Carpenter Bee Traps (UPGRADED)
Some of you saw my original "Carpenter Bee Trap" post.
I mentioned in that thread that the only problem I had found was that wasps build nests in the top section of those old traps.
Here is a link to that thread. That thread also has a lot more explanation about Carpenter Bees.
You can go to that thread through this link:
http://www.smokingmeatforums.com/t/106345/carpenter-bee-traps-work-great-update-june-15-2011
I mentioned in that thread that I was going to make the roof removable so I could clean the wasp nests out during the off-season.
We did some experimenting, and found that if you use a solid piece of wood, instead of a "birdhouse" type trap, that the wasps won't have a place to build their nests inside.
This upgraded Carpenter Bee Trap uses that idea.
I could have used Pressure treated wood, but I opted to use Cedar, because the color matched my Log House much better.
The only drawback is the expense. I paid $41 for an 8' long 4 X 4.
Not really that bad, because I got 18 traps out of that one 8' long piece.
My pictures & captions explain most of the building of the traps, but I'd be glad to answer any questions anyone has.
I hope this will help at least a few of you to get rid of your Carpenter Bees from your houses & buildings.
Thanks for looking,
Bear
Cedar 4" X 4" X 8'----marking for cutting:
Cut into 9 blocks (Note my waste on top of the stack):
Cut blocks in half at 30˚ for roof:
Drill bottom holes for bottle caps, to the depth of the bottle caps, with Forstner Bit:
Ready equal parts of "PC-7" epoxy (good stuff):
Epoxy all mixed up:
Scrape epoxy all the way around entrance of holes:
Shove bottle caps all the way to bottom of holes:
I did this to all 18 future traps:
Then I drilled a 1" hole through caps to a depth of 3" from bottom of the traps:
After drilling 1/2" holes on both sides & front to meet the 1" bottom hole at 3", I mounted double screw hangers:
18 Bee Traps being inspected:
Finished Upgraded Carpenter Bee Trap close-up.
Also drill a small hole in the bottom of the bottles so rainwater doesn't accumulate:
These traps are not as ugly on my house as the original traps were:
This is one of the old ones, ready to be replaced.
They were just plain old rough cut skid pine (FREE WOOD):
__________________
Some of you saw my original "Carpenter Bee Trap" post.
I mentioned in that thread that the only problem I had found was that wasps build nests in the top section of those old traps.
Here is a link to that thread. That thread also has a lot more explanation about Carpenter Bees.
You can go to that thread through this link:
http://www.smokingmeatforums.com/t/106345/carpenter-bee-traps-work-great-update-june-15-2011
I mentioned in that thread that I was going to make the roof removable so I could clean the wasp nests out during the off-season.
We did some experimenting, and found that if you use a solid piece of wood, instead of a "birdhouse" type trap, that the wasps won't have a place to build their nests inside.
This upgraded Carpenter Bee Trap uses that idea.
I could have used Pressure treated wood, but I opted to use Cedar, because the color matched my Log House much better.
The only drawback is the expense. I paid $41 for an 8' long 4 X 4.
Not really that bad, because I got 18 traps out of that one 8' long piece.
My pictures & captions explain most of the building of the traps, but I'd be glad to answer any questions anyone has.
I hope this will help at least a few of you to get rid of your Carpenter Bees from your houses & buildings.
Thanks for looking,
Bear
Cedar 4" X 4" X 8'----marking for cutting:
Cut into 9 blocks (Note my waste on top of the stack):
Cut blocks in half at 30˚ for roof:
Drill bottom holes for bottle caps, to the depth of the bottle caps, with Forstner Bit:
Ready equal parts of "PC-7" epoxy (good stuff):
Epoxy all mixed up:
Scrape epoxy all the way around entrance of holes:
Shove bottle caps all the way to bottom of holes:
I did this to all 18 future traps:
Then I drilled a 1" hole through caps to a depth of 3" from bottom of the traps:
After drilling 1/2" holes on both sides & front to meet the 1" bottom hole at 3", I mounted double screw hangers:
18 Bee Traps being inspected:
Finished Upgraded Carpenter Bee Trap close-up.
Also drill a small hole in the bottom of the bottles so rainwater doesn't accumulate:
These traps are not as ugly on my house as the original traps were:
This is one of the old ones, ready to be replaced.
They were just plain old rough cut skid pine (FREE WOOD):
__________________
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