Masterbuilt smoker running to hot - HELP PLEASE

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Flyphishcruiser

Newbie
Original poster
Feb 20, 2018
5
0
Hey guys, I have dual door propane Masterbuilt Smoker. All of a sudden it has started running to dang hot. I cant keep temps below 330-350. (heat turned all the way down) water pan is full - i have fooled with the vents - i have "reset" the regulator - i have run it with the propane tank knob turned barley on - can yall help a smoker out?
I peered around the forums and saw suggestions to use a needle valve but arent those for High pressure use like turkey fryers?
help me out guys!
 
I have a Masterbuilt 2 door single burner propane rig .
I was having trouble holding low temps (below 250) and high temps were always unstable.
I added a 20lb needle valve regulator and that solved both problems. If you go down this route just be aware that when using a needle valve you barely turn the knob and the flame reacts.
You will probably get other replies around that same solution.
I got my regulator off Amazon and I know others will chime in on their preferences as well.
Good luck!

r2
 
Yes, install a needle valve. Most all LP gas smokers are low pressure. By that I mean 11" WTC; which is less than 4psi, is the pressure used. A needle valve will allow a fine control over the gas flow. 1/2~ 1 turn will go from 1/8" low blue flame to full blast.
 
My bad, you are correct. I need new glasses and missed the decimal point by a factor of ten. Thanks for the correction my friend.

Wiki:
"One inch of water equals 0.036127291827 pounds per square inch."
 
24zs2f.jpg
 
I have a Masterbuilt 2 door single burner propane rig .
I was having trouble holding low temps (below 250) and high temps were always unstable.
I added a 20lb needle valve regulator and that solved both problems. If you go down this route just be aware that when using a needle valve you barely turn the knob and the flame reacts.
You will probably get other replies around that same solution.
I got my regulator off Amazon and I know others will chime in on their preferences as well.
Good luck!

r2
can you link which one you ordered. I saw a thread where there was some going back and fourth about an adjustable regulator vs the needle valve. If I go that route i want to be sure i get the right one.
 
After you install a needle valve, and maybe an adjustable pressure regulator, to lower the pressure, modify the burner so you don't get a flame out and blow krap up.. I don't remember which members made these mods... Maybe they will see them and comment on their results...
Burner BTU reductiion.JPG .. Burner BTU reductiion2.JPG .. Burner BTU reductiion3.JPG ..
 
After you install a needle valve, and maybe an adjustable pressure regulator, to lower the pressure, modify the burner so you don't get a flame out and blow krap up.. I don't remember which members made these mods... Maybe they will see them and comment on their results...
View attachment 354728 ..View attachment 354729 ..View attachment 354730 ..
NOW THIS LOOKS INTERESTING FOR SURE. Does anyone have a link to a "built" replacement hose with a regulator and needle valve. Or a link to how to "build" a needle valve into an existing regulator hose?
 
I do not recommend using a high pressure regulator for a low pressure burner. You would need to have the correct orifice installed or the flow of gas will be to strong and will burn yellow. You will get much finer control with a low pressure regulator and a needle valve. Low pressure LP gas is 11" of water column. It is roughly 0.39 psi. 11" WTC through a needle valve will give you ultra fine control over the flame.
 
Not sure what the issue is but I have had no issues with my regulator.
I get a good clean flame no yellow.

Some folks use a Bayou classic regulator that seems to be the common one.

r2
 
Here’s the hose I picked up. I swapped out the orfice as well. Seems to be working ok.
I ran the smoker yesterday for about an hour (empty) and it held temps between 225 250 which is where I’m looking to be. you guys think this will work?
 

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