First Build- Please Critique my plan

[chain smoker]

smoker 001.jpg

• chain smoker
• Mar 31, 2013

Hi Guys- Here's my plan for my first smoker build. I have a 60 Gal compressor tank, so thats what I'll use. The cooking area seems a little small for all the work, but it should be big enough to learn and perfect my smoking skills. I've looked thru what seems like all the build threads, and checked the calculators. But, I do have a few questions:

  1) Rain Cap, or Stack Damper?

  2) Intake vents above Fire Grate?

  3) Baffle to prevent Hotspot where FB enters CC?

  4) Damper at FB/CC opening?

I'm not sure if these things are important on a small cooker like this, but as long as I'm building, I'll go with your suggestions.

Thanks for any help,

Steve

 

[wtipton]

Greeting Steve,

Looks like wonderful plans. I hope I can answer your question and if I am wrong on anything I am sure the others will correct me.

1) On my smoker I have a Damper and am installing a rain cap. The damper will allow you to control the output of the smoke and in turn help regulate the heat. unless I am misunderstanding I dont think you have to choose between them.

2) I put my air intakes at the same level as my grate and have the grate mounted so it has room under it for the ash to fall

3) I resolved the problem of hot spot on the RF plate at the firebox by installing a 1/4" thick plate as the first section and then 1/16" the rest of the way. this way it resists the heat.

4) I saw no need to install a damper at the FB/CC opening, you can control your air flow and heat by closing the stack damper and the firebox air intakes.

These are things I did on my build and found they worked, hope this helps and if any of the other members disagree I would love to learn more.

William

 

[rasimmo]

1. Personal preference of builder. I like the damper just so you can close it off and see how it acts. I think they mostly get used as a rain cap when not in use and full open while cooking in most cases though.

2. Having intakes under the grate fuel the fire. The ones above move hot air without going directly to the flame. That keeps the firebox temps a little lower while allowing for the correct cook chamber temps. It will let you have better control and use less fuel.

3. Probably not necessary on this size smoker because the length of the cook chamber is shorter. I would put one in if you are planning on building a larger version in the future just to get an idea of the way it all fits together. It can't hurt.

4. I see no need in this unless you have a vertical chamber on top of the firebox that you are planning on using seperately from the horizontal smoker. You can control that airflow with the intakes on the firebox.

 

[sqwib]

Looks like Frank.
Look at my build in my signature
For questions 2 and 3
You will get a hot spot and you will need a baffle or diffuser (look at my build) the problem with tanks that have rounded sides is, some of the firebox is inside the cook chamber.

I went with Intakes under the fire grate I get excellent drafting.

 

[chain smoker]

Officially Started- Thanks for the help, Looks like I'm going with a stack damper like Frankensmoker, it seems to be a popular style. I think I'll also put two 3x2 intake vents near the top of the charcoal basket.

  I'm going to need to figure out how to do the heat defuser, Looks like a baffle in the firebox, extending into the area below the reverse plate. In the plan, I had the reverse plate (top if firebox)  2" above the FB/CC opening. I don't think I want to lose 2" of ceiling height in the firebox. That would leave me only 14" top to bottom, Is that enough? I only need 1" of separation to get the FB/CC opening x 1.5, as recommended. I allowed for 1" Drop at the other end of the RP. I'll incorporate this baffle, but could use a few ideas.

  The FB/CC damper will be decided when I get that far.

  The good news is I actually started today! Ordered up some 1/4" from the shop in town, and got the compressor up on the table for surgery. Took the mounts off, and cut the door opening. Took more time figuring TDC than cutting the door out. I used a skil saw with a metal blade, took less than 10 minutes, tank is .166"

I need to make the firebox opening next, any tricks to get a level line across the end of the tank, I can do it, but I'll futz around with it for awhile.

Thanks

boyz-misc-smoker 046.JPG

• chain smoker
• Apr 1, 2013

boyz-misc-smoker 049.JPG

• chain smoker
• Apr 1, 2013

 

[sqwib]

fire box baffle.JPG

• sqwib
• Apr 2, 2013

I was getting an average of 70 degree difference from left to right.
I tried Fire management and that had no effect.
The top of the firebox is getting hammered with heat and 6" of the firebox is inside the smoke chamber.
There is definitely a lot of convection going on.
Here is how I fixed the problem.

