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Final width was @ 46" (42" of grill space) I used some of the leftover 3/16"x4" flat stock from the expansion to put in a center support to hold the weight of the pig and to make a wall on top of the RF plate to form a water basin.

Why thank you, sir!

If the cops ask you to testify, I'd recommend you do it. It'll keep the little douchebags off the street FAR longer. Congrats on getting most of your truck back though! Maybe you'll get a free paint job out of it...?

Ah, Jebus man... Freaking thieves. Listen to the prior posts, man. Don't let the insurance lowball you. Lawyer up if you can.(My neighbor did and saved himself alot of time, money and stress)

Well... The VERY best thing is ceramic wool. [=http://store.rsifibre.com/][/] Which will run you about $400 for 12.5' x 2' x 2". You're probably better off using plain old mineral wool.[=http://m.grainger.com/search/ProductSearch_item?item=3BE69][/] That'll run you about $67 for a piece 50" x 2'...

Oops, I should note: You can keep the springs if you build a pin into the firebox/axle connection. Something like this maybe?

Looks great so far! I ran into the same problems designing the Buffalo. I started with a Harbor Freight trailer similar to yours, but by the end of it I'd modified everything out but the springs and light kit. You're going to have to decide if you REALLY want that center-mounted fire box because...

It wouldn't fit my rear-facing model, but if somebody wants to run with this, I'll donate the sword and toss in a horned helmet for good measure! THIS PROJECT NEEDS TO HAPPEN!

Now that I'm thinking about it, a viking longboat theme would be great for one of the longer barbecues. Picture the dragon's head prow jutting up from the front of the tank, round shields along the side...

That's a pretty good question. I'm wondering now; What kind of steel do burner manufacturers use? I'm guessing 316...? Extensive, years-long comparative metallurgy isn't my idea of fun, so if someone would just kindly tell me what to build it out of I'll make it happen. Mind you, I'm still...

I adapted it to fit a small propane bottle so it can actually be carried somewhere. (Probably a horrible idea.) It's just a shell of 18guage sheet steel shaped like a sword. If I swing it too fast, the flame goes out. If I let it rest point down, the flames crawl up the handle and burn the cr#p...

Thanks Mike. I used a 0-60psi pressure regulator from tractor supply. ($20) The ring on the valve stem locks the dial in whatever position I want. On a pipe burner(or on this one at least) there's only so much range you can get before you have to rethink your orifice sizes and/or manifold...

That, sir, is badass. Now lessee some cookin' !

I'd recommend moving the axle over the springs to start with. That'll drop your frame about 3 inches and it'll ride more stable. You could put a storage box on the tongue of the frame and that'll counterbalance the firebox.

Why thank you! I finally got it to stay below 250°f at low fire and stay lit, so except for some drip shields over the pipe burner, it should be ready to go!

Note: I'm assuming that there will be some back-pressure inside the smoker, so the flames should burn a tad more rich once inside. I'll be checking it all through the install.

The guts: The assembly: I started with a .045 MIG tip screwed into the little cap on the 1/4" pipe nipple screwed into the 1"cap screwed to the pipe... (Low fire/High fire) Switched to .035 tip: Drilled two of the four 1/4" holes in the cap up to 5/16": Looks good to me!

Here's where I found it:http://www.hobartwelders.com/weldtalk/showthread.php?28224-pipe-burner-build-instructions&s=06026a6719bbe3dcaf47791f59f1bc4d

Thanks Al! I had an idea for installing a pipe burner or two under the RF plate for extra-long cooks(You know, after the four hour mark when the meat really doesn't gain anything more from the smoke) allowing me to switch to propane, set it and forget it for the rest of the cook. Something...