Masterbuilt Tripping GFI Outlet

[raselkirk]

Is this the right element? Looks correct, but it's 3x's what Masterbuilt gets for theirs - if - it's ever in stock...

Russ

 

[HBFoxJr]

Correct. It is called impedance. How much resistance is detected in a flow of electricity. More precisely, current. So, if a element is starting to break down. It can cause a GFIC trip. But a normal grounded circuit wouldn't detect this. Is it dangerous? Under the wrong circumstances it could be. It is a better idea to replace the element.

I have the same GFI problem. I have replace the outdoor outlet I plug into and the GFI on my covered porch that feeds it. On a recent use my MES 20071910 tripped the breaker after 30 minutes or less. I ran a heavy cord into the house and plugged into the same circuit and all ran well. More recently the GFI tripped immediately when plugged in. Ran my cord indoors and worked fine again. I disconnected the element and can now power on the control. Testing shows no short and 18 ohms on an 800 watt element. No corrosion. Element connected, the GFI trips immediately when the power button is pushed. That even before a temp can be selected. Is it the element shorting under a small test current when the power button is pushed?

 

[Steve H]

I have the same GFI problem. I have replace the outdoor outlet I plug into and the GFI on my covered porch that feeds it. On a recent use my MES 20071910 tripped the breaker after 30 minutes or less. I ran a heavy cord into the house and plugged into the same circuit and all ran well. More recently the GFI tripped immediately when plugged in. Ran my cord indoors and worked fine again. I disconnected the element and can now power on the control. Testing shows no short and 18 ohms on an 800 watt element. No corrosion. Element connected, the GFI trips immediately when the power button is pushed. That even before a temp can be selected. Is it the element shorting under a small test current when the power button is pushed?

With the tests you have performed. I would say that would be the case. I would replace the element.

 

[raselkirk]

Well, bit the bullet and bought the new element off Amazon and it solved the GFI problem. Shame on me, I didn't ohm the new one, but did think to do the old one (18.5 Ω) after pulling it.

On another note, I've had this box 10 years or so and just now noticed (from behind) that whoever sprayed the foam insulation inside got so carried away that the top and back are bulged out enough that the seams are apart and the electronic panel on top is pushed up away from the box. Oh well, better too much than not enough!

Russ

 

[Steve H]

Good to hear!

 

[dr k]

Well, bit the bullet and bought the new element off Amazon and it solved the GFI problem. Shame on me, I didn't ohm the new one, but did think to do the old one (18.5 Ω) after pulling it.

On another note, I've had this box 10 years or so and just now noticed (from behind) that whoever sprayed the foam insulation inside got so carried away that the top and back are bulged out enough that the seams are apart and the electronic panel on top is pushed up away from the box. Oh well, better too much than not enough!

Russ

Split plastic on the top and bottom of the door.

 

[bill1]

... I didn't ohm the new one, but did think to do the old one (18.5 Ω) after pulling it...

The cold resistance of an element, terminal-to-terminal, is just a verification you have the correct wattage filament. 120V-squared divided by 18.5 ohms = 800 watts.
What's tripping the GFCI is terminal-to-case-ground resistance. 5ma at 120V trips the GFCI so that resistance to ground has dropped below 24kilo-ohm when you tripped. You might want to check that value now on the old one. A new one should be close to a megohm. This one might be >24kOhm cold but get less resistive when it heats up. Still, I'd be curious what the reading is.