The Green represents the top of the firebox that is inside the smoke chamber, the Blue represents the reverse flow plate and the Red represents the baffle plates installed to reduce the heat from hammering the top of the firebox, causing excessive radiant heat.

My temps are now about  0° -15° variance

 

[JckDanls 07]

Officially Started- Thanks for the help, Looks like I'm going with a stack damper like Frankensmoker, it seems to be a popular style. I think I'll also put two 3x2 intake vents near the top of the charcoal basket.

  I'm going to need to figure out how to do the heat defuser, Looks like a baffle in the firebox, extending into the area below the reverse plate. In the plan, I had the reverse plate (top if firebox)  2" above the FB/CC opening. I don't think I want to lose 2" of ceiling height in the firebox. That would leave me only 14" top to bottom, Is that enough? I only need 1" of separation to get the FB/CC opening x 1.5, as recommended. I allowed for 1" Drop at the other end of the RP. I'll incorporate this baffle, but could use a few ideas.

  The FB/CC damper will be decided when I get that far.

  The good news is I actually started today! Ordered up some 1/4" from the shop in town, and got the compressor up on the table for surgery. Took the mounts off, and cut the door opening. Took more time figuring TDC than cutting the door out. I used a skil saw with a metal blade, took less than 10 minutes, tank is .166"

I need to make the firebox opening next, any tricks to get a level line across the end of the tank, I can do it, but I'll futz around with it for awhile.

Thanks

boyz-misc-smoker 046.JPG

• chain smoker
• Apr 1, 2013

boyz-misc-smoker 049.JPG

• chain smoker
• Apr 1, 2013

If the RF plate is going to be 2" above the opening of the FB then why not just put a 1/4' plate from the top of the FB opening out into the CC about a 1/4 to 1/3 of the way... that would leave a 1 3/4" gap between the difuser and the RF plate ....

 

[chain smoker]

Thanks SQWIB- I think this might work.

baffle 001.jpg

• chain smoker
• Apr 2, 2013

I'll extend the baffle 8" or so. This should work??

 

[chain smoker]

Hey Jck- The top of the FB inside the chamber is at the same height as the reverse plate, I think I should drop the firebox, and just extend the reverse plate above it.

 

[JckDanls 07]

that's fine if it doesn't make your FB to CC hole smaller and then not meet the required size according to calculator really only need about an inch or so between the 2 plates...

 

[chain smoker]

The 2" separation on the firebox end is to allow for a 1" drop on the other end. The recommendations on this site are for 1.5 x FB/CC opening for the area below the RP. Hope I got this thinking right?

Thanks

 

[maple sticks]

 

[ribwizzard]

SQWIB's design will also keep you from burning the paint off of the top of the firebox.

I usually go with something like this and it works well to.

 

[chain smoker]

Thanks Ribwizzard-  Looks like a built-in baffle plate in the firebox is your suggestion. I"m thinking the calculated volumn of the firebox would be below the baffle plate? This is the first time I've heard of any concern about burning the paint off the firebox top. While I was at work today I thought a damper at the FB/CC opening would work well, and act as a baffle to the Reverse Plate. I'm trying to make this build as easy and practical as possible, yet, a high performance smoker.  As far as smoker building goes, I think all of you have made this website  the leading technology in smoker design. You have builds with Up to date, proven results, and "hands on" construction and use. I'll give thought to everyones input, but I guess It's going to be up to me to do what is best for this particular build.

I'm Getting a 4'x5' piece if 1/4" steel tomorrow !!!

Steve

 

[ribwizzard]

Yes, calculate firebox volume below the plate. Also , go tall on the firebox. and go big. Most of my firebox's end up being about  1.30 x what the calculator recommends.  I just like plently of room for that fire to beath and do what it needs to do with out the flames hitting the top.  And, as I've said elsewhere, I believe that the 2nd top plate in the firebox add some kind of insulating factor, becouse they seem to burn less wood. Maybe it just helps direct more heat into the cook chamber instead of letting all of the radiant heat just rise from the top of the firebox, ....I dont know. It just works well for me.

Anyway, whatever I can do to help,  have fun building that thing and dont rush it.