Making own wood chunks and chips

[DaveWNY]

To all:

I have access to the 2nd largest apple orchard/farm in upstate NY and basically have all the applewood that I could ever use at my disposal. My question come from how long to season the wood?

I was thinking that seasoned wood is going to be better, but since I have a moisture meter would I take it down to as low as I normally would for burning in a stove for home heating Less than 20% or do others basically start to chunk and chip it up once it hits 30%

I was thinking that if seasoned the 30% mark would be ok which for my area and using apple is about 1 year after cutting and splitting since it will have a bit of moisture but not have enough to fully burn....

Thoughts?

By the way my MPS XL should arrive tomorrow!!! No more smoking on the grill unless it is for small batches!!!

 

[gmc2003]

Split it and let it season for about two years. It may take longer. Especially since you don't live in a dryer climate.

Chris

 

[DaveWNY]

Chris,

So you are targeting 20% or less then.. OK good to know.

 

[dcecil]

That would be awesome to have access like that to apple. Welcome to the site from California

 

[browneyesvictim]

I use a moisture meter too for gauging the firewood in my woodstove and also my smoke wood. And yes, I generally target the same <20% moisture content for the smoker wood chunks I use. I have found the dryer it is the cleaner the smoke just like any other fire. Depending how big the pieces of wood are it can be shorter time to get seasoned and with the right amount of air flow. The chunks I have made from around the property are maple, oak, cherry, alder and hazelnut. They season for about a year in the whole, and then cut into firewood sized lengths then get cut into disks about 2 to 2-1/2 thick on the miter saw or band saw depending on the diameter. Then a hatchet makes them into briquette sized pieces. The more surface area = faster drying time. I took out a peach tree last year that I am chomping at the bit to use!

 

[DaveWNY]

I use a moisture meter too for gauging the firewood in my woodstove and also my smoke wood. And yes, I generally target the same <20% moisture content for the smoker wood chunks I use. I have found the dryer it is the cleaner the smoke just like any other fire. Depending how big the pieces of wood are it can be shorter time to get seasoned and with the right amount of air flow. The chunks I have made from around the property are maple, oak, cherry, alder and hazelnut. They season for about a year in the whole, and then cut into firewood sized lengths then get cut into disks about 2 to 2-1/2 thick on the miter saw or band saw depending on the diameter. Then a hatchet makes them into briquette sized pieces. The more surface area = faster drying time. I took out a peach tree last year that I am chomping at the bit to use!

Interesting.... I have been very reluctant to use peach mostly due to the fact that the tree will concentrate amygdalin into the pits of the fruit. This eventually will break down into Hydrogen Cyanide if ingested by humans... My question really follows the idea of using the wood, especially if green.

I very well could be just playing into a misnomer or urban legend on this one, but I know that peach trees do absorb more "stuff" than let's say an apple or even other stone fruit trees. I'd be very interested in seeing if someone has more on this. (By the way I have also reached out to Penn State Ag and Cornell co-op Extension on this and have not heard back yet).

 

[browneyesvictim]

Interesting.... I have been very reluctant to use peach mostly due to the fact that the tree will concentrate amygdalin into the pits of the fruit. This eventually will break down into Hydrogen Cyanide if ingested by humans... My question really follows the idea of using the wood, especially if green.

I very well could be just playing into a misnomer or urban legend on this one, but I know that peach trees do absorb more "stuff" than let's say an apple or even other stone fruit trees. I'd be very interested in seeing if someone has more on this. (By the way I have also reached out to Penn State Ag and Cornell co-op Extension on this and have not heard back yet).

I have heard about the pits containing toxins. But that's the first time I have heard anything about peach wood being bad as smoke wood. You can even buy it commercially. It is supposed to be real good with poultry. It will be interesting to hear what your local extension has to say. I know there is a smoke wood index around here...

 

[DaveWNY]

So I have heard back and it basically bad to burn the green leaves and the wilted ones will concentrate any cyanide and obviously the pits of the fruit. Outside of that, there is not enough of what is deemed "bad" to be worried about. The leaves are really where the toxins are concentrated in the live tree. Basically they focus on keeping pets away from the fruit and the livestock away from the fruit and leaves but do not have any restrictions for humans....

 

[gnubee]

I used to have several fruit trees on my property but now no longer do. Each fall when the local farmers are pruning their trees and the ground is littered with the prunings. I simply drive by the orchards and ask if I can have a branch or two of this wonderful fruitwood. I have never been turned down. You only need a very small amount each season . I also have a lot of grapevines at my place which makes a very flavorful smoke. the idea of actually paying money for wood to smoke with just goes against the grain to someone as frugal (dirt cheap ) as I. Any fruit wood such as peach, apple, cherry, pear, plum, grape, etc makes excellent smoke. I have been known to occasionally buy hickory though as it does not grow around here. Peach wood is subject to rot which can give it a funky smell why anybody would bother to smoke a peach pit is beyond me. I stack my wood and use it during the second season but I live in the desert where wood dries quickly. your mileage may vary.