Looking good getting closer !!
I just got the plates fitted and tacked in. After looking at it,,,, that's a lot of welding. I used a mig to tack these in but Im gonna finish up with a stick. Question though,,, I know the center of the plates need to be welded, but can I just run a few 3" welds along the "tops"??
Also, If you can see where the "X's" are, that area sticks up about 1/16" higher than the door (when shut). If I was to run a few beads of weld directly on the underside of them, might that pull them down or push the up further? And I know this sounds stupid but the thought has crossed my mind to mount it on this (truck bed trailer frame I redone).
Through the door?????? LOL... Im not sure I understand what you mean. If your thinkin the wheel will be in the way, the pics kinda distorts the real deal. theres "OK" room there to get to the CC. I still need to at least tack everything together as it stands to get an idea of tongue weight.. I may need to scoot the whole thing some inches further to get the weight distributed right,,, but if I do need to scoot stuff forward more that will make my "OK" just a little better.
sphumbard,, I think I see what your saying. I took this pic from a different angle, theres quiet a bit of room there, little tight but not too bad.
Also, anybody know what happens if I take the bolts in the center off? Im thinking Ill be able to slide a axle out or something???????? With the original rear end on this chevy frame , Im thinking that the gears in the stump are putting resistance on the tow.
Sorry for the dark pics. It was dark.
MrSpooky, if you take the center bolts out, it will release the axle from the hub. you could then cut the axle off at the "cap" and bolt it back on. Make sure you seal it back up with RTV or a gasket of some kind. You would need to do this to both sides. You will then have a center section that isn't spinning anymore. Make sure you don't loose any oil out from the center. That's what lubricates the outer bearings. You may want to check the level of oil in the center and add some if it needs it. There should be a plug on the center section somewhere. Pull the plug and check the oil with the axle level front to back and side to side. Needs to be to the bottom of the hole (oil). You can stick your finger in the hole to feel where the oil level is. If you need to add some, fill it until it just starts to run back out the hole. Should be 75/90 weight oil, or close to it.
Thanks SmokeyD. Was my thinking right about having resistance during tow? If it is then Im gonna be doing as you suggested, but if the gears don't give resistance I'll just leave it be. Oh, and is the axles solid? how thick? are they somethingthat can be cut with a sawzaw?
You're welcome MrSpooky. Yes they will actually have quite a bit of resistance during tow. The axles are solid. Probably about an inch across. A sawzall shouldn't have any problem cutting through them. They are hardened, so it may take a blade for each one. Just take your time trying to cut them and you shouldn't have too much trouble. Maybe even shoot some WD 40 (or used motor oil or something along those lines) on the blade every once in a while to help keep it cool.
Here are a few pictures of how I did my door latch. Harbor Freight chipping hammer head cut off, shaft bent @ 90 degree,
3/16" stock & some 5/16" bolts as pins. The pin through the slot is attached to the door, as the main pivot. The latch
engages a slot cut in the door frame. The latch and slot are angled to tighten the door the further the handle is pushed.