MES 140|G Turning On But Not Heating

[ikenticus]

I see a lot of Masterbuilt 40" Electric Smoker threads, but I'm not certain that any of them match my criteria. I will try to describe my issue as briefly as possible. I thought I had a MB20074719, but it turns out I have a newer model, the MB20075519.

1. Owned my smoker for about 2 years and it worked like a champ
2. After critters tore apart my smoker cover, it may have gotten rained upon until I got a replacement cover
3. Suddenly, my smoker was tripping the breaker everytime the heating element turned on
4. Masterbuilt was not as helpful as some people claim, they gave me a claim number, said they would respond in 5 days but I never heard back
5. After some forum/youtube research, it sounded like the element, so I purchased a new $11 element from Masterbuilt, replaced it (had the new crimp connectors instead of the old ring ones -- so I cut, capped and heat-shrinked) and it seemed back to normal in Sept'22
6. First grill of May'23 and the day started off fine, smoker heated to 225. However, after opening the door to put more food inside, it no longer heated and, while it remained on, the temperature slowly dropped as if the element was no longer active

Now, tried the following things:
1. Fearing it was the element again, checked the element for holes, etc, and found it still looked brand new. Check the wiring, still looked as new as when I fixed it. Started tripping the breaker again, so I plugged it into my garage circuit to avoid running in and out of the house. Ran a few tests and, most of the time, it did not heat, although one time it did heat to 265, then stopped even when I did not open the door. The fact that it heated once or twice means the element and the contacts are fine, no?
2. Found one or two mentions of the resistence in the element contacts, so measured it and it was 12 ohms for the 1,200W element, as indicated
3. Found some youtube video where some lady fixed her Masterbuilt clicking but not heating but cleaning the top circuit board, so I undid the housing and that had no effect
4. Found a few others mentioned cleaning the temperature thermometer and limit with vinegar/water, so did that and no effect
5. Found your forum about checking if the bottom controller was fried, but it looks fine, unlike the burnt look of the MB20074719 in another post here

I posted the photos showing the control panel, bottom controller, element wires, cleaned limiter, and element measurements to illustrate how nothing looks faulty offhand.

Thinking about trying a few things, but wanted some advice from the folks here:
1. Replacing the KDS301 and/or probe? Seems like the temperature probe would be fine since it was reading the temperature when the smoker was heating and when it was not. However, since there is no panel, would have to cut the back sheet metal and would like to know that this could be a possible fix before I vandalize my "mostly pristine" smoker
2. Wanted to try the Simple Rewiring that tallbm posted about to see if that, at least, heats the element when you bypass the bottom controller. However, with 2 whites + red, black, blue wires, I could not figure out how to determine which was the #1#2 and $#3-#4 connections
3. Lastly, would consider installing a PID controller, but wanted to verify that the controller was bad (even though not burnt) and assumed the simple Rewriting Bypass would confirm that? Also, trying not to spend more money on the parts than I did on the smoker.

Thanks in advance for your patience and any advice provided.

 

[ikenticus]

I see a lot of Masterbuilt 40" Electric Smoker threads, but I'm not certain that any of them match my criteria. I will try to describe my issue as briefly as possible. I thought I had a MB20074719, but it turns out I have a newer model, the MB20075519.

1. Owned my smoker for about 2 years and it worked like a champ
2. After critters tore apart my smoker cover, it may have gotten rained upon until I got a replacement cover
3. Suddenly, my smoker was tripping the breaker everytime the heating element turned on
4. Masterbuilt was not as helpful as some people claim, they gave me a claim number, said they would respond in 5 days but I never heard back
5. After some forum/youtube research, it sounded like the element, so I purchased a new $11 element from Masterbuilt, replaced it (had the new crimp connectors instead of the old ring ones -- so I cut, capped and heat-shrinked) and it seemed back to normal in Sept'22
6. First grill of May'23 and the day started off fine, smoker heated to 225. However, after opening the door to put more food inside, it no longer heated and, while it remained on, the temperature slowly dropped as if the element was no longer active

