Electric smoker build

[Todd S]

I picked up a old commercial electric oven with inside measurements 26x26x65”. I would like to put a 240 volt oven element and have a PID Controller that has a SSR Output, temp input for both space temp and internal meat temp and be able to program it to change temperatures after so long or by meat temp. What do I need for a controller? What watt heating element should I use? Any suggestions would be great. I have a 240 volt out let very close to be where I will be smoking. I tried a hot plate in side and the temp only got to 212 degrees after about 2 hours.

 

[Steve H]

What is the current voltage and current? That is a big oven. And. Where are you located?

 

[Jonok]

If you put a weatherproof box on the back, put a two pole contactor inside, run a 4 wire 240v cord/plug (you need a neutral and ground as well as the two hots) you can use one leg as 120 to wire a weatherproof outlet attached to the side of the box (to power the PID, run a seperate cord out of the box through a gland (or 2 cords if you have a PID with a seperate smoke generator control) terminated in a male 120v plug to control the contactor out of the box, you can run whatever PID you want, and be able to take it back inside at the end of the day so it doesn’t get rained on.

 

[DIYerDave]

Todd, if you search "home-built electric smoker" on here, you can look at my smoker build. It might help you out. I used an Auber instruments SMD 200A PID controller and a 2000 watt element.

 

[Todd S]

What is the current voltage and current? That is a big oven. And. Where are you located?

I

If you put a weatherproof box on the back, put a two pole contactor inside, run a 4 wire 240v cord/plug (you need a neutral and ground as well as the two hots) you can use one leg as 120 to wire a weatherproof outlet attached to the side of the box (to power the PID, run a seperate cord out of the box through a gland (or 2 cords if you have a PID with a seperate smoke generator control) terminated in a male 120v plug to control the contactor out of the box, you can run whatever PID you want, and be able to take it back inside at the end of the day so it doesn’t get rained on.

What is the current voltage and current? That is a big oven. And. Where are you located?

240 colt

If you put a weatherproof box on the back, put a two pole contactor inside, run a 4 wire 240v cord/plug (you need a neutral and ground as well as the two hots) you can use one leg as 120 to wire a weatherproof outlet attached to the side of the box (to power the PID, run a seperate cord out of the box through a gland (or 2 cords if you have a PID with a seperate smoke generator control) terminated in a male 120v plug to control the contactor out of the box, you can run whatever PID you want, and be able to take it back inside at the end of the day so it doesn’t get rained on.

I already have the smoke figured out

 

[Jonok]

Wasn’t talking about smoke...

 

[Todd S]

Why do I need a two post contractor?

 

[Todd S]

Sounds good. But I am looking for a model number to a PID that has a ramp or be able two program to go to different temps at different times or from the temp of the meat

Todd, if you search "home-built electric smoker" on here, you can look at my smoker build. It might help you out. I used an Auber instruments SMD 200A PID controller and a 2000 watt element.

thanks

 

[Jonok]

If you use a two pole contactor, you can turn your element on and off with 120v and not have to run all of the juice through the controller. Furthermore, you can have 1 240v plug that connects to a weatherproof box on your smoker that has an attached weatherproof outlet (to plug in your PID) and a cord or two coming out that connect to the PID via male plugs. That way, you can use something like an Auber 1500h instead of having to permanently attach a bigger controller. Of course, YMMV...

 

[DIYerDave]

Todd, the model number I gave you can do that. It has ramp and soak. You can program up to 6 steps into each program. Each step can run either by temperature OR time. And it will automatically turn off the element when the final step is complete. The website has the instruction manual for it to look at.

Sounds good. But I am looking for a model number to a PID that has a ramp or be able two program to go to different temps at different times or from the temp of the meat

thanks

 

[Todd S]

If you put a weatherproof box on the back, put a two pole contactor inside, run a 4 wire 240v cord/plug (you need a neutral and ground as well as the two hots) you can use one leg as 120 to wire a weatherproof outlet attached to the side of the box (to power the PID, run a seperate cord out of the box through a gland (or 2 cords if you have a PID with a seperate smoke generator control) terminated in a male 120v plug to control the contactor out of the box, you can run whatever PID you want, and be able to take it back inside at the end of the day so it doesn’t get rained on.

Thank thank you. I am bringing in 240 VAC into my ne PID and have a SSR controlling 1 Leg if my heating element with two dry contacts to control my smoke and fan. I think I am going to use a neatly smoke smoke generator and am looking for input on a fan to be used to dry the fish and be used as a convection oven

 

[Todd S]

Thank thank you. I am bringing in 240 VAC into my ne PID and have a SSR controlling 1 Leg if my heating element with two dry contacts to control my smoke and fan. I think I am going to use a neatly smoke smoke generator and am looking for input on a fan to be used to dry the fish and be used as a convection oven

Oh wow my typing skills suck. I am going to use a Bratley smoke generator for smoke and want info on a fan to use

 

[Todd S]

Oh wow my typing skills suck. I am going to use a Bratley smoke generator for smoke and want info on a fan to use

Fat fingered and not proof reading. I am using a SSR to break and make one leg of the 240 VAC to my heating element. I am using two dry contact outputs of the controller to control a fan and a smoke generator

 

[bill1]

The beauty of electric smokers is that they need NO air to make heat. And you don't need much air to create smoke so no need to have a big fan. In fact, doesn't the Bradley biscuit mechanism have it's own fan? If not, does it possibly have an air path through it? That, and the modest hole in the top of a converted kitchen oven should be all the "draft" you need.

It sounds like you have the hardware you need but I just want to add something about the 2-pole contactor for split-phase power. It's true that for 240V equipment, putting a switch in EITHER the red or black leg will prevent current flow through the device, hence turning "it" off. But the other leg (without the switch) is then still energized downstream (at 120V) so that if you touch anything, there's a potential current path to ground through your body that can be deadly. So interrupting BOTH red and black is the only safe way of turning things off. For an exposed filament (like in an electric clothes dryer) it's very important you de-energize both legs. For an oven "element" (in a grounded case) it's not quite as dangerous, but all the wiring leading to it would still be energized if you didn't use a 2-pole switch.

Just thought that safety consideration worth mentioning.

 

[Jonok]

I know this thread is more than a month old but it’s important to reiterate that switching 240 (especially resistive loads) with only one leg is a bad idea. Furthermore, SSRs are apparently prone to failing in continuity, which is gonna result in a burnt up smoker unless you put in an over temp control.