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I put in the needlevalve to add a PID to it so I can control the temperature better. The problem with gas is the lowest the temperature can go is about 110*. I am in the planning stages to convert mine to an electric unit. Then the temperature can go as low as you want.
...water tray, and not have water in it. If I need moisture I would put water in a stainless loaf pan. I'm not certain there will be enough draw. I have a needlevalve on my smoker and can get as low as 110* but that's still a little too hot. If I need more draw, I thought about using two tubes.
I try and source most stuff locally to help out small business owners. I just posted that regulator from Ebay for the photo. There is a small hardware store near my house that has the exact same one I posted. If it does not work out I will try the folks in the link ya posted. Thanks.
I have the same smoker as do others on here. That is how I smoke. Turn on the main control , leave on high and adjust with your new needlevalve.
I received my help from @OldSmoke for my needlevalve set up, as Randy has done major Mods on his and he knows better than I.
here is a link to his...
...deal of time talking with me and texting pictures back and forth to put together the little rig I needed. It is basically an in-line needlevalve as OldSmoke and bikerbob have suggested, but since the hose that came with the smoker has a 5/16" inner diameter, I also needed two adapters to fit...
...a lot of time talking with me and texting pictures back and forth to put together the little rig I needed. It is basically an in-line needlevalve as OldSmoke and bikerbob have suggested, but since the hose that came with my smoker has a 5/16" inner diameter, I also needed two adapters to fit...
I would like better gas control here is the summer it gets to be fun challenge to try and keep it in the low and slow range when I am doing Butts. And since mine is on the East side of the house for now I get a fair amount of solar heating of the cabinet.
...The basic design was ok though, and my only real improvement was as above, and the addition of a much higher output air pump with a needlevalve and a couple of air inlet ports rather than one so that I could avoid producing billowing white smoke on startup, as well as a removable tray on the...
...to be a few holes drilled in the bottom to draw air from to carry it into the smoker.
The smoker with the mailbox attached.
Some smoke entering the smoker.
The needlevalve is somewhat better then the valve that comes on the unit, but not tremendous. That's where the solenoid comes into...
...the diagonal from middle of front to middle of the side is longer. If I did this the valve would have to be on the side.
I'm working on a different plan to wrap around the corner with a 90 degree fitting on both the solenoid side and the bypass side. Then the needlevalve will be on the front.
If you are referring to constantly having to adjust the temp, Have you installed a needlevalve in your gas line? I should have done this on my GOSM generations ago!!
...the past 12 years or so have been converted to propane, even the new one I just built a few weeks ago. If you install a micro adjustable needlevalve you can dial the temp in to exactly what you want and it'll pretty much sit there all day. All you need is a steel rack above the burner to set...
I really need to look into this upgrade on the SV. I also thought about using a couple of charcoal briquettes and placing the wood on them like the snake method in a kettle.
Below is a universal flame out device.....
Propane IN...
Propane OUT....
Thermocouple.....
Needlevalve goes on the port that goes to the burner..
Stop in at a propane distributor and ask them....
The thermocouple sensor is installed so it is in a flame of the burner... when it gets...
...Spring and fall though it’s too much horsepower, so I switch to the same burner you posted. I tried a low pressure regulator and needlevalve. That didn’t work, so am currently running a high pressure with needlevalve. It works, but I’ll be switching burners for the turkey fryer in a couple...
...put the screws in in steps. The current low end is 140* if I use the valve that comes on the unit. I can get it down to 120* using the needlevalve I added for the gas manifold. I want it to be safe down to say 90*. First attempt I will add 5 screws at every 11th hole. Depending on the...
Thats what i'm doing. But it has to go into a tee, there has to be a route that does not go through the solenoid that has the needlevalve. It is used for the minimal flow of gas to keep the light on and if I want to cook without the solenoid.
The flare and hose with a barb fitting take up...
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