Now, tried the following things:
1. Fearing it was the element again, checked the element for holes, etc, and found it still looked brand new. Check the wiring, still looked as new as when I fixed it. Started tripping the breaker again, so I plugged it into my garage circuit to avoid running in and out of the house. Ran a few tests and, most of the time, it did not heat, although one time it did heat to 265, then stopped even when I did not open the door. The fact that it heated once or twice means the element and the contacts are fine, no?
2. Found one or two mentions of the resistence in the element contacts, so measured it and it was 12 ohms for the 1,200W element, as indicated
3. Found some youtube video where some lady fixed her Masterbuilt clicking but not heating but cleaning the top circuit board, so I undid the housing and that had no effect
4. Found a few others mentioned cleaning the temperature thermometer and limit with vinegar/water, so did that and no effect
5. Found your forum about checking if the bottom controller was fried, but it looks fine, unlike the burnt look of the MB20074719 in another post here

I posted the photos showing the control panel, bottom controller, element wires, cleaned limiter, and element measurements to illustrate how nothing looks faulty offhand.

Thinking about trying a few things, but wanted some advice from the folks here:
1. Replacing the KDS301 and/or probe? Seems like the temperature probe would be fine since it was reading the temperature when the smoker was heating and when it was not. However, since there is no panel, would have to cut the back sheet metal and would like to know that this could be a possible fix before I vandalize my "mostly pristine" smoker
2. Wanted to try the Simple Rewiring that tallbm posted about to see if that, at least, heats the element when you bypass the bottom controller. However, with 2 whites + red, black, blue wires, I could not figure out how to determine which was the #1#2 and $#3-#4 connections
3. Lastly, would consider installing a PID controller, but wanted to verify that the controller was bad (even though not burnt) and assumed the simple Rewriting Bypass would confirm that? Also, trying not to spend more money on the parts than I did on the smoker.

Thanks in advance for your patience and any advice provided.

Figure I would try to measure the wires with the connectivity tester.

Power Plug: pL pR pG
Element: eL eR
Bottom:
Black solid short to pL
White solid short to pR

Blue braided short to pR
White braided (near Blue), short to pR

Red braided short to eL
White braided (near Red): open

Seems odd that the White braided near the Red braided is open and nothing shorts to the eR terminal... but not sure if that tells me it is because the limiter is stuck open or not? And not sure how the Simple Rewire would work without know the connection to the right element or the limiter.

Assuming this might elude to me replacing the limiter, I measured it from the outside wall: 5" from left, 15" from top --- which places it on top of the top third of the manufacturer sticker.

If nobody answers, I guess I'll try to cut open the sheet metal next weeked to measure the limiter, since that seems less risky than blindly shorting wires, LOL.

 

[tallbm]

I see a lot of Masterbuilt 40" Electric Smoker threads, but I'm not certain that any of them match my criteria. I will try to describe my issue as briefly as possible. I thought I had a MB20074719, but it turns out I have a newer model, the MB20075519.

1. Owned my smoker for about 2 years and it worked like a champ
2. After critters tore apart my smoker cover, it may have gotten rained upon until I got a replacement cover
3. Suddenly, my smoker was tripping the breaker everytime the heating element turned on
4. Masterbuilt was not as helpful as some people claim, they gave me a claim number, said they would respond in 5 days but I never heard back
5. After some forum/youtube research, it sounded like the element, so I purchased a new $11 element from Masterbuilt, replaced it (had the new crimp connectors instead of the old ring ones -- so I cut, capped and heat-shrinked) and it seemed back to normal in Sept'22
6. First grill of May'23 and the day started off fine, smoker heated to 225. However, after opening the door to put more food inside, it no longer heated and, while it remained on, the temperature slowly dropped as if the element was no longer active

