MES Rewire Simple Guide - No Back Removal Needed!!!

[moussaka]

Yeah I think that smoke generator port will work. Just know that I've seen a post or 2 where people mention using a voltage controller like @dsk mentions for turning down the voltage on that smoke generator allows for it to smolder better.
I use an AMNPS and mailbox mod so can't speak to the MES smoke generator directly.

I'm hoping cycling every hour on/off will keep it in check. Otherwise, I'm just going to throw one of those pellet tubes in it and use that. Mailboxes aren't cheap anymore and I got this for a steal so worth a shot.
Actually, that's very cheap... I'm going to Harbor Freight anyways to grab a stand. Probably pick up one of those controllers too just in case.

 

[moussaka]

Man... Replaced the safety switch just because it's cheap and easy. Went to remove the metal pieces around the heating element and took the back cover off. The connectors were corroded to hell. Guess I'm buying a new element too lol. At this point, the internals are 100% new. I haven't even tried to turn it on yet. I hope this is worth it!

 

[dr k]

Man... Replaced the safety switch just because it's cheap and easy. Went to remove the metal pieces around the heating element and took the back cover off. The connectors were corroded to hell. Guess I'm buying a new element too lol. At this point, the internals are 100% new. I haven't even tried to turn it on yet. I hope this is worth it!

Keep the element and shine up the male spades on the legs of the element and ohm it for 12 ohms and save it for a back up element if there are no pits or burns through the outer metal jacket when you inspect both sides.

 

[tallbm]

Man... Replaced the safety switch just because it's cheap and easy. Went to remove the metal pieces around the heating element and took the back cover off. The connectors were corroded to hell. Guess I'm buying a new element too lol. At this point, the internals are 100% new. I haven't even tried to turn it on yet. I hope this is worth it!

The element is usually ok. Masterbuilt uses very crappy spade connectors on their wires so get some high temp ones 16 AWG 1/4 inch female spade connectors and you should be good to go. It helps to have a pack of good ones. I've never had to replace my own improved spade connectors, only the crappy Masterbuilt ones :D

 

[moussaka]

I did buy some new spades as well. But the male ends on the element itself were rusted to heck. New element kit was only $23 so not a big deal. It's already here and I'm throwing it in today.

 

[tallbm]

I did buy some new spades as well. But the male ends on the element itself were rusted to heck. New element kit was only $23 so not a big deal. It's already here and I'm throwing it in today.

Ah I see. I hope that solves it all

 

[chopsaw]

element kit was only $23 so not a big deal. It's already here and I'm throwing it in today.

Might not catch you in time , or this may or may not help .
This makes getting the ground on the mounting screw a little easier .
I used a seal pick pushed through from the back . Hang the eyelet over the pick .

Then slide the element bracket on the pick . Keeps the eyelet in place while you bolt it up .

 

[moussaka]

I just attached it to a screw that was still in place from one of the metal pieces over the element that I didn't put back. I think it'll be fine?
Did a 1hr test with Auber and it seemed to be working and held at 200. My other thermometer had battery corrosion so I have to test the Auber probe another day. Now I need to figure out my smoke box/chimney situation. Thanks again to every one who has helped get me this far!

 

[chopsaw]

I think it'll be fine?

Should be . As long as it's sandwiched in there and making contact .

 

[pi guy]

Ok, I know I'm being a bit of a pain in the a**, but reading through these threads is making me more confused. I'm pretty comfortable with technical details, and I work in the electronics industry (I'm not an Engineer however) so I get the concepts for the most part. Please let me know if I have this correct:
- The instructions you give at the beginning of this thread are just to bypass the MES controller?
- I then need to get an Auber PID. Can I use this one from Amazon that has wifi: https://www.amazon.com/Wireless-WIFI-Temperature-Humidity-Controller/dp/B06XFV4JT1/
or do I have to use this one that I saw referenced: https://www.auberins.com/index.php?main_page=product_info&products_id=110
or another model?
- I then plug the MES power cord into the PID and use it to control on-off and temp setting?
- Where does the SSR come into play/why is it used?

Thanks. I'm almost sold on this idea!

 

[tallbm]

Ok, I know I'm being a bit of a pain in the a**, but reading through these threads is making me more confused. I'm pretty comfortable with technical details, and I work in the electronics industry (I'm not an Engineer however) so I get the concepts for the most part. Please let me know if I have this correct:
- The instructions you give at the beginning of this thread are just to bypass the MES controller?
- I then need to get an Auber PID. Can I use this one from Amazon that has wifi: https://www.amazon.com/Wireless-WIFI-Temperature-Humidity-Controller/dp/B06XFV4JT1/
or do I have to use this one that I saw referenced: https://www.auberins.com/index.php?main_page=product_info&products_id=110
or another model?
- I then plug the MES power cord into the PID and use it to control on-off and temp setting?
- Where does the SSR come into play/why is it used?

Thanks. I'm almost sold on this idea!

No problem. Actually this will make everything nice and concise :D

1. Instructions to rewire will bypass the MES controller automatically. All the rewire is doing is connecting the MES plug wires to the wires that run to the MES heating element thereby making all the electronics in the MES useless because they no longer receive any power after the rewire.

