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It sounds like your plate isn't welded to the smoker. Take it out. Here's one approach I used once (although my warp was a potato chip warp and yours is apparently an even dome): It helped that I'd cut a 13" circle out of the center, made it easier to bend. But mine was 3/8" thick and I...

If your temps dropped after you sealed your door then your stack is not drawing enough and yes, you need a bigger stack.

Oh, and rent an engine hoist to pick up your firebox and fit it to your cooker.

...All the thin tanks I've cut into moved after door cutout, no matter how I did the cutout. And the thick tank (3/8" wall) I did recently didn't move *at all* when I cut in the doors. Anyway, that's what I think, YMMV. A patio smoker has to be able to roll around, which means you need some...

Two inches is fine.

In the end I put one pair of grates where the tank was widest, and another pair about 3" below that. The lower pair of cooking grates can hold racks of ribs or it can hold drip pans or the like.

One way to put a bit more bend into one end of a door that doesn't close fully (i.e. isn't bent enough or sprung out when cut) is to tack a turnbuckle to the top and bottom edges, and then tighten it up to bend more. It will spring back some so overdo it just a bit. You can also loosen the...

Did one of these recently. The first step is to know where the top of your tank is. Most tanks are rolled and welded where the edges meet. I generally lay out and centerpunch a line down the center of that longitudinal weld, and call that the top of the smoker. Next step is to orient the tank so...

I went to a lot of trouble once to make a 2-layer insulated firebox. It was fun to figure out how to do it, but it added a lot of complexity. My goal was to make it more comfortable to stand near the firebox during a summer cook. The firebox worked exceptionally well but it still got quite warm...

In Seattle? Instant rust if left outside .. the only reason I'll have space in my shop for it this winter is I'll be in Mexico. I do agree it looks really rugged without paint.

...with hole saws into a misery. But the pain will soon recede. A good thing about it is the doors didn't move any when I completed the cuts. Not *any*. I didn't have to do any of the normal tweaking to get the doors to hang right after cutting them out. Last time I built a smoker (blog is...

Price must be in yen.

The tank sits on the smoker truck nicely. Moving it around, I'm certainly glad I added steering to the build! seattlepitboss

Just wanted to post one more picture to show how the wheels are steered. First steering mechanism I've made. I'll start a proper build thread soon. seattlepitboss

Here you can see them. These are the axles they will be used on, but the axles are not cut to length. seattlepitboss

Hate to disappoint, but I decided against using the wheels. I already sold them to a guy in my metalworking club. I am fabricating my own wheels. The rims are made from 1/4x2" flat formed into 12" circles. The hubs are cut from 2-1/2" round hot rolled. I am using 5 spokes per wheel each 4-7/16"...

That's a great point. But the patio where it will go is paved with bricks. I'm actually contemplating making some rustic looking steel wheels quite a bit larger, like 15-18" diameter.

I'm designing a horizontal offset around an 80 gallon air tank. This is not going onto a trailer. It will be on wheels in a yard, hardly ever moving. I restore machine tools as a hobby and a side benefit of that is I have a couple of pairs of flat wheels from the old overhead line shaft days...

A friend recently offered me the choice of 3 air tanks. These are heavy, 3/8" wall everywhere (shell and end caps). They're all 80 gallon tanks. I don't like a smoker body to have lots of extraneous fittings welded to it. Air tanks have lots of fittings, though - inspection ports, air inlet...

I vote for two doors simply because opening a smaller door lets out less heat. If the tank has a thick wall, a big door can be very heavy (that's why guys build in counterweights). seattlepitboss