Now, tried the following things:
1. Fearing it was the element again, checked the element for holes, etc, and found it still looked brand new. Check the wiring, still looked as new as when I fixed it. Started tripping the breaker again, so I plugged it into my garage circuit to avoid running in and out of the house. Ran a few tests and, most of the time, it did not heat, although one time it did heat to 265, then stopped even when I did not open the door. The fact that it heated once or twice means the element and the contacts are fine, no?
2. Found one or two mentions of the resistence in the element contacts, so measured it and it was 12 ohms for the 1,200W element, as indicated
3. Found some youtube video where some lady fixed her Masterbuilt clicking but not heating but cleaning the top circuit board, so I undid the housing and that had no effect
4. Found a few others mentioned cleaning the temperature thermometer and limit with vinegar/water, so did that and no effect
5. Found your forum about checking if the bottom controller was fried, but it looks fine, unlike the burnt look of the MB20074719 in another post here

I posted the photos showing the control panel, bottom controller, element wires, cleaned limiter, and element measurements to illustrate how nothing looks faulty offhand.

Thinking about trying a few things, but wanted some advice from the folks here:
1. Replacing the KDS301 and/or probe? Seems like the temperature probe would be fine since it was reading the temperature when the smoker was heating and when it was not. However, since there is no panel, would have to cut the back sheet metal and would like to know that this could be a possible fix before I vandalize my "mostly pristine" smoker
2. Wanted to try the Simple Rewiring that tallbm posted about to see if that, at least, heats the element when you bypass the bottom controller. However, with 2 whites + red, black, blue wires, I could not figure out how to determine which was the #1#2 and $#3-#4 connections
3. Lastly, would consider installing a PID controller, but wanted to verify that the controller was bad (even though not burnt) and assumed the simple Rewriting Bypass would confirm that? Also, trying not to spend more money on the parts than I did on the smoker.

Thanks in advance for your patience and any advice provided.

Hi there and welcome!

Good work and thanks for providing all of the info.

With what you describe for it's behavior and what you have tested, I bet your safety limit switch or the connectors at the safety limit switch are failing. That safety limit switch is normally closed but if it has melted down or the connectors have corroded away then you aren't getting power through it.

You will have to cut a panel to get to it but that's not a bad thing. That switch is made of cheap materials so being able to access and replace that switch at any point will be handy once you have a panel cut into it.

Once you cut the panel you may see the issue is obvious with a melted down safety limit switch or bad connectors. If not it is still good to disconnect the wire ends and "jump" them to each other and see if your smoker heats up.
If it does then you know the switch is bad.

Do this and let us know what you find.

***Also note what color the wires are going from the circuit board to the safety limit switch and coming out of the safety limit switch (I bet Blue Braided going to safety limit switch and Black Braided coming out which then goes to the heating element).

 

[cmayna]

Hope you get the MES back up and running. Lots of very experienced soles here, willing to help. Let us know what you find regarding the limit safety switch. Oh and welcome to SMF

 

[ikenticus]

Hi there and welcome!

Good work and thanks for providing all of the info.

With what you describe for it's behavior and what you have tested, I bet your safety limit switch or the connectors at the safety limit switch are failing. That safety limit switch is normally closed but if it has melted down or the connectors have corroded away then you aren't getting power through it.

You will have to cut a panel to get to it but that's not a bad thing. That switch is made of cheap materials so being able to access and replace that switch at any point will be handy once you have a panel cut into it.

Once you cut the panel you may see the issue is obvious with a melted down safety limit switch or bad connectors. If not it is still good to disconnect the wire ends and "jump" them to each other and see if your smoker heats up.
If it does then you know the switch is bad.

Do this and let us know what you find.

***Also note what color the wires are going from the circuit board to the safety limit switch and coming out of the safety limit switch (I bet Blue Braided going to safety limit switch and Black Braided coming out which then goes to the heating element).

Ironically, Masterbuilt replied to my email from LAST year after I sent a NEW email about this particular issue as well as a reply to the OLD email complaining that they never replied. After 4-5 back-and-forth messages about dumb boilerplate items like:

• what is your model number?
• when does it trip the GCFI? (when the element turns on and clicks)
• instructions to reconnect Bluetooth (which works, only disconnects when the unit get hot)

they finally responded today with a message that said: "Based on the information provided the element of your unit needs to be replaced."

