Adding an element to my 18” WSM to make it work via electricity

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lght

Meat Mopper
Original poster
May 26, 2008
255
14
Sunny Southern California
Well I was smoking ribs yesterday and a crazy old lady didn't understand people cook that way (I live in a yuppie area of OC) so she called the fire department and reported a fire.  They came out noticed the smoker and smelled the food and laughed, but because it was a false alarm had to report it to my community association.  Well of course they have a rule that says no charcoal grills or smokers are allowed. 

I'm trying to find a way to convert my WSM to work with electricity when at home and charcoal when not at home.  I found a site that shows a guy who did it by just making a little 2" cut on the bottom of his WSM, but the electric elements he used are only 1500 watts and the reviews on them are pretty bad.  Apparently they are not powerful enough to get past 200 and worse when the weather is cold.

Does anyone know of a place that makes and sells round electrical elements with an adjustable thermostat that's 18.5 inches or less?  I was considering getting 2 sets, but would prefer getting 1 3000 watt element if possible. 
 
Check Cabelas, they have a round element for a Brinkman that might work.

http://www.cabelas.com/product/Smok...tric+element&WTz_l=Header;Search-All+Products
I already checked them before posting.  What they sell is perfect except that the power is too low.  The problem is the one they sell goes "up to" 220 which means max it would probably get on a good day is 200 and that's not hot enough.

http://www.cabelas.com/product/734414.uts?WT.tsrc=CRR&WT.mc_id=crrdtfd
 
It's easy to do, I had a family member's 18.5 set up to work that way.

http://www.alliedkenco.com/301.aspx

http://www.alliedkenco.com/87.aspx

You may want to consider a welding blanket rather than the high wattage.

~Martin
Do you recall what parts you got?

Seems like the biggest 110v they have is only 1650 watts, but it's still better than the highest one i've been able to find so far. 

http://www.alliedkenco.com/element-1650w-120v.aspx

Also how do you control the temps that thing?  Do I need a another part? 
 
This might be a stupid question but wouldn't you still be breaking the same "no smoker" rule with electric?   Some associations can play semantics. 
 
The parts have changed a bit since I did it.
Parts were basically, the element, mount, high temp wire, electric cord and controller.
Basically, you run high temp wire out to a cord then to the controller and power source.
A-K was very helpful with our project.

There are several ways to control the temps.
The controller can be as simple as a rheostat.
I think that SausageMaker sells a rheostat for about $8, but I'm not sure of the amp rating.
A-K has the fancier rheostats for $50


~Martin
 
Last edited:
This might be a stupid question but wouldn't you still be breaking the same "no smoker" rule with electric?   Some associations can play semantics. 
Actually the rule is no charcoal or open flame grills / smokers.  As long as it doesn't use coals or wood it's fine. 
 
The parts have changed a bit since I did it.
Parts were basically, the element, mount, high temp wire, electric cord and controller.
Basically, you run high temp wire out to a cord then to the controller and power source.
A-K was very helpful with our project.

There are several ways to control the temps.
The controller can be as simple as a rheostat.
I think that SausageMaker sells a rheostat for about $8, but I'm not sure of the amp rating.
A-K has the fancier rheostats for $50


~Martin
Well I wasn't sure so I just called them and the biggest one they make for 110 is a 1650 watt unit.  Not much better than the 1500 watt on that cabala's sells.  He said it would be fine with a WSM based on size, but it wouldn't get that hot and if you throw in a water pan full of water AND the extra stacker insert I use from time to time it wouldn't work.  I did ask him if I could setup 2 and he said sure as long as they don't touch so I may just get 2 of the cheaper cabala ones that's a full kit for $50 and just do that.
 
Actually the cabalas one doesn't have thermostat control so I'm looking at the brinkmann 812-3323 that does.  They have them on amazon for $40 and has received great reviews.  I think i'm gonna get one setup it up really low over a bed of those lava rocks and see how hot it will get with 2 pork butts in it and how well it will maintain heat.  If it does "ok" then I will just add another one a few inches above it.

 
I'm new to this forum and know very little about smoking foods right now but I know quit a bit about the cooking and electric industry.

I work for a commercial food equipment company and I have also built my own electric home brewery and everything is quite the same.

I can tell you right now your going to run into a problem. You will not find a big enough 115 volt heating element to satisfy you requirements, unless it never gets cold or windy.

Amps x Volts = Watts... using a standard household 115v circuit that is normally 15 amp breaker and with standard rule being not to exceed 80% breaker capacity for extended period 1380 watts.

Keep in mind the 80% is just a rule of thumb. The max output if a circuit is running exactly 115 volts is 1725 watts. That is pushing the heck out of it though since that would be right dead on 15 amps... probably tripping the breaker. 

The only other option you have is to insulate the heck out of that thing and wattage requirements become much less since the unit requires less work to be done.

When you buy a place make sure you have a couple 20 amp breakers and better yet some 50's run to outlets in 1 or 2 places. You'll come back and thank me later.
 
