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Just over two years later and this thing gets blasted and a couple coats of high temp bbq paint.
Here's a few pics for those interested.
Definitley made some memories with this thing and thanks to this forum made a new friend.
So here's how I would build it.
Firebox 20"W x 18"L x 18"H
Exhaust 4" x 26"
Intake 3" x 8" (1)
The firebox cutout on the cook chamber would be 6.5" up and 7" (or to the weld seam) in from the end ( let me know if there is a huge difference in the 7" or the location of the weld seam, probably...
The appearance of a smoker is a huge part of the build process for me, so with that said I wouldn't build it with a width less than the diameter of the tank in this case 20"
In your drawing above you referenced 12"depth and the only potential issue I foresee would be the heat control ability...
Based on the dimensions given and my build experience with 7 reverse flow builds, I would probably go with 4" exhaust pipe for a shorter overall height.
Aesthetically speaking and for overall performance, I've noticed if your exhaust is much more than the cook chambers diameter it tends to cool...
If I recall that tank is probably close to 18" in diameter, I've always used a rule of thumb that my exhaust won't exceed the tank diameter in length.
Using that rule you should have a 3.5" pipe at 18" long, my guess is that your chimney may be to long and narrow to promote the temps that your...
From your last reply, when you add new wood give it 1-2 minutes of burn time where you can see a fire on the new log, before closing the firebox door again. that method seems to work for me to minimize the extra white smoke.
I don't recall reading if you mentioned the size of pipe used for that exhaust. What's the size and length of it?
That is usually where my bottleneck occurs.
Read this build I did, it should help you with some of the things your thinking about.
http://www.smokingmeatforums.com/t/159699/25-gal-perfect-patio-reverse-flow-smoker
It's a quick thread so if you have any questions about specifics just ask and I'll help anywhere I can.
just a size note, the...
I helped someone via email/text build this 500 providing nothing more than advice on how to spend his money.
He decided to build the doors like that so they would also serve as shelves when opened.
If your considering an ash pan drawer for easy clean up you'll add to the height but don't consider that extra in your math.
I'd go with the 22x18x18 for 2 reasons, it will maintain symmetry with the tank and look better in the end. The other reason would be that I'd use the bottom 2 inches of...
When I decided on the 22" diameter there were a few things that came to mind.
1) I can build the CC and Baffleplate from a single sheet of 4x8
2) I can build the firebox from a second sheet and have approx 30" left over for misc projects I may decide on
3) If the CC door is 25% +1" I will have...
Good to know that was a memorable build. I've received alot of comments and questions from that 250 build.
If you search Google Images for "Reverse flow smoker" 2 of my 5 builds appear on the first page of images.Thumbs Up
So I have some ideas in mind which is why i picked up the steel I did.
I got a 4x8 sheet of 1/4" plate and had it sheared at 69" then rolled into a cylinder with a (you guessed it) 22" diameter X 48" long.
So my big question is this:
If you were building this for personal use (and material...
I always put the seam somewhere between the bottom & back side of the CC.
If you think of the end view as a clock the CC door would be 12 - 3+1" and the seam qould be somewhere between 6-9.
The only other thing I would consider would be the location of your holes in the endcap of the tank, if...
There is 3" between each shelf, removing the middle gives 7" clearance on top and bottom for any large cuts.
I'm estimating I can cook up to 9 racks of St. Louis Spare Ribs or 8 Butts or 6 racks and 4 Butts.
The size of each shelf gives me 684"sq bottom, 660"sq middle, 564"sq top.
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