Well, guess what, Masterbuilt? When you did not respond to me last year, I went and ordered the part myself from your site and replaced it already. Does this mean that it is under warranty and you should send me another one for free?

We'll see if they respond to my other newer email thread one of these days.

 

[cmayna]

Wow! Never knew Masterbuilt's customer service is sooooo.......

Very sorry you are going thru this. Hopefully they will make it good for you in the very near future.

 

[tallbm]

Ironically, Masterbuilt replied to my email from LAST year after I sent a NEW email about this particular issue as well as a reply to the OLD email complaining that they never replied. After 4-5 back-and-forth messages about dumb boilerplate items like:

• what is your model number?
• when does it trip the GCFI? (when the element turns on and clicks)
• instructions to reconnect Bluetooth (which works, only disconnects when the unit get hot)

they finally responded today with a message that said: "Based on the information provided the element of your unit needs to be replaced."

Well, guess what, Masterbuilt? When you did not respond to me last year, I went and ordered the part myself from your site and replaced it already. Does this mean that it is under warranty and you should send me another one for free?

We'll see if they respond to my other newer email thread one of these days.

Wow lol.

I'm 99% sure they are wrong about the issue being your heating element. Your 12 ohms on the 1200 watts prove there is no issue with resistance in your element.

My money is on the safety limit switch failing, after the images and info you provided :)

 

[ikenticus]

Unfortunately, I was only able to allocate about an hour of time this weekend to troubleshoot, so I knew I was not going to be able to completely fix the problem, only diagnose. I had read that the sheet metal is relatively easy to score with box cutter, but after running it along the same line a dozen times, I wasn't getting anywhere, so I went more brute force --- I drilled a few holes and proceeded to cut it with my "duct scissors" which I had bought to fix some vent work previously. Obviously this would NOT be as surgical or clean as if I was able to cut it open with a box cutter and my T-square.

Regardless of the method, I did confirm that the limiter was "open" so it definitely needs to be replaced. However, I am starting to hate Masterbuilt logic because all the wires near the limiter were literally pressed AGAINST the sheet metal by the "cotton-like" insulation. No mater how I cut open the sheet metal, I suspect I would have severed and nicked just as many wires as I wound up doing. Therefore, I was not able to do more readings because I will have to repair the wire connections first next time. I duct taped all the rough edges to cover it up for next time.

Was wondering if anybody had any advice on the following repair steps I will need to take:
1. Wanted to simply solder the wires directly to the limiter and use heat shrink tubing --- unless you guys disagree and I need to purchase some replacement flag terminals?
2. to repairs the nicked/severed wires, can I simply buy some small wire nuts to strip the existing wires and re-attach them? (Albeit, I need some smaller ones than what I have in stock at the moment)

Photos to illustrate what I discovered and the ugliness of my sheet metal surgery:

 

[tallbm]

Unfortunately, I was only able to allocate about an hour of time this weekend to troubleshoot, so I knew I was not going to be able to completely fix the problem, only diagnose. I had read that the sheet metal is relatively easy to score with box cutter, but after running it along the same line a dozen times, I wasn't getting anywhere, so I went more brute force --- I drilled a few holes and proceeded to cut it with my "duct scissors" which I had bought to fix some vent work previously. Obviously this would NOT be as surgical or clean as if I was able to cut it open with a box cutter and my T-square.

Regardless of the method, I did confirm that the limiter was "open" so it definitely needs to be replaced. However, I am starting to hate Masterbuilt logic because all the wires near the limiter were literally pressed AGAINST the sheet metal by the "cotton-like" insulation. No mater how I cut open the sheet metal, I suspect I would have severed and nicked just as many wires as I wound up doing. Therefore, I was not able to do more readings because I will have to repair the wire connections first next time. I duct taped all the rough edges to cover it up for next time.