2. That controller on Amazon only supports and controls up to 176F:

There is another version that supports 196F but any controllers like these I've seen simply aren't built to handle what an MES would need to do. These seem to be ok for homebrew and heating setups but not smoking meat.


The lowest model to use on an MES40 (and covers MES30) is the other link you posted (https://www.auberins.com/index.php?main_page=product_info&products_id=110) this is the WS-1510ELPM and choosing the multi-purpose probe is the way to go.
You can always go more powerful, more bells and whistles, and even the wifi (people love the ease of control and use with the phone app vs onboard buttons) but this one is the minimum level model that will go with no issue:

3. After the rewire, Yes.

• You plug the MES cord into the PID
• You plug the PID into the wall and drop the PID temp probe down the MES vent (I suggest clipping it to the bottom of the lowest smoker rack in the center)
• Finally, you punch in the temp you want into the PID

Now the PID will take power from the wall and feed it to the MES cord which is rewired to feed power to the MES heating element.
The PID will keep sending power to hit the temp you entered in and hold at that temp.


4. The SSR is inside the Auber PID controller already so you don't have to buy or use a separate one. The SSR's job is basically to act as an On/Off switch when the brain of the controller wants to cut power on/off to the MES. The SSR is made to be a workhorse and can handle all the switching versus other kinds of switches that may burn out due to the amount of switching that may happen to cut power on/off to hit and hold the temp.

Oh one final thing.
The cost of that Auber PID is like $160 which seems like a lot, BUT what you are getting is not measly little electrical device. With the rewire and the controller you are getting a whole new smoker that is nothing like it ever was before. A new smoker that performs like electric smokers that cost over $1,000.
I always say it's like turning a golf cart into a Ferrari.
It really is a whole completely different smoker so don't let the price tag make you think "for that price I could just buy a brand new MES or some other $200 smoker and have something brand new". This thought is completely off base once you convert your MES to run with a PID hahaha.
All us PID guys have been there so I figured I would throw this in, but don't take my word for it. Just ask and I'm positive you will get nothing but raving reviews and responses from all the guys who took the same journey :D


That's pretty much it. Keep asking any questions you have and we'll get them answered :D

 

[pi guy]

No problem. Actually this will make everything nice and concise :D

1. Instructions to rewire will bypass the MES controller automatically. All the rewire is doing is connecting the MES plug wires to the wires that run to the MES heating element thereby making all the electronics in the MES useless because they no longer receive any power after the rewire.

2. That controller on Amazon only supports and controls up to 176F:

View attachment 717617

There is another version that supports 196F but any controllers like these I've seen simply aren't built to handle what an MES would need to do. These seem to be ok for homebrew and heating setups but not smoking meat.


The lowest model to use on an MES40 (and covers MES30) is the other link you posted (https://www.auberins.com/index.php?main_page=product_info&products_id=110) this is the WS-1510ELPM and choosing the multi-purpose probe is the way to go.
You can always go more powerful, more bells and whistles, and even the wifi (people love the ease of control and use with the phone app vs onboard buttons) but this one is the minimum level model that will go with no issue:

View attachment 717618


3. After the rewire, Yes.

• You plug the MES cord into the PID
• You plug the PID into the wall and drop the PID temp probe down the MES vent (I suggest clipping it to the bottom of the lowest smoker rack in the center)
• Finally, you punch in the temp you want into the PID

Now the PID will take power from the wall and feed it to the MES cord which is rewired to feed power to the MES heating element.
The PID will keep sending power to hit the temp you entered in and hold at that temp.


4. The SSR is inside the Auber PID controller already so you don't have to buy or use a separate one. The SSR's job is basically to act as an On/Off switch when the brain of the controller wants to cut power on/off to the MES. The SSR is made to be a workhorse and can handle all the switching versus other kinds of switches that may burn out due to the amount of switching that may happen to cut power on/off to hit and hold the temp.
View attachment 717619


Oh one final thing.
The cost of that Auber PID is like $160 which seems like a lot, BUT what you are getting is not measly little electrical device. With the rewire and the controller you are getting a whole new smoker that is nothing like it ever was before. A new smoker that performs like electric smokers that cost over $1,000.
I always say it's like turning a golf cart into a Ferrari.
It really is a whole completely different smoker so don't let the price tag make you think "for that price I could just buy a brand new MES or some other $200 smoker and have something brand new". This thought is completely off base once you convert your MES to run with a PID hahaha.
All us PID guys have been there so I figured I would throw this in, but don't take my word for it. Just ask and I'm positive you will get nothing but raving reviews and responses from all the guys who took the same journey :D


That's pretty much it. Keep asking any questions you have and we'll get them answered :D

This is perfect, exactly the info and advice I needed, thank you.

I'll keep you posted as to how it goes. I do like the Wi-Fi idea, but depending on the price adder I may not have the funds now to do that. Wife is not happy the MES is dead, and that we have to pay any money at all to get something new, or get this one up and running. But she does love BBQ, so there's that in my corner. We'll see. LOL