Help with a 220v PID controlled smoker.

[heritagemeat]

Hello,
I have built a smoker out of a double door commercial freezer.
I am using an inkbird PID controller operating a 5000 watt element.
I can't figure out why the wires are getting so hot. The thermocouple works and the element shuts down when it gets to temp.
I have 10 gauge running to the element from the relay. There is a fan that blows air across the top of the element. Fan and element purchased from The Sausage Maker for a 100# smoker. Element rates at 20 amps.

 

[Up_In_Smoke]

You can see where an element wire shorted to the frame of the smoker.

Using an ohmmeter, closely check that the element is reading the amount of ohms it's supposed to.
Also that the element isn't contacting the frame anywhere.
Then replace all power wires to be safe.
They're cheaper than a fire.

 

[heritagemeat]

You can see where an element wire shorted to the frame of the smoker.

Using an ohmmeter, closely check that the element is reading the amount of ohms it's supposed to.
Also that the element isn't contacting the frame anywhere.
Then replace all power wires to be safe.
They're cheaper than a fire.

Thank you. The wires got so hot it melted the insulation and it hit the frame.

 

[JC in GB]

Thank you. The wires got so hot it melted the insulation and it hit the frame.

I agree with @Up_In_Smoke. Also, when you rewire it, use high temperature insulation wire. Make sure all connections are very clean or you will get hot spots. I wish you success.

JC in GB

 

[JIMSMOKES]

I wouldn't use those wire nuts for connections. Crimp or even better solder them.

 

[dsk]

Wires to the hot element connection need to be ultra-high temperature wire. This means ceramic, fiberglass, or mica insulated wires. I don't think teflon will be good enough in this case. I'm not really sure how long they need to be, with free air circulation, before you can transition to regular wire. I'd guess at least a foot, 18 inches would be better, but you will need to figure it out. Use only crimp terminals for everything.

 

[JckDanls 07]

Do the wires get hot instantly.. or over time ??

Are using a mechanical relay or an SSR ??

Is the relay/ssr internal or external ??

 

[heritagemeat]

Do the wires get hot instantly.. or over time ??

Are using a mechanical relay or an SSR ??

Is the relay/ssr internal or external ??

Using an inkbird pid with there ssr mounted to a heat sink. I just ordered some high temp 10 gauge wire. I tore the whole thing apart. Going to rewire the whole thing. I was just reading thru other pid posts with wiring schematics. I wired everything as the manufacturer recommended. I am unsure if the wires are getting hot instantly or over time. The ssr shows signs of heat as well. It is external. I have it and the pid mounted in a big plactic electrical box. I attached photos of the element kit I bought.

 

[heritagemeat]

This is the element setup I bought.

 

[Fueling Around]

What size is your chimney?

 

[JckDanls 07]

OK.. I'm not familiar with the Inkbirds... I use Auberns...

Is the heat sink mounted so that it is on the exterior of the box so it dissipates the heat outside of the box ?? Not that that is going to have anything to do with the wires but it does have to do with all the other parts in the box overheating...
I also strongly suggest that you get the high temp spade connectors as well... For both the SSR connections and the heat element connections... You won't need them on the low voltage +/- signal wires coming from the PID to the SSR ( I am assuming that is how the Inkbird works as that's the way the Auberns is. Let me know if it's different)...
Are you running just one line (L1) through the SSR and L2 straight to the element ?? As that's the way it should be wired for 220v ?? ....

 

[heritagemeat]

What size is your chimney?

4 inch

 

[heritagemeat]

OK.. I'm not familiar with the Inkbirds... I use Auberns...

Is the heat sink mounted so that it is on the exterior of the box so it dissipates the heat outside of the box ?? Not that that is going to have anything to do with the wires but it does have to do with all the other parts in the box overheating...
I also strongly suggest that you get the high temp spade connectors as well... For both the SSR connections and the heat element connections... You won't need them on the low voltage +/- signal wires coming from the PID to the SSR ( I am assuming that is how the Inkbird works as that's the way the Auberns is. Let me know if it's different)...
Are you running just one line (L1) through the SSR and L2 straight to the element ?? As that's the way it should be wired for 220v ?? ....

Yes I have it wired to specs. I actually stopped by a commercial appliance repair place today. The guy told me he suspects thar the connections to the element itself might have been bad. He recommended I solder the connections. He told me if the connections are not good it will actually draw more to try making up for the loss. I got hi temp wire fr