Was wondering if anybody had any advice on the following repair steps I will need to take:
1. Wanted to simply solder the wires directly to the limiter and use heat shrink tubing --- unless you guys disagree and I need to purchase some replacement flag terminals?
2. to repairs the nicked/severed wires, can I simply buy some small wire nuts to strip the existing wires and re-attach them? (Albeit, I need some smaller ones than what I have in stock at the moment)

Photos to illustrate what I discovered and the ugliness of my sheet metal surgery:

Answers to your repair questions first then giving you some more info after:
1. If you buy ceramic safety limit switches you can do some soldering. As was brought up in a different thread you may still want to use crimp connectors and crimp the female spades to the wires then solder them. This is like double duty so they don't losen up. THEN you could connect the wires to the safety limit switch spade and likely dab some solder there as well.
If you try to solder to the plastic safety limit switches I think you will melt them down, they can't handle much heat and are delicate little switches.
Here is a link to some ceramic switches that fit and are available within a couple days shipping

https://www.amazon.com/a13092400ux0093-Ceramic-Temperature-Thermostat-Celsius/dp/B00GN61OO6/ref=sr_1_20?crid=I994WM7OPNNI&keywords=KSD301+150C+%22ceramic%22&qid=1686540392&sprefix=ksd301+150c+ceramic+%2Caps%2C304&sr=8-20

BUY THESE EXACT ONES!!! You might find cheaper ones but thee are 2 different styles of switches and though both look the same only 1 style actually works so get these exact switches! Also these are like 9F degrees higher than the stock stich (150C/302F) but that wont hurt anything.

While you're ordering parts you may as well get these Hi Temp spade connectors too. The masterbuilt ones are garbage and will corrode or burn up on you fast so safe yourself the headache while you are already working on the MES and just replace them with these:

https://www.amazon.com/Supco-T1111-Disconnect-Temperature-Female/dp/B0071NC5NO/ref=sr_1_1?crid=WV6108LSHCNQ&keywords=supco+t1111&qid=1686540849&sprefix=supco+t1111%2Caps%2C163&sr=8-1

2. Yeah you can simply wire nut those wires together. A simpler solution may be to slide on some small heat shrink insulation onto the wires and move it down the wire.
Then just solder the cut wires together.
Finally, slide the insulation up over the solder point and heat shrink it in place.
Wire nuts or soldering or whatever should all work.

Answers done.

More info time!

It would be wise to repair the little wires 1st and make sure the controller works.
Once that is done it would be good to 100% confirm your existing switch is the problem by connecting the 2 wires together that hook into the busted safety limit switch. By passing the switch you can turn on the smoker and see if it heats up. This will identify that you ONLY have a problem with the safety limit switch.

If that is the case then you just need to replace the switch unless you (WARNING) want to run it with a bypassed switch, but do this at your own risk. This is also an option should your switch be delayed and you want to get to smoking ASAP and replace the switch later when it comes in, but again at your own peril because of a removed safety device.

Next, when you are doing all this, it would also be wise to swap out the heating element connectors for the high temp ones I linked to you. Those connectors will fail there in the future if they aren't already starting to. May as well get this all done at once because the stock MES connectors are absolute trash.

Finally, when working with the safety limit switch, it is best to assemble it all BEFORE fastening the switch back in place. I found these safety switches to be super delicate so I actually put the connectors on them first THEN crimped in the wire ends. If you cause ANY wiggle in the safety switch connector tabs... it is going to fail on you in short order... I learned this the hard way and with a number of switches lol.
So I always suggest you gently put the connectors on the switch tabs without wiggling the tabs at all.
Then crimp the wires into the connectors (solder too at this point if you like). Then finish by fastening it all to the MES.

