at least the same as under the RF plate. A little bigger won't hurt a thing

    I would insert the stack down in the CC some. It will work welded flush though. You can come back and add onto the inside if you are not happy with it when you start cooking
  4. daveomak

    daveomak Smoking Guru OTBS Member SMF Premier Member

    I would extend the stack into the smoker about 4", if the length is what the calculator said....  That way, with the 3 3/4" ID pipe, 4" flex pipe should hose clamp onto it, to extend the exhaust near the food grate if you chose to do so....   Dave
  5. firemanjim

    firemanjim Fire Starter

    Hey Guys.  Got the Smoke stack installed today.  Set it down into the chamber 5 1/2".  That means I lost 5 1/2" off my height above the chamber.  I had already cut the pipe to the 49 5/8" that the calculator called for so loosing that 5 1/2" down into the chamber might screw it all up.  Guess we will see.  As you can see it is mounted to the trailer now.  The door is fully cut out as well.  It sprung a little on me so I got that to deal with as well.  I am wanting hot water on my trailer for washing dishes, hands, and such so I got this idea.  Might get about 25' of copper water line and make a coil under the rf plate with it.  Put 2 galv nipples thru the tank for a input and out put.  Wonder how that would work out?? Any thoughts??  Here is some pics ...

  6. daveomak

    daveomak Smoking Guru OTBS Member SMF Premier Member

    Jim, evening.... I think the gasses from the fire might cause a problem with the copper... You could put black iron pipe inside the cook chamber then couple to copper on the outside... or place a copper coil on top of the firebox, or under the firebox....  At elk camp, we put a stainless tank on top of the stove for hot water...  some folks hung the tank on the side of the stove...  How much hot water you thinking ??
  7. firemanjim

    firemanjim Fire Starter

    I am scratching the idea now Dave.  Just did some math and a 25' pc of 1/2" copper only holds 1/8 gallon of water so this idea is not feasible.  How will shortening the smoke stack above the cook chamber that 5 1/2" effect my smoker Dave??  Kinda worried about that....
  8. Jim,

    I don't think your pipe will be affected because it is still the same length...I may be wrong but I don't think so.  Going in 5.5 inches is a GREAT idea because it will allow the hottest air to remain in the smoker.  I like your design.  Mine is just starting.  I bought two 288 gallon tanks and a 175 gallon tank.  I'm going for dual smokers and the 175 is for burgers and dogs.  I bought a 18' trailer to mount it on.  My tanks have been sand blasted inside and out.  I cut the doors last week.  I will be starting to assemble thing this next week and hopefully have smokers in the next month or so.  I figured go big or go home....LOL   But seriously my brother owns a butcher shop and meat runs in the blood.
  9. daveomak

    daveomak Smoking Guru OTBS Member SMF Premier Member

    Jim, When you fire it up, if you think it is a problem, roll a piece of sheet metal around the stack, use a hose clamp and make an extension... If you  like the results, you can weld an extension or keep the sheet metal extension....  Dave
  10. rgacat

    rgacat Meat Mopper SMF Premier Member

    Great looking build you have going on there Jim.

    Ronnie G.
  11. Making good progress. I like it. I would not worry about the stack too much. I don't think that will make a noticable difference.

    I used a chain and bottle jack to fix my door that sprung in a little. It worked good. I posted a pic of it in my build thread, I don't have access to the pic now to post here and show you.
  12. firemanjim

    firemanjim Fire Starter

    OK....Guys I got a little further on the project these last couple of days.  Door Latches are on now.  Drains are installed.  Standoffs for RF Plate are in.  RF plate is now installed and drain from it is welded up and done.  Dam is in at the end of the RF plate so it can be a water pan as well if needed.  Tracks for the cooking racks are installed and braced up.  Holes drilled for my thermometers. Still got to do a little grinding on the welds. Well here are some pics of where I am at so far guys.  Any input is much appreciated.

  13. You're getting close to cooking something. Where did you put the thermo holes? I am thinking about putting one on each side of the door. Are you using something to seal up the holes, or just leaving them open?
  14. firemanjim

    firemanjim Fire Starter

    They are on each end of the door. I got the True Temple 150-750 degrees. They come with a installation kit.
  15. When I read the comment I was thinking about holes for probe wires. Now I see you were talking about the dial thermos. Sorry, I got confused.

    Now I have another question though. What does the installation kit consist of? I have 4 3" dial thermos that I plan on putting in the door of mine. They have 1/2" NPT male threads on the back. I have some couplings that I was going to cut to match the tank curve and weld them on. I am just curious to see other options.
  16. firemanjim

    firemanjim Fire Starter

    Installation kit is nothing but a washer and a big nut with a attached washer. $9.00 each....
  17. firemanjim

    firemanjim Fire Starter

    OK...Got a little further these last couple days.  Grates are built and installed.  Propane burner is now attached to trailer.  Wood box is built and complete. Trailer wiring is done.  Expanded metal for trailer floor is done and trailer hand rails are done.  Axe handle cook chamber door is installed.  Waiting on my 26 gallon gray water tank and my 16 gallon fresh water tanks from Northern Tool to arrive.  Got my 15"x15" stainless steel sink and faucet but waiting on the tanks to install these.  Hoping I can get this thing wrapped up before the "High on the Hog" KCBS competition on April 19-20 in Winchester TN.  Maybe I can get it done.  Here is some pics so far....

  18. thechuck

    thechuck Smoke Blower

    Looking really good Jim! Very nice handle too. Can't wait to see some Q-view...

  19. Awesome job.  I read your post regularly to see how you are doing.  Really nice job.  Hope you make it comp.
  20. cashmanq

    cashmanq Fire Starter

    Looks Great! fantastic Job.

Share This Page