Suggestions on door sizes

[MrTimV]

Just starting work on a build using a 185 gallon cylinder oil tank.
30x60 roughly, made out of 12 gauge steel.

Just wondering how big to make the door, or would it be better off to do two smaller doors?
Beginner welder, so I don't want to do anything to warp the door panel and I gather one big door has a higher chance of this happening. I do have a friend that's a professional fabricator though so might be able to get him to give me a quick hand.

But trying to do this mainly on my own, so what would some of you with more experience building suggest?

 

[Big Bad Wolf]

Just starting work on a build using a 185 gallon cylinder oil tank.
30x60 roughly, made out of 12 gauge steel.

Just wondering how big to make the door, or would it be better off to do two smaller doors?
Beginner welder, so I don't want to do anything to warp the door panel and I gather one big door has a higher chance of this happening. I do have a friend that's a professional fabricator though so might be able to get him to give me a quick hand.

But trying to do this mainly on my own, so what would some of you with more experience building suggest?

Either way would work. I built mine which is a 36 x 60 inch tank with only one door and it works great. Less places for air leaks with only one door and only need hinges and whatever counterbalance use just for one door. Take a look at the pictures I posted of mine and it make give you an idea you could use on your build.

 

[MrTimV]

Much appreciated and your build looks really good!

 

[seattlepitboss]

I vote for two doors simply because opening a smaller door lets out less heat. If the tank has a thick wall, a big door can be very heavy (that's why guys build in counterweights).

seattlepitboss

 

[Big Bad Wolf]

Much appreciated and your build looks really good!

Thanks, just let me know if I can give you a few pointers. I decided to go reverse flow cooker from the beginning and glad I did. I went by Dave's formulas for sizes, openings, etc. and it works great. Only made just a few small changes since building.

 

[Big Bad Wolf]

Just starting work on a build using a 185 gallon cylinder oil tank.
30x60 roughly, made out of 12 gauge steel.

Just wondering how big to make the door, or would it be better off to do two smaller doors?
Beginner welder, so I don't want to do anything to warp the door panel and I gather one big door has a higher chance of this happening. I do have a friend that's a professional fabricator though so might be able to get him to give me a quick hand.

But trying to do this mainly on my own, so what would some of you with more experience building suggest?

How many cooking racks are you going to have? Will they be welded in place or be able to slide out? On a 30" dia. cooker you probably would not need slid out trays. I went with a single door because both my cooking racks slide out for loading, unloading, etc. and my reverse flow cooker is 36" dia x 60 " lg. We have cooked 24 Boston Butts with no problem. You could go with 2 doors if the racks don't slide. I would base my decision on the type of racks in use and if I were to ever need to remove the racks for repair, cleaning, etc. Will yours be a conventional cooker or reverse flow?

 

[MrTimV]

Reverse flow
High and low, so just the two as I feel like anything more would become cramped.
Sliding to be able to clean or for any maintenance and just flexibility really.

So essentially very similar to what you built, just slightly less in diameter... and I'll have to raise it up a bit higher on my trailer because what I have is 8ft long with the axel in the center, but that's a different problem.

I'd like to be able to do whole pig (small ones) sometimes, so I'm leaning towards one door, or some kind of split door for the times I only need smaller access.

 

[bill1]

Sedans are stronger than coupes. You want the center column between the front and rear "windows" to add strength and discourage warpage. So go with two doors, unless you're trying to move whole animals in and out. Keep the section of steel between the door openings at least 10x wider than its thickness to get the full "sedan" advantage.

Good point as well that with smaller cooks, you may not need to open both doors, so having "half-doors" keeps the heat in better.

 

[Big Bad Wolf]

Reverse flow
High and low, so just the two as I feel like anything more would become cramped.
Sliding to be able to clean or for any maintenance and just flexibility really.

So essentially very similar to what you built, just slightly less in diameter... and I'll have to raise it up a bit higher on my trailer because what I have is 8ft long with the axel in the center, but that's a different problem.

I'd like to be able to do whole pig (small ones) sometimes, so I'm leaning towards one door, or some kind of split door for the times I only need smaller access.

Like I said, you can go either way with your doors. I like the idea of being able to use both racks or remove the top rack for larger pieces of meat. If you look closely at my cooker you will see a strip of 1/8" thk metal all around the door edge. Don't remember the width but 1/2 of the width is welded to the actual door and the other 1/2 overlaps on the cooker. Ithis is a good area to put self material to seal for any leaks. Your drum metal seems to be the same thickness as mine. It will give some when you cut the door(s) opening(s) due to stress. You can take a straightedge and several blocks of wood and make it match your cooker profile. I have sealing tape on both my door and cooking chamber. Going to use it tomorrow for some Boston Butts. I'll try to post a few pictures.

 

[MrTimV]

In the end, opted for two doors. Less heat escaping and the majority of the times I use this will be for smaller things like shoulders and ribs.
Each door will be 24" wide with a 3.5" space/support between them.
I'll try to get pictures sometime.

 

[Big Bad Wolf]

In the end, opted for two doors. Less heat escaping and the majority of the times I use this will be for smaller things like shoulders and ribs.
Each door will be 24" wide with a 3.5" space/support between them.
I'll try to get pictures sometime.

Sounds like a good plan. Did you mention if this would be a conventional offset smoker or a reverse flow smoker? Love to see those pictures as you're building.

 

[tbern]

Yes, post up pictures and info as you do your build of your smoker! Always interesting to see one coming together!

 

[Big Bad Wolf]

Sounds like a good plan. Did you mention if this would be a conventional offset smoker or a reverse flow smoker? Love to see those pictures as you're building.

Sorry, I missed that you had mentioned it being a reverse flow.

 

[MrTimV]

I've noticed my build falls into the short/fat category, as if I the calculators I need more area under the baffle plate then actually exists in the entire smoker, so I believe I've adjusted all of that well enough, and my area opening to the CC is about equal to the area under the baffle and what the opening at the end will be.
At any rate, would it still be advisable to make the baffle 3/16 or 1/4in steel? I was thinking 3/16 because the distance it has to travel is relatively short by comparison to some, but not sure if that's flawed logic.

Second question, does anybody ever make the baffle out a few pieces? just seems like this would be easier to manage for getting it in place?

Lastly (might as well get them all out now) I was thinking I'd control this thing with something like a Fireboard Drive and billows fan, would it still be advisable to put the upper vent in though to allow for greater air flow?

 

[MrTimV]

Well, figured I'd post a few build pictures so far. It's coming along really nicely. Just a couple more steps then I'm going to burn out the CC the first time.