Good job on finding what seems to be the issue and know that you are on your way to keeping your MES running forever.
Once the top controller or bottom circuit board goes out we can talk about a simple rewire and using a PID controller to turn your MES into a whole other super high performing beast!!! :D

 

[ikenticus]

Answers to your repair questions first then giving you some more info after:
1. If you buy ceramic safety limit switches you can do some soldering. As was brought up in a different thread you may still want to use crimp connectors and crimp the female spades to the wires then solder them. This is like double duty so they don't losen up. THEN you could connect the wires to the safety limit switch spade and likely dab some solder there as well.
If you try to solder to the plastic safety limit switches I think you will melt them down, they can't handle much heat and are delicate little switches.
Here is a link to some ceramic switches that fit and are available within a couple days shipping

https://www.amazon.com/a13092400ux0093-Ceramic-Temperature-Thermostat-Celsius/dp/B00GN61OO6/ref=sr_1_20?crid=I994WM7OPNNI&keywords=KSD301+150C+%22ceramic%22&qid=1686540392&sprefix=ksd301+150c+ceramic+%2Caps%2C304&sr=8-20

BUY THESE EXACT ONES!!! You might find cheaper ones but thee are 2 different styles of switches and though both look the same only 1 style actually works so get these exact switches! Also these are like 9F degrees higher than the stock stich (150C/302F) but that wont hurt anything.

While you're ordering parts you may as well get these Hi Temp spade connectors too. The masterbuilt ones are garbage and will corrode or burn up on you fast so safe yourself the headache while you are already working on the MES and just replace them with these:

https://www.amazon.com/Supco-T1111-Disconnect-Temperature-Female/dp/B0071NC5NO/ref=sr_1_1?crid=WV6108LSHCNQ&keywords=supco+t1111&qid=1686540849&sprefix=supco+t1111%2Caps%2C163&sr=8-1

2. Yeah you can simply wire nut those wires together. A simpler solution may be to slide on some small heat shrink insulation onto the wires and move it down the wire.
Then just solder the cut wires together.
Finally, slide the insulation up over the solder point and heat shrink it in place.
Wire nuts or soldering or whatever should all work.

Answers done.

More info time!

It would be wise to repair the little wires 1st and make sure the controller works.
Once that is done it would be good to 100% confirm your existing switch is the problem by connecting the 2 wires together that hook into the busted safety limit switch. By passing the switch you can turn on the smoker and see if it heats up. This will identify that you ONLY have a problem with the safety limit switch.

If that is the case then you just need to replace the switch unless you (WARNING) want to run it with a bypassed switch, but do this at your own risk. This is also an option should your switch be delayed and you want to get to smoking ASAP and replace the switch later when it comes in, but again at your own peril because of a removed safety device.

Next, when you are doing all this, it would also be wise to swap out the heating element connectors for the high temp ones I linked to you. Those connectors will fail there in the future if they aren't already starting to. May as well get this all done at once because the stock MES connectors are absolute trash.

Finally, when working with the safety limit switch, it is best to assemble it all BEFORE fastening the switch back in place. I found these safety switches to be super delicate so I actually put the connectors on them first THEN crimped in the wire ends. If you cause ANY wiggle in the safety switch connector tabs... it is going to fail on you in short order... I learned this the hard way and with a number of switches lol.
So I always suggest you gently put the connectors on the switch tabs without wiggling the tabs at all.
Then crimp the wires into the connectors (solder too at this point if you like). Then finish by fastening it all to the MES.

Good job on finding what seems to be the issue and know that you are on your way to keeping your MES running forever.
Once the top controller or bottom circuit board goes out we can talk about a simple rewire and using a PID controller to turn your MES into a whole other super high performing beast!!! :D

Thanks, tallbm -- I already purchase the ceramic limiters and have them in hand. I will buy the recommended flag connectors now. Awesome idea about soldering the fray wires and heat shrink, I will have to try that method because it sounds cleaner that having all the nuts hanging about!

 

[choochooman442]

Instead of Duct tape, which won't last long, get some aluminum foil tape. Something like this.

 

[ikenticus]

Instead of Duct tape, which won't last long, get some aluminum foil tape. Something like this.

That's a good point, choochooman442 . I should actually have some in the house because I had gotten the same advice when I was actually doing some "duct" work and, despite the name, duct tape does not handle heat nor time as well as aluminum foil tape.

