Older Scope mount help!

[Rafter H BBQ]

Hey all, just going to say prior to my question… I am not sure at times if I am acting like my usual self due to a car accident I was involved in last Wed night. So, my apologies if I am not myself. The effects are really starting to set in.

Have a 308 that my son inherited from his late Grandpa on my wife’s side. Very nice one.

It had an older scope on it and I think maybe LocTite or something similar was used on the scope mount screws. They are not budging… not rusted or anything… just not turning at all.

Anyone maybe have a suggestion for a method on getting these removed?

Thanks for any advice.

 

[BigW.]

No help but sorry to hear of the accident. Hope you're back to 100% soon. May try using something to get a bit more leverage on the allen wrench.

 

[Rafter H BBQ]

No help but sorry to hear of the accident. Hope you're back to 100% soon. May try using something to get a bit more leverage on the allen wrench.

Thank you!

The issue I have is it’s an older one and the screw are a small flathead. I am afraid of stripping them out.

 

[02ebz06]

Easy outs, but I don't know how small they go.

 

[Up_In_Smoke]

I would try using a small soldering iron tip that is flat on the bottom and is no larger than the head of the screws. Gently heat them several times, letting them cool down in between heating.

The idea is to weaken the Loctite with the thermal expansion / contraction.

Make sure you use a screwdriver that fits the screws very tightly.

Best of luck!!

 

[SmokinEdge]

Sorry to hear about your accident Justin. I’m hoping you pull through ok.

As to the screws, years ago I decided to buy a decent set of smithing screw bits that actually fit the screw slot both width and thickness. Game changer on tight scope or action screws. No more stripping those slot heads. From Brownell’s.

 

[JLinza]

I've used penetrating oil on mount screws before. But know if you do, you should thoroughly clean any parts you intend to re-use, they can loosen over time if there is any left over. I'd use oil as a last ditch effort.
Sorry to here about your accident, Justin. Hope you get better soon.

 

[chopsaw]

Try to tighten them up , or turn / put pressure in that direction before trying to back them out .
A lot of times that will break the screw loose in general .

 

[cptnding]

We have this problem fairly often at the shop.
The first thing I try is what chop mentioned. Try tightening then removing. The next step is penetrating oil over night. If that doesn't work I'll try heating and cooling a few cycles with a small torch. Go very easy with the torch and keep it at a distance. Never though about using a soldering iron on the screw head. That's a good idea that I may try in the future!
At that point if nothing works you're going to have to replace the mounts. I'll use brute force to try and break the screw head off. If it strips instead I'll drill them out.
Fortunately scope mounts are not terribly expensive unless it's an unusual rifle with proprietary mounts. Good luck!

 

[DougE]

An impact driver may work if you can secure the rifle in a fixed position while whacking it with a hammer.

 

[whistlepig]

If it's Loctite a little heat will break it down. It doesn't take much.

 

[Fueling Around]

Sorry to read of accident. I've been in a few and they are tough on the body and mind.

Define "older" from your perspective. I have a 308 Remington with a scope mounted back in the 70's. The screws are hex head.
Not sure when Loc Tite thread sealer got common with the smiths. Probably much earlier than the home novice.
I remember the smiths using liquid bluing to anchor threads. If that is your project the threads are glued.

Up Up_In_Smoke has the better suggestion to heat the screw directly. I would add to to do the heat and cool cycle twice. Also if you can get to the bottom side of the mount to the threads do the heat and cool.
Them we need Eric's SmokinEdge tool set and Doug's DougE impact driver.

No go at this point? Drill out the screws

 

[whistlepig]

Loctite was fairly common in the 60's.

If you don't want to damage your bits or screwdrivers with heat a heated nail works just fine.

 

[forktender]

Depend on which Loctight they used.
If they used blue L.T. a little heat will work. If they used red L.T. you're gonna need to get the metal damn near cherry hot before it breaks loose.
Don't let the metal cool, get the screw moving while the metal is nice and hot.

I hate red L.T., I work on a lot of guns, and not once in my life did I need red L.T.
It's way overkill for guns, and most other things . When you put the new rings on, use a toothpick and add the smallest dab of blue L.T. to the screw threads, that is all that is needed.

Sorry to hear about your injuries, keep at it, you'll be back to normal before you know it.

Dan.

 

[1MoreFord]

.................................................. If they used red L.T. you're gonna need to get the metal damn near cherry hot before it breaks loose.
.....................................................

Not true.
Back when I shot IPSC I loosened up several compensators that were held in place by threads and a set screw with Red Loctite on them simply by shooting too much too fast while practicing Steel Challenge match stages. Then we went to Hi-Temp Green Loctite and the same thing happened. Had to resort to some special epoxy to keep 'em on.
I know Loctite says it takes 500°F to loosen it but I never got my pistols that hot.

 

[forktender]

Not true.
Back when I shot IPSC I loosened up several compensators that were held in place by threads and a set screw with Red Loctite on them simply by shooting too much too fast while practicing Steel Challenge match stages. Then we went to Hi-Temp Green Loctite and the same thing happened. Had to resort to some special epoxy to keep 'em on.
I know Loctite says it takes 500°F to loosen it but I never got my pistols that hot.

We'll have to disagree, on this one.

It is the vibration from shoot'in multiple rds that loosens anything threaded.
I've tested red L.T. it holds threaded parts firm, as long as it was applied to clean threads. If you're looking for a product that won't come loose unless you want it to, look no further than X-pando I used it for many yrs on high pressure steam lines, that had tons of vibration, mainly refinery, and on ship engines, and engine rooms. It will also seal torn, and buggered up threads, the stuff is amazing. It looks like graphite, you mix in a little H2o and paint it onto the threads. Once it's dry, it's not coming off or leaking unless you want it to even then it's a bitch to break the threads free, you have to apply heat and impact to get it to budge.

 

[clifish]

We'll have to disagree, on this one.

It is the vibration from shoot multiple rds that loosens anything threaded.
I've tested red L.T. it holds threaded parts firm, as long as it was applied to clean threads. If you're looking for a product that won't come loose unless you want it to, look no further than X-pando I used it for many yrs on high pressure steam lines, that had tons of vibration, mainly refinery, and on ship engines, and engine rooms. It will also seal torn, and buggered up threads, the stuff is amazing. It looks like graphite, you mix in a little H2o and paint it onto the threads. Once it's dry, it's not coming off or leaking unless you want it to even then it's a bitch to break the threads free, you have to apply heat and impact to get it to budge.
View attachment 723452

Yep, I agree. on 97-2006 Jeep Wranglers (TJ's) they used red LT on the door hing bolts. Only way they are coming is a screaming hot torx bit in the bolt and more heat applied to the bit.

 

[cptnding]

Depend on which Loctight they used.
If they used blue L.T. a little heat will work. If they used red L.T. you're gonna need to get the metal damn near cherry hot before it breaks loose.
Don't let the metal cool, get the screw moving while the metal is nice and hot.

I hate red L.T., I work on a lot of guns, and not once in my life did I need red L.T.
It's way overkill for guns, and most other things . When you put the new rings on, use a toothpick and add the smallest dab of blue L.T. to the screw threads, that is all that is needed.

Sorry to hear about your injuries, keep at it, you'll be back to normal before you know it.

Dan.

Try Rocksett. Its commonly used for muzzle brakes, flash suppressors, and silencer mounts. Never heard of it coming loose even on machine guns.

 

[chopsaw]

Yup . When I was working as a Mechanic red was used on things that you didn't expect to take off again . Like said , it's the vibration more than a heat thing .

 

[JckDanls 07]

I'm wondering if a heat gun will get the area hot enough if left on for a while...