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the switches are nothing more than low voltage contactors. The circuit is either open or closed, there is no in between. open will 100% result in an error message on the display and prevent the fan from operating.
the fan not continuing to operate above 500° is not a faulty switch.
You have a...
i picked up some B&B and ran them with the new grate I ordered from masterbuilt on the 1050 over the weekend. Ran start up , 11 hours on a brisket, and shut down, still had a 1/4 of a hopper left.
I get it that some people are not handy and don't have the tools, and that is o.k. it really is. But for God's sake, it is a standard 1/8" rivet that any man worth his nuts at least has a friend that can pop one in there in about 4 seconds.
DONT SNIP THE WIRES! They have a female connector on them. Take the two screws out remove the wire connections and tape them together until you get a new switch.
pop a couple rivets in it, make sure the wire connections are good and correctly connected. If it is a bad contactor switch, you could try spraying some contact cleaner or wd40 in it. If that doesn't do it, file a warranty claim and in the meantime, take it out and tape the connectors together...
I am not sure why he was surprised the right side was slightly cooler. It is exactly what I expected when he double up the deflector instead of cutting it.
Just ordered the redesigned grate. Seriously considering this heat shield. I can throw this in the dishwasher & I like this concept...
I don't have a pic of it but I have a grate in the ash bin to elevate the wood out of the ash but it is not a grate that will really stop partially burnt coals from falling through it.
yesterday I tried something new. I put 8 or ten briqs in the bin under the grate and lit them. I then lit the...
Dollars to donuts the switch failed or stuck and the fan was going full bore. Not an ideal situation but I have had the hopper open at 500° to add more fuel. I was going for a reverse sear and the temp stalled. That is how I figured out you have to have around 1/3 of a hopper of charcoal to get...
speaking of dirty smoke. something just crossed my mind after i saw the grate in the mod thread. Anybody have any thoughts on whether or not you would get more complete combustion and consistently cleaner smoke the closer to the coal grate the wood is in the ash pan? My brain feels like physics...
that consumption is directly related to the temps you were running. Unlike cooking on a charcoal grill with direct heat, this is essentially indirect heat so to get to 500° + you will eat it up.
There is also a shutdown factor. That is the one thing i really can't figure out how to get my arms...
agree with 912. you want at least 4-6 inches of coals before the first chunk otherwise the potential is there to start the cook with dirty smoke. I put a chunk on the grate in the ash bin from the beginning and get it started with a torch.
Mine leaked from the get go and tightening the latch almost made it worse. Too much pressure on the front kind of raised the back. There is a sweet spot for latch tightness.
The main thread is huge now and it would take one a long time to sort through it for answers. Now that we have all had these things for a year or so, I would like to do a reset thread to discuss the mods only.
Please list the mods you have done and the pros and cons of each now that you have a...
so what is the consensus on the best hopper lid replacement gasket?
I replaced mine with lavalock but it was the 1/2" x 1/8". actually leaked worse so i added a layer of foil again. was thinking about ordering 3/4"x1/4". Thoughts?
that is kind of a loaded question. the 1050 is superior to the 560. better overall construction in general, but the main components are the same, unless they have changed some things that they are not listing on their site.
I think the 980 may be a superior product to the 1050 at this point...