I was just using the duct tape (as that always seems so easily found) to run across all the sharp edges before I covered the smoker for the night as I had already gotten one or two pokes which make me check for sheet metal splinters --- luckily I had not cut myself with the edges thus far and I layid the duct tape over them for extra protection.

 

[tallbm]

That's a good point, choochooman442 . I should actually have some in the house because I had gotten the same advice when I was actually doing some "duct" work and, despite the name, duct tape does not handle heat nor time as well as aluminum foil tape.

I was just using the duct tape (as that always seems so easily found) to run across all the sharp edges before I covered the smoker for the night as I had already gotten one or two pokes which make me check for sheet metal splinters --- luckily I had not cut myself with the edges thus far and I layid the duct tape over them for extra protection.

Yeah gotta watch the cuts. I just hit mine with a metal file that I had in the toolbox.
I also used the aluminum flue tape since I had a roll.
My panel was just a square of sheet aluminum covering the square hole I cut. I fastened with sheet metal screws and then put aluminum flue tape around the edges so no water could ever get in... even though it's in it's own covered storage container. I don't want condensation leaking in.

 

[ikenticus]

Okay, my soldering is shite, but somehow the thing seems to be working after my horrible snip + splice + tinning + heatshrink abominable surgery... I turned it on, let it reach temp, opened the door to release and let it drop, then watched it climb back up. Afterward, I disconnected it from my garage circuit and reconnected it to my outside outlets (because this was where it gets annoying if it tripped the GCFI) and it seems to be working like it was brand new. Did the open door test again (since that burned me last BBQ), and going to do the same test over and over and over again until I feel more confident about this weekend's BBQ (otherwise my wife does not want me to make shotgun shells without the smoker).

 

[tallbm]

Okay, my soldering is shite, but somehow the thing seems to be working after my horrible snip + splice + tinning + heatshrink abominable surgery... I turned it on, let it reach temp, opened the door to release and let it drop, then watched it climb back up. Afterward, I disconnected it from my garage circuit and reconnected it to my outside outlets (because this was where it gets annoying if it tripped the GCFI) and it seems to be working like it was brand new. Did the open door test again (since that burned me last BBQ), and going to do the same test over and over and over again until I feel more confident about this weekend's BBQ (otherwise my wife does not want me to make shotgun shells without the smoker).

Good job man!

Looks like you are back in business. Now, let us know when the day comes that you want to bypass the MES electronics and drastically improve the performance of this smoker through the use of a PID controller :D

Looking forward to seeing what you make now with the fixed MES :)

 

[ikenticus]

Good job man!

Looks like you are back in business. Now, let us know when the day comes that you want to bypass the MES electronics and drastically improve the performance of this smoker through the use of a PID controller :D

Looking forward to seeing what you make now with the fixed MES :)

I think, if I want to build a custom PID, I would want to use your bypass so that I can just plug the Masterbuilt into the PID unit. None of the measurements seems to have changed after I replace the limiter, so based on your rewiring post:

1. Black Solid
2. White Solid
3. Rollout & Heating Element Black Braided Wire
4. Neutral Element Black Braided Wire
Where you connect 1+3 and 2+4

I would assume from mine, I would do the same if I numbered accordingly:
1. Plug -> Black Solid -> Control Board
2. Plug -> White Solid -> Control Board
3. Element -> Black Braid -> Thermal Limiter -> Blue Braid -> Control Board
4. Element -> Red Braided -> Control Board
So I would short Black Solid with Blue Braid, White Solid with Red Braid

 

[tallbm]

I think, if I want to build a custom PID, I would want to use your bypass so that I can just plug the Masterbuilt into the PID unit. None of the measurements seems to have changed after I replace the limiter, so based on your rewiring post:

1. Black Solid
2. White Solid
3. Rollout & Heating Element Black Braided Wire
4. Neutral Element Black Braided Wire
Where you connect 1+3 and 2+4

I would assume from mine, I would do the same if I numbered accordingly:
1. Plug -> Black Solid -> Control Board
2. Plug -> White Solid -> Control Board
3. Element -> Black Braid -> Thermal Limiter -> Blue Braid -> Control Board
4. Element -> Red Braided -> Control Board
So I would short Black Solid with Blue Braid, White Solid with Red Braid

You are correct! A simple rule to think of is Solid to Braided.
Never 2 wires of the same insulation type :D

As for building one. Unless you have the tools, materials, and ability to easily and accurately cut on enclosure boxes (not simple), then it is more cost effective to buy a whole complete built unit.

If you like the idea of building one and like taking on the project then the cost savings is not really a factor.
If you decide to build one, be sure to let us know. I have tons of "lessons learned" on how to avoid so many little unknown issues.... like how most of the components from China (switches, fuse holders, outlets, etc.) are all trash and melt down on you in like no time. No matter what Amperage they say they support, they will melt down on you lol.

 

[ikenticus]

Yeah, you've got some great posts in your signature. I think the PID that seems to be endorsed the most here is the:

$150 Auber WS-1510ELPM Multi Purpose Controller:

Multi Purpose Controller [WS-1510ELPM] - $159.95 : Auber Instruments, Inc., Temperature control solutions for home and industry

Auber Instruments, Inc. Multi Purpose Controller [WS-1510ELPM] - The WS-1510ELPM is a versatile temperature controller to have in your home. It can be used for various applications such as Sous Vide cooking, controlling an electric smoker, making yogurt, dough proofing, controlling the...

www.auberins.com

But not sure the wife would appreciate me buying that for hobby tinkering. I was thinking of:

$58 Inkbird PID Temperature Controller Kit and Plastic Junction Box

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B098Q4RMZ3/?coliid=I1BWD1RQ6OI3VI&colid=2081BY0NAY51Y&psc=1&ref_=list_c_wl_lv_ov_lig_dp_it

$12 Combination Toggle Light Switch and Duplex Receptacle Outlet

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07WS31L87/?coliid=I91R2VKXSCD19&colid=2081BY0NAY51Y&psc=1&ref_=list_c_wl_lv_ov_lig_dp_it

There is that auusiebrewer dude on YouTube tinkering with all kinds of $20 PIDs that people keep referencing and he even jokes about the instructions terribly translated directly from Chinese, but that did not seem to bother him as he built the PIDs that he used with moonshine-like contraptions, LOL.

If I do tinker, I was wondering if there was a "male" connector recommended to couple the solid and braided "female" spade connectors on those wires rather than cutting off the connectors for tinkering? I was having trouble finding and from Supco on Amazon.

 

[choochooman442]

You can just cut a piece of sheet metal to fit or your local hardware or auto store should have a double male connector. Better choice would be to cut off connectors and solder them together and heat shrink them. If you want an easy way to solder and heat shrink check out the all in one type connectors like those in the link. Local Auto Parts store may sell them individually.

https://www.amazon.com/Kuject-Connectors-Waterproof-Electrical-Automotive/dp/B073RMRCC3/ref=sr_1_22_sspa?crid=35O8U1C6T0UBX&keywords=self+contained+wiring+solder+connector&qid=1686750336&sprefix=self+contained+wiring+solder+connector%2Caps%2C81&sr=8-22-spons&psc=1&smid=ANYCM9RSLDH7Y&spLa=ZW5jcnlwdGVkUXVhbGlmaWVyPUEzVUVFVVVKVURVSUJLJmVuY3J5cHRlZElkPUEwMDY1NTU1MVlMTjk4Qzk5Q1NWOSZlbmNyeXB0ZWRBZElkPUEwMDc1NDE3MllVSUVXSzRUOFJFUCZ3aWRnZXROYW1lPXNwX2J0ZiZhY3Rpb249Y2xpY2tSZWRpcmVjdCZkb05vdExvZ0NsaWNrPXRydWU=

 

[cmayna]

As far as I'm concerned, regarding PIDs, you get what you pay for. Go Auber and you'll never look back.