Doing a rough calculation for heating a 3.9 cu ft cylinder, to raise the temp from 50º F to 275º would require approx 2578 BTU/hour or 755 watt, that is no internal load (cold meat), just heating air.  There for a 1200-1300 watt element should do the job.  If outdoor ambient drops lower than 50º add a insulation blanket.

If you are having serious trouble achieving the desired cooking temp with a full load of meat, buy a 2nd element with rheostat controller run it off a long extension cord that is on a different electrical circuit.

A PID controller would be nice, much better than a rheostat, on a primary heating element.

You are essentially converting your WSM to an electric Brinkman non insulated smoker.
 
I'm new to this forum and know very little about smoking foods right now but I know quit a bit about the cooking and electric industry.

I work for a commercial food equipment company and I have also built my own electric home brewery and everything is quite the same.

I can tell you right now your going to run into a problem. You will not find a big enough 115 volt heating element to satisfy you requirements, unless it never gets cold or windy.

Amps x Volts = Watts... using a standard household 115v circuit that is normally 15 amp breaker and with standard rule being not to exceed 80% breaker capacity for extended period 1380 watts.

Keep in mind the 80% is just a rule of thumb. The max output if a circuit is running exactly 115 volts is 1725 watts. That is pushing the heck out of it though since that would be right dead on 15 amps... probably tripping the breaker. 

The only other option you have is to insulate the heck out of that thing and wattage requirements become much less since the unit requires less work to be done.

When you buy a place make sure you have a couple 20 amp breakers and better yet some 50's run to outlets in 1 or 2 places. You'll come back and thank me later.
Thanks for the info when I called the place digging dog posted they said just that.  That's why the maximum size heating element they make for 110 was 1500 watts.  I already own the place, but it's in a gated community so hence the HOA and rules.  Silly rules. 
 
Doing a rough calculation for heating a 3.9 cu ft cylinder, to raise the temp from 50º F to 275º would require approx 2578 BTU/hour or 755 watt, that is no internal load (cold meat), just heating air.  There for a 1200-1300 watt element should do the job.  If outdoor ambient drops lower than 50º add a insulation blanket.

If you are having serious trouble achieving the desired cooking temp with a full load of meat, buy a 2nd element with rheostat controller run it off a long extension cord that is on a different electrical circuit.

A PID controller would be nice, much better than a rheostat, on a primary heating element.

You are essentially converting your WSM to an electric Brinkman non insulated smoker.
In theory your right, but you need to consider that water pan that will have 2-4 gallons of water plus the 20+ pounds of meat in addition to my Pro Q stacker grill surface that adds another 18" grilling surface and another 10+ lbs of meat.  All that considered your calculations are about half of what I would need.  That's why I considering 2 of the 1500 watt setups. 
 
In theory your right, but you need to consider that water pan that will have 2-4 gallons of water plus the 20+ pounds of meat in addition to my Pro Q stacker grill surface that adds another 18" grilling surface and another 10+ lbs of meat.  All that considered your calculations are about half of what I would need.  That's why I considering 2 of the 1500 watt setups. 

You didn't mention all that previously, that makes a BIG difference.
It may be wise to move to an insulated smoker, you're losing the benefit of charcoal anyway.


~Martin
 
I would go with the 1500 watt Brinkman unit and add a PID controller with SSR to switch the element on and off.  I would go with one of Todd's pellet trays for the smoke source.

Instead of using the water pan, I would put in the flower pot base.  Clay pot base would give you some heat loss moderation when you open the unit to turn meat, check temps, spritz with juice, etc...  Once it's at temp (it may add a little time to your warm up period to get it there), it will take less energy to keep the pot base hot than it would to keep the water and it should warm up to temp faster than water.  I'm not sure what the size of the Brinkmann element is.  Need to make sure it would fit and not ride too high in the WSM bottom bowl (or block the air flow totally).  You could probably close all but one bottom vent and even tape over two of the 3 holes in that one.  Just need a little air for the pellet tray.

You could make the whole setup easily removable so you could use the WSM as a charcoal smoker when you need it.

Hmmmmm..... I have a spare PID sitting around.  I may make one of these for my WSM.
 
In theory your right, but you need to consider that water pan that will have 2-4 gallons of water plus the 20+ pounds of meat in addition to my Pro Q stacker grill surface that adds another 18" grilling surface and another 10+ lbs of meat.  All that considered your calculations are about half of what I would need.  That's why I considering 2 of the 1500 watt setups. 
The water can be preheated to boiling temp on the stove, so that is a NON issue.  Be honest how many times will you smoke 3 pork shoulders or more than 3 racks of ribs?  Even if you are smoking 20+ pounds your cook time is simply longer, you will be surprised that it will not be that much longer.  The heat calc I used was to raise the temp from 50 to 275 deg, you will be smoking at 225 deg, so there is room there.  Dude there are electric smokers out there with similar cubic inches that only have a 600 watt element, yes they are insulated with 1/2" insulation and dual walled, but you can do the same with an insulating blanket.  3000 watts is over kill, and not even remotely necessary.  I did explain how to use a 2nd circuit if you deem